• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

TOOLS - Need advice picking quality Electric Drill

I'm thinking this is a great deal I should jump on:
$89 + shipping!

Amperage:8RPM:0 - 850Chuck Size:1/2-inChuck Type:KeyedVoltage:120VCord:8-ft FixedLength:12-13/64-inWeight:5.4 lbs.Shipping Weight:5.9 lbs.Max. Capacity - Wood (Auger):1-1/2-inMax. Capacity - Steel (Hole Saw):2-inMax. Capacity - Wood (Self-Feed):2-9/16-inGear Reduction:DoubleSpindle Size:1/2-in-20Handle Style:pistol-GripNo. of Batteries Included:Corded
milr0299-80.jpg


http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/factory-reconditioned-milwaukee-0299-80-1-2-in-magnum-drill--0-850-rpm-with-keyed-chuck/milr0299-80,default,pd.html?start=3&cgid=milwaukee-drills-and-hammer-drills&prefn1=voltage&prefv1=120%20AC%20Only%7c120V
I've had this drill for a few years now. I have absolutely zero complaints and would change nothing about it. It's done everything I've asked for without the slightest sign of wearing out, getting hot, etc. It's got a nearly unreasonable amount of torque and can (and has) ripped itself right out of my hands.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D21002-Amp-8-Inch-Drill/dp/B00006JSPJ

I gave this one to my father for Christmas. We tried it out on a few things and it's probably the best 3/8 corded drill either one of us has ever used. (I've never used a Milwaukee 3/8)

As far as cordless drills with keyless chucks go - Festool. A friend of mine own a marine electronics business and wears out Dewalts and their batteries every couple years. He invested in the Festool one and didn't look back. I got the chance to use it for a project of mine and wow. I always hated cordless keyless chucked drills but this thing was awesome. Battery life was incredible, the chuck didn't slip, it had plenty of power and attachments, it was lightweight...
 
Last edited:
Anyone else get their drill? Mine came yesterday and I actually just un-boxed it. Looks pretty awesome and feels way more heavy duty than the craftsman professional drill I borrowed recently. Now I need some bits and to find something that needs drilling!

Thanks OP for the ebay heads ups.
 
Should I oil/grease the drill since it has been sitting for a long time. It has a sort of loud screeching that I at first though was normal but now thinking it could use some lube.
 
not sure what you would oil/grease except the main gears. but i doubt they are were the screeching is coming from. normally that would indicate a bearing drying out. those are (or used to be) sealed bearings like what you would find in a skateboard wheel. yes they can still dry out and you can remove the bearing, use a small pick tool and remove the rubber/plastic side cover and squeeze some grease in them. all of this of course would mean a complete disassembly of the drill motor. not that difficult to do, but with a new drill motor, it shouldnt be needed. if indeed a bearing is going out, the armature will get destroyed very quickly. do you see any sparks where the brushes contact the armature when useing the drill? that is a good indicator that the armature is loose and vibrating. if that is the case, i would see if you can return/exchange it.
 
I only see some small sparks like I see with any other drill/dremel I can't tell exactly where they are coming from.

I was just messing around with it some more and it seems to have quieted down a lot after running it a bit. The sound also seems to be coming from the back of the drill where the brushes are.

Now it's mostly noticeable when running the drill and letting off the trigger. It will free spin momentarily and make a sorta screechy sound although not loud at all now. I'm guessing it's normal, we'll see I guess. If it's a bearing I don't mind tearing it down to replace that if need be.
 
My drama program eats drill motors for breakfast. We are HARD on our drills. We've got 3 or 4 corded dewalts, right now, that are about 5 years old that get beat on and keep on going.

I bring my personal hitachi 1/2" keyed chuck, which I've had for about 10 years, to use for drilling pilot holes for carriage bolts and such. very good brand also.

We've killed all the black and deckers we've bought, as well as a few makita's.

Never owned a milwalkee, but it sounds like you picked up a good one, so I hope it's a good performer for you!
 
I got my drill in the mail. The post office tried to deliver it about 4 days ago but I wasn't paying attention and just picked it up today.

I have no screeching sound that you speak of. The drill itself had some oily residue (looked like rust preventative treatment) and the drill looked completely unused. The box itself had "$100" written on it in red permanent marker to imply it was purchased second-hand but never used (like a leftover warehouse lot). The chuck had minor flash-type rust on it but nothing to complain about or that would affect the longevity of the drill. The chuck was still in a sealed bag and it came with everything (chuck, chuck holder band, cord (still bound), user's manual, side handle and of course drill).

I have no regrets about buying this. One less thing I'll ever have to buy in the future, and this thing is supposed to be easily serviceable.
 
Got mine. It looks brand new.
 
That's great!

