Towing my jeep on a trailer with my 1500?

[Motoxic2]

I noticed theres not much attention in the "rig" section so i fig i throw it in here, i have a 2000 ram1500 with a5.9l i tow my xj with it on a car dolly but i would like to upgrade to a full size trailer but not sure if my truck could handle the extra weight when pulling the hills to get to rausch creek in pa. What trailers would you guys suggest? (Lightest,best weight handling) also i have thought about modding a boat trailer if i have to with a deck and what not so let me know what you guys think also 1200 is my max budget at this point

 

[mako my day]

What the tow rating of your truck?

 

[xjtrailrider]

No shorter than 16', i prefer 18' for an XJ. Wood floor might be slightly lighter than metal.

My XJ, with tools/spares/armor, and trailer weighs in at 4500# on a 19' trailer.

I suggest a equalizing hitch and a stabilizing bar. I have brakes on both axles. I use a Prodigy controller.

I tow with my Hemi Commander and it does just fine. The XK's tow rating is 7400#

 

[Johnnie Walker]

The Magnum 360 should do just fine. I used to pull 5-7k-ish with my 92 dakota with a 318.

 

[xjtrailrider]

My XJ, with tools/spares/armor, and trailer weighs in at 4500# on a 19' trailer.

I meant 6500# trailer and Jeep

 

[1989TwoDoor]

I tow an XJ on an 18' trailer with a 2000 Silverado 1500. It does fine. It has 3.73 gears. I sure wouldn't want to tow with anything less than 3.73 gears without being a diesel. My truck has the "Tow/Haul" mode that really helps as well. Good luck, I am sure glad XJ's don't have frames....

 

[freerider15]

For $1200, you're not likely to find a trailer that you would want to trust towing your XJ with.

Even building from scratch...$1200 ain't going to cut it unless you get some things for cheap to free.

I know some guys like to "cheap out" on trailers...but to me how much are you willing to risk?

Saving a thousand or two...when you're towing $10k plus worth of vehicle isn't worth it IMO.

Truck should be fine to tow it with (depending on what the XJ is like)...but I wouldn't tow without a trailer that have trailer brakes on BOTH axles and a good working brake controller.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I wouldn't worry about the extra weight or the weight distributing hitch. A balanced load will go a long ways. An 18' trailer is a good length if you are just going to pull the jeep. Follow the tow vehicle specs. Don't exceed tongue weight rating. Having a scale to weigh things is handy. Get a drop hitch that is actually rated for the job. Remember tow ratings are limited to the most limiting component. If your 1" shank 2" trailer ball is good for 5k# then that is the most your trailer can weigh. 2-straps per axle will keep you legal in all states. Do you have an auto transmission? If you do get a beefier cooler and an accurate temp gauge for it.

My thought is save up a bit more then buy a solid trailer. Something with a channel frame not angle iron frame. Also handy is a jack-stand type foot at the back of the trailer so you don't stress the tongue when loading/unloading.

 

[ladywolf]

I noticed theres not much attention in the "rig" section so i fig i throw it in here, i have a 2000 ram1500 with a5.9l i tow my xj with it on a car dolly but i would like to upgrade to a full size trailer but not sure if my truck could handle the extra weight when pulling the hills to get to rausch creek in pa. What trailers would you guys suggest? (Lightest,best weight handling) also i have thought about modding a boat trailer if i have to with a deck and what not so let me know what you guys think also 1200 is my max budget at this point

Start hunting Craigslist or pirate. Sometimes you can find a good deal. I bought one for 800 bucks from another guy off a different jeep club

 

[foxwar71]

Check out these guys in PA as well. http://www.econotrailer.com/ I have the shorter open trailer. I've yet to find a lighter car trailer, its sub 1500# easy. I only have a 7k and, even with my pig of a jeep, I can still pull it off since the trailer is so light. I'm probably around 6500 loaded. I bought mine a couple of years old for under $1500. Its a great/cheap/light trailer for use behind 1/2T's and gassers.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I wouldn't worry about the extra weight or the weight distributing hitch. A balanced load will go a long ways. An 18' trailer is a good length if you are just going to pull the jeep. Follow the tow vehicle specs. Don't exceed tongue weight rating. Having a scale to weigh things is handy. Get a drop hitch that is actually rated for the job. Remember tow ratings are limited to the most limiting component. If your 1" shank 2" trailer ball is good for 5k# then that is the most your trailer can weigh. 2-straps per axle will keep you legal in all states. Do you have an auto transmission? If you do get a beefier cooler and an accurate temp gauge for it.

