Trac-bar bolt sheered off

[Brad Klammer]

Was installing a lift yesterday and I went to take my trac-bar off and sheered the head of the bolt off...:flamemad:

I've read two threads on here where people have used a sawzall to cut the bolt on either side on the bracket, and another used a angle grinder.

Question, with a new trackbar does it bolt into that same bracket? When you buy a new trackbar do they send you new hardware? Im thinking it might be an excuse to upgrade my trac-bar?

To me that bracket seems like a design flaw as it's so hard to get at... I know that's the purpose of the nut with the plate welded to it but...

 

[jeepster_259]

yeah, adj. trackbars bolt into that same bracket. there are track bar drop brackets that can be bought as well.

If you think getting that side of the track bar out was difficult, in my case, the frame side mount was a nightmare.

Took me 6 hours, a grinder, a plasma cutter, a drill and a few broken bits, hammer, broken vice, and a bent grade 8 bolt to get that f'er out. The bolt from the track bar end just would not come out of the bracket and I finally had to literally melt it out with the plasma cutter and then redrill the hole. Never again will I do that!

 

[squirrel80]

Unbolt the stock trackbar and bracket and throw it away. Then get the RE Extreme duty bracket, brace and trackbar and put it on. Problem solved.

 

[Brad Klammer]

How do I unbolt the stock bracket?

 

[Brad Klammer]

yeah, adj. trackbars bolt into that same bracket. there are track bar drop brackets that can be bought as well.

If you think getting that side of the track bar out was difficult, in my case, the frame side mount was a nightmare.

Took me 6 hours, a grinder, a plasma cutter, a drill and a few broken bits, hammer, broken vice, and a bent grade 8 bolt to get that f'er out. The bolt from the track bar end just would not come out of the bracket and I finally had to literally melt it out with the plasma cutter and then redrill the hole. Never again will I do that!

I think we're talking about the same bolt, the bottom bracket where it bolts to the frame right? Do you need a special tool to get the top mount off?

 

[ChiXJeff]

Brad, are you talking about the axle end bracket, or the frame end bracket?

The axle end bracket is welded to the axle tube, you can't unbolt it.

The frame end bracket has 2 bolts that go up through the unibody into a couple of weldnuts, and there are 2 bolts that go in through the side from the wheelwell.

Most replacement trackbars will use the stock axle end bracket. Some replacements will use the stock frame end bracket, some require modification of the stock frame end bracket, and some replace the frame end bracket completely. The stock frame end bracket does limit droop pretty significantly, the modified brackets usually turn the joint 90 degrees so that droop isn't limited.

 

[squirrel80]

Sorry I was thinking the top bracket. Yeah that bottom bolt will screw you. You could cut that bracket off too but it would require welding to fix that. I changed all my mount when I put my truss on. I will let someone with experience on the stock mount chime in.

 

[jeepster_259]

I think we're talking about the same bolt, the bottom bracket where it bolts to the frame right? Do you need a special tool to get the top mount off?

I'm talking about the top bracket that bolts to the frame. The bottom bracket that bolts to the axle shouldn't be too hard to get the bolt out. Word of advice: it's a lot easier with two people. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth until the bolt just slides out. Do the same when installing another bolt. Makes it a 5 min. job to take it on/off.

The frame mount is another story though. Like I said, with mine, getting the trackbar end bolt out of there was the nightmare. I had to unbolt the bracket from the frame to do all my mutilation to finally get the sucker out.

I installed a pro comp adj. trackbar, and that one uses a heim joint instead of a ball joint at that end to allow more articulation. It resuses the same brackets though, but did require me to drill out the frame mount hole a little bit more to fit a 5/8" bolt.

 

[Brad Klammer]

Sorry guys, a bit confused. Yes I'm talking about the lower axle bracket (left side of truck if looking at the grill). The bolt head that is visable from the front of the truck, sheered off. I'm looking at the hole with a sheered off bolt. Turning the steering wheel wont help because that nut on the backside has such little room to move and therefore there is no way the bolt would have room to back out. I will use that trick when re-installing it though.