I just found a heavy duty Dewalt 7" grinder on Craigslist too! Hopefully the seller gets back to me. Having these tools on hand is such peace of mind when you run into a problem. Hopefully the seller appreciates my "helping hand"... haha
 
Careful there bud. A good rule of thumb is to by tools when I need hem and not before.
 
I disagree, its always good to jump on a good deal if its something you will need in the future instead of paying more when you need it, as long as you have the money
 
I'm not taking sides here and agree that no one likes to have to go buy a tool not on hand when you need it. However, in the grand scheme of things I have found over the years that buying tools just because I think I might need them in the future often ends up being more or less a waste of money. That's why I spoke earlier about my buying the 1/2" Milwaukee drill as an impulse purchase. I have a $55.00 Dewalt 3/8" drill without a keyed chuck that I have owned and used on numerous and major home improvement projects and on the Jeep for over a decade. It has more than enough power and never let me down and still running strong. I have purchased some incredible used SK closed end wrenches with really long handles on ebay that I didn't need at the moment but have used over and over again. They are all basic tools. But I have also made a few tool purchases that I bought based on nothing more than a great price and rarely used them. I found a really nice set of 3/8" stubby SK sockets with u-joints attached on ebay. They looked great for getting a socket into tight awkward places. I think I have used one of them once in ten years but could have found other ways to accomplish what I needed to do.

Like most of us I like tools and like fixing things otherwise I wouldn't be here. But personally I often just don't have the time or I'm just to tired to get off my _ss from a full day at work. My Dremel was another tool that I thought I would use over and over. Nope. I've used it once. My 15 year old has used it far more than I have so it hasn't been a waste.

While I could have phrased it better in my original post, beyond a basic tool set (that could be anyone's definition and mine has grown far beyond basic), for me purchasing ANYTHING based on a good price alone without a genuine immediate need means that the item will most likely end up just sitting collecting dust.
 
Last edited:
I would agree I wouldn't buy an odd ball tool or something I would never really use just because it is a good deal. I am a sort of deal junkie though I love getting stuff on sale although I don't buy used tools ever.
 
1 Year checking back in...

This drill is awesome. The chuck never slips, heavy duty, great for nearly all jobs (except for really tight spaces), and high torque.

Now if only I could find drill bits that last for a little while even when using lubricant.
 
I have had good luck with the Dewalt pilot point tip bits, and some DexIII in a syringe.

Edit: don't forget, you want the drill to spin as slowly as possible, and push straight on it, as hard as you can.
 
7" grinders are for grinding off large ammounts of material on large peices of steel.... Personally i wouldnt buy one for $20, as it would be one of those things you keep stored for years but never actually use. Doubt id ever use it on my jeeps or everyday shop use.... i dont do structural steel.

As far as drill bits, unless your drilling stainless or hardened materials, if your going thru a bunch of bits, its usually an operator issue, find the drill speed and feed pressure that works for what your drilling.
 
cheap drills (bits) are just that "cheap". buy expensive good quality drills from a machine shop supply house, or a good tool/harware store like Mcfadendales (might be CA only). also invest in a drill sharpener. i use an older style drill Dr. and it works awsome. a sharp drill will stay sharp longer. cheap drills are dulled fast because they get a little dull and you need to press harder and they just dull faster. Nationals, champion, are a couple brands that come to mind.
glad to hear your hole shooter is working good for you. definitely my favorite drill motor.
 
DeWalt or Milwaukee. Can't afford new? Buy used. A corded model will last you all your days, and has enough torque to break your hands off (the big 'uns will!) I have 2 old school (1950s? One had cloth cord insulation) Black and Decker drills, and I love them. I wouldn't trade them for a new BD drill if you made me.
 
1 Year checking back in...

This drill is awesome. The chuck never slips, heavy duty, great for nearly all jobs (except for really tight spaces), and high torque.

Now if only I could find drill bits that last for a little while even when using lubricant.
I have the same one (bought new at home depot though)... Worth every cent I paid, I have done all sorts of horribly abusive things to it and it just keeps going. It'll happily put a 1" augur through a nail filled 4x4 without even really slowing down.

For any real metal fab I use a drill press though, so much more accurate and you can apply more pressure with one hand on the quill feed than you ever will (while keeping the drill straight, anyways) with a hand drill.

As for drill bits, I beat the shit out of my Milwaukee black oxide coated HSS bits and haven't actually broken or severely damaged one yet. I have a 5/8" I accidentally left out in the yard for the entire winter that still cuts like it was new (and I only use it at high speed, cramming it through 1/2" steel plate) and my 1/2" bit has had at least four pieces of metal stock jammed on it, flopping around wildly in the drill press. Each time I end up using a hammer to straighten it back out til the point isn't wobbling and go back to using it, and it still works great.

Yes, I know I should clamp my work... takes too damn long when I have a million holes to drill.
 
Back
Top