My thought is save up a bit more then buy a solid trailer. Something with a channel frame not angle iron frame. Also handy is a jack-stand type foot at the back of the trailer so you don't stress the tongue when loading/unloading.

I prefer chains. I chain the rear axle "front to back" and pull the jeep forward to where I want it to ride and until the rear chains are tight. I then "cross" the front chains and dog them down but not too tightly, just snug. The XJ won't move at all

 

[Phil]

Trailers are neglected more than XJs. Save up a bit more and buy a new one you can neglect yourself, or budget for a complete overhaul of whatever you buy.

Oh yeah, I have a 16' or 18' wood deck, 7,000#, angle steel frame car hauler, but a 2009 Ram 1500 with the Hemi. Works great.

 

[WildernessJeep]

Trailer brakes are a must. I use chains for front to back, and then cross the back bumper with an "X" of straps to keep the sway down. I tow a big trailer with no other mods to the Yukon. The trailer brake controller is an absolute blessing. I towed this setup around Colorado for a month with no issues. Watch your transmission temperature.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I don't have any sway issues so I don't strap the bumpers. I just chain the axles.

19' trailer. Both axles have brakes, Valley equalizing hitch, Valley stabilizing bar, and Prodigy controller. The trailer has a all metal floor and winch.

I tow with my Hemi Commander with no struggles at all, in fact its very comfy and never feels out of control.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Everyone keeps mentioning prodigy controllers... get one! They are awesome and can really help with trailer control. Also brakes on both axles is nice but properly functioning brakes on one axle will work fine. If you can get something with torsion axles like dexter tor-flex's then you will be stylin'. I have some and DAMN they are a dream to pull. Also nice low deck height. Even with long ramps I still had a hell of a time getting a dead mitsu eclipse with a body kit onto my low low trailer...

Also, plan to at least pull the hubs and brakes off and check the bearings and brakes. Read the manual for torque specs on whatever brand axles you end up with. For example on my trailer when I remove the hubs I have to apply 50 ft-lb of torque to the spindle nut while spinning the hub. Then keeping the hub completely stationary I take all the torque off the spindle nut and hand tighten it until it lines up with the cotter pin holes. This sets the bearings but trailers do not run much of any preload on the bearings. You should plan to do a full hub service at least once a year. If you pull it more than 10-12k miles a year do it every 6-months. Much easier to maintain the hubs than replace them. Cheaper too!

Also I recommend keeping the tire pressure up to the max whenever it is in use. Also check the lug nuts before every trip, no matter what! trailer lugs are notorious for loosening. I don't want to elaborate on how I learned this the hard way. Lets just say I spent half an hour gridding the highway in front of arches NP looking for a set of 8-lug duals that decided they were ready for a break...

When you do replace the trailer tires remember a few things... first "st" trailer tires are only rated for 65mph no matter what your state laws are on towing speed. They have a 3-year warranty and if you can take them back with safety related damage before they explode into little bits you will get a new tire for free usually. Also trailer tires are designed to only be ran with the maximum inflation. Even if you are way under the load rating running them with less pressure degrades the sidewall integrity over time faster than max inflation does. Knowing what I know now... I would get a set of load-rated "lt" tires. They are speed rated and will last longer. Also safer.

 

[in4aride]

my 98 ram is not very happy towing with the 3.55's and anything other than a car dolly. granted it is on larger tires.
But with the flatbed it was horrible. My old 89 chevy pulled way better and was more "planted" I am a mile up so power is hurting a bit, but being gas and stock gears brought the suck.. just my .02

 

[1989TwoDoor]

Trailer brakes are a must. I use chains for front to back, and then cross the back bumper with an "X" of straps to keep the sway down. I tow a big trailer with no other mods to the Yukon. The trailer brake controller is an absolute blessing. I towed this setup around Colorado for a month with no issues. Watch your transmission temperature.

X2