I guess I wont really have to take the bracket off, just somehow get the broken bolt out and put in a new bolt.

I guess the only way to tighten it properly is with that special nut that has plate welded on it so it doesn't turn right? I haven't check with the dealership yet but I've heard they don't sell those anymore... if so, what are my options?

When they sell you a new trackbar, do you they supply you with that axle end 15mm bolt and the special nut?

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Get an easy out kit from a parts store and back it out using that. From what it sounds like you have the removable nut plate for the bolt right? if you do that means the bracket is open at the botton and you can just use a grade 8 bolt and nut with some lock tight.

 

[Hudson Bend]

Problem one is getting the broken bolt out of there. First try to extract using available extractors. If the flanged nut is too rusted to release using this method, then I would pry the bracket apart just enough to get a metal blade in between the track bar end and the back wall of the bracket and cut the bolt to allow the removal of the bar. You should then be able to get the flanged nut and remaining bolt piece out the back hole. Check out your nearest JY for a used replacement off a wrecker or fab up your own using grade 8 hardware. You could even fab up a flanged nut replacement as well.

 

[Brad Klammer]

Yes there is a tiny opening from the bottom... don't even know if a box end wrench would fit in there...

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[stumpXJ]

If the bolt head itself sheared off, an easy-out wont do squat, if it was that seized to begin with to cause the head to shear off. I think what he is saying is that the rest of the bolt portion is still going through the trackbar and into the nutplate. Aside from cutting the outer portion of the bracket off of the axle, allowing the trackbar and remaining bolt/nut to come out of the front, not sure what else you could do.

To the OP, when I got my Clayton adj track bar and drop bracket, they had me use my stock bolt and nut plate. Not sure about other manufacturers though.

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

don't even know if a box end wrench would fit in there...

It should if not cut it open little more. An east out kit should work if you drill the initial hole deep enough

 

[Brad Klammer]

If the bolt head itself sheared off, an easy-out wont do squat, if it was that seized to begin with to cause the head to shear off. I think what he is saying is that the rest of the bolt portion is still going through the trackbar and into the nutplate. Aside from cutting the outer portion of the bracket off of the axle, allowing the trackbar and remaining bolt/nut to come out of the front, not sure what else you could do.

Bingo. The bolt head is sheered off, but the bolt is still going through the tackbar with the nut on the end. I think my only option is to sawzall on either side of the trackbar, pull the TB down, and pray that the nut and little piece of bolt can fit out the little hole... What a clusterf#$%

Not mention my sway-bar bolt also sheered off so I either need an endlink or now's a good excuse to get JKS disco's (which is what I did )

The good news is I'm sitting at 21" in the back after a BB

 

[jeepster_259]

once you do get it out, you don't need a special nut. Just get a regular nut. a wrench will fit into the hole. That's what I did. I think I had to get a slightly shorter bolt than stock though, otherwise I couldn't get the wrench back out when it was tightened. I may be mistaken, but I think a 2.5" long bolt was what I used.

 

[Brad Klammer]

Sweet, thanks. So a 2.5" long bolt by 10mm I think... lock tite, a regular nut and I'm good to go. Thanks guys.

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Sweet, thanks. So a 2.5" long bolt by 10mm I think... lock tite, a regular nut and I'm good to go. Thanks guys.

yeah either lock-tite or a nylock nut.

 

[Brad Klammer]

Update, my dealership did in fact carry the capture nut so I picked one of them up. They didn't have the bolt, nor did they know the size so I think I'll go with 10mm x 635mm.

Also bought the JKS quicker disconects which will go in tonight hopefully.

 

[ChiXJeff]

That's also a *VERY* hard bolt. Be warned that trying to tighten a 10.9 rated bolt to the OEM spec will twist off the bolt at the root of the threads.

It'd also be a good idea to make sure you've got a good snug fit on both holes in the bracket. If the holes are egged out, think about welding a hard washer over the front at least.