Tools for WJ knuckle/brakes/steering @ JY

[J Pugh]

I plan to hit the pull a part tomorrow and I'd like to know what tools I need to bring to take all of this stuff apart. If someone remembers bolt/nut sizes and any special tools reqd that would be awesome. I know to bring a TRE puller at least.

I've read that the axle nut is pretty tough, so I'm bringing a torch and a 4ft pipe for a breaker bar. However, I don't know the size of the nut, so if anyone could please tell me, since I'll probably need to go buy the socket. I've been google-ing that but I've had mixed results. And please don't mess me up by telling me what you think it is and then I go and buy that size but you were wrong about it, thx.

Just trying to be prepared, and I like to carry a light toolbox out there.

Thanks.

 

[Matthew Currie]

I plan to hit the pull a part tomorrow and I'd like to know what tools I need to bring to take all of this stuff apart. If someone remembers bolt/nut sizes and any special tools reqd that would be awesome. I know to bring a TRE puller at least.

I've read that the axle nut is pretty tough, so I'm bringing a torch and a 4ft pipe for a breaker bar. However, I don't know the size of the nut, so if anyone could please tell me, since I'll probably need to go buy the socket. I've been google-ing that but I've had mixed results. And please don't mess me up by telling me what you think it is and then I go and buy that size but you were wrong about it, thx.

Just trying to be prepared, and I like to carry a light toolbox out there.

Thanks.

The axle nut, assuming it's the same as an XJ, is 36 mm. No guesswork here.

For the bearing unit bolts, make sure you have not only the correct 13 mm. 12 point socket, but a 1/2 inch as well. The 1/2 inch is just a wee bit tighter, requiring light hammering on, and can save your bacon if the bolts have been abused.

Needless to say, you should also bring a good big hammer to help you get those tie rods off (see recent threads on front end work if you're unfamiliar with what and where to hit). A good sized ball peen hammer or a small hand sledge will serve you well here.

Assuming you don't have power steering available to help you pop off the hubs, you should be prepared for getting the hubs out. They can rust in pretty well. Getting the initial looseness is the challenge, and you may have to beat on them a bit. A lead hammer can help here. Once you get even a little movement, you have won the battle, but it will go quicker if you have plenty of lubricant and perhaps a pry bar. If the hub is rusted in well, once you get a little movement outward, douse it with lubricant and then hammer it back in. Do this cycle a few times and it will come out more easily than if you just pull it out in one go. If you do beat on the back of the hub flange with a lead hammer, or use a slide hammer to pull it, keep the axle nut at least finger tight so that you don't pull the hub apart.

If for some reason you have trouble getting the axle nut off on site (for example if the vehicle is not on its wheels), remember that you can pull the hub and axle together.

 

[J Pugh]

Wow man, that's simply tremendous of you, thanks a lot. Unfortunately the wj there didn't have anything, but it will be nice to have this guide when I find one!

Thanks again.

 

[kastein]

really big socket for the lower balljoint. I forget what size it is, but it's slightly less than 30mm, and slightly larger than 27mm. I think it's an SAE size, guessing 1 1/8"? 30mm will round the nut off and anger you greatly. The upper is the same as an XJ, 7/8" I think? Might want to verify that.

Also bring a BFH for breaking the tapers loose - works on TREs, BJs, etc. Whack the side of the knuckle next to whatever taper you're trying to break loose (after removing the nut) and after a couple swings it should pop out.

Make sure you get the Akebono calipers and caliper brackets, they are better than Teves.