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To go to beadlocks or not, that is the question

in4aride said:
On tons on spring creek, sure who gives a rats ass.
On a 30 on carnage, critical.
Click to expand...

This.. Your not turning 28 psi 35" tires down the street, you're at 6-8 psi molding to rocks and gripping on anything it touches.

On a 8.25 and 30 locked on 35's, I would be on the thin line between OMF or TR beadlocks or no beadlocks at all...

Cotalltodd, go for broke and get the best beadlocks you can afford, its worth it. Just keep in mind you are going to get a lot of traction aired down to the beadlocks capabilities. My advice make your axle shafts your fusible link and carry spares.

Other wise your rig is going to look amazing with BL's!
 
Another thing on the brand name beadlocks is piece of mind. The trail ready ones hold air with no leakage, balance better, and have recessed bolt holes to keep you from breaking bolts off.

That 10lbs is also multiplied by 4 on your rig. I've ran DIY beadlocks, Allied Steel beadlocks? And Trail Ready Aluminum beadlocks. There is a big difference between all 3.

Trail only, I'd go DIY. Street rig, Trail Ready. I wouldn't waste my money on another set of Allied or similar steel ones.
 
Racelines get my vote, it's what I'm running on the buggy.


1-tonxj said:
my next tires will need beadlocks and I feel the super expensive wheels are a waste of cash other than the bling factor as trail readys get busted on the trail just like a simple set of DIY locks but the DIY cost less than just one TR beadlock wheel . I'm sure the expensive brands like TR may have better street manners than a DIY ,but if the rig is only 10% street I don't the benefit in the price of Bling .
Click to expand...

You think so eh?

There are reason's why those "bling" beadlocks cost more...because they truly ARE that much better. DIY and steel beadlocks, while usable, are not going to have the strength nor quality of those "bling" beadlocks.

I have personally see steel (both DIY and non) fail where those "bling" beadlocks took it like it was nothing.

There is a reason you see these "bling" beadlocks on everything from Ultra4 buggies, Unlimited and ProMod buggies, desert racers, etc.

Trying to say they are a waste of cash is a showing of ignorance...

DOM over HREW...does the same thing...waste of cash right?
Stock 1541M axles instead of 4340 or 300M...waste of cash right?
 
freerider15 said:
Racelines get my vote, it's what I'm running on the buggy.




You think so eh?

There are reason's why those "bling" beadlocks cost more...because they truly ARE that much better. DIY and steel beadlocks, while usable, are not going to have the strength nor quality of those "bling" beadlocks.

I have personally see steel (both DIY and non) fail where those "bling" beadlocks took it like it was nothing.

There is a reason you see these "bling" beadlocks on everything from Ultra4 buggies, Unlimited and ProMod buggies, desert racers, etc.

Trying to say they are a waste of cash is a showing of ignorance...

DOM over HREW...does the same thing...waste of cash right?
Stock 1541M axles instead of 4340 or 300M...waste of cash right?
Click to expand...

Actually the ignorance would be throwing money at parts that far exceed the use/need , So when I say a WASTE OF CASH don't get your panties in a bunch because I'm saying that it's waste of money for the application/use not that TR are not a better product than a home made beadlock . As for the rest of your post regarding tube I think HREW is plenty adequate for trail rig inner/exo cages ...both have seams and both are plenty strong and stiff if quality metal is used...lol...not going to go into why I laugh at the chat room DOM vs HREW debates ,but I do get a chuckle Now obviously chromo is better but neither one of us are building for NASCAR . Axle shafts would depend on the rig/tire size/axle in question/use ,but for an example a stock rear 60 with 40s could use an upgrade but a 14 bolt with 40s probably does not need 300m ouverson shafts ,and would be money wasted when other upgrades could be much more usefull first or just saving the cash vs spending cash on shafts that will probably outlast the rig ...you have to remember not everyone is building a comp buggy in their Mom and Dads garage , so "top of the line" is not always needed .
 
Since when are beadlocks street legal? I've seen a few comments about being street driven but the only DOT approved beadlock is the H1 rims. Or have I missed something.

I for one can't justify $350 per wheel for TR beadlocks even if it was a pure trail rig.
 
1-tonxj said:
Actually the ignorance would be throwing money at parts that far exceed the use/need , So when I say a WASTE OF CASH don't get your panties in a bunch because I'm saying that it's waste of money for the application/use not that TR are not a better product than a home made beadlock . As for the rest of your post regarding tube I think HREW is plenty adequate for trail rig inner/exo cages ...both have seams and both are plenty strong and stiff if quality metal is used...lol...not going to go into why I laugh at the chat room DOM vs HREW debates ,but I do get a chuckle Now obviously chromo is better but neither one of us are building for NASCAR . Axle shafts would depend on the rig/tire size/axle in question/use ,but for an example a stock rear 60 with 40s could use an upgrade but a 14 bolt with 40s probably does not need 300m ouverson shafts ,and would be money wasted when other upgrades could be much more usefull first or just saving the cash vs spending cash on shafts that will probably outlast the rig ...you have to remember not everyone is building a comp buggy in their Mom and Dads garage , so "top of the line" is not always needed .
Click to expand...

I don't see how putting money into aluminum bead locks is still waste of money for a trail rig. Buying something that is overall better, will last longer, and well...looks a hell of a lot better can be considered a waste of funds at all, whether you're full comp rig or a mild wheeler. Its NO different to me than someone who spends the coin to run RCV shafts on their D60...when they might never put anything over a 37" on there.

Maybe on your side of things it's a waste of cash to spend $1200 on beadlocks, me...nope.

"you have to remember not everyone is building a comp buggy in their Mom and Dads garage , so "top of the line" is not always needed."

I don't see anyone here building a comp buggy in their parents garage.

There's reason why my rig has taken so long to build. I like using high end parts, and don't like "cheaping" out. For me, using "lesser" parts would have always been in the back of my mind...and then I would have been mad at myself for not having spent some more money the first time around and been 100% happy.

It's all in the eye of the beholder...for they know what parts THEY truly don't want to have issues with. I've known enough people that have had issues with steel or weld on beadlocks, I chose to go another route. I was planning on doing weld-ons, but all the hassle of cleaning, welding, grinding, mounting...and praying it seals...not for me.
 
Metal Head said:
Since when are beadlocks street legal? I've seen a few comments about being street driven but the only DOT approved beadlock is the H1 rims. Or have I missed something.

I for one can't justify $350 per wheel for TR beadlocks even if it was a pure trail rig.
Click to expand...

Beadlocks are a gray area...not legal...but not exactly illegal anyhow.

Plenty...and I mean PLENTY of people drive their beadlocks on the street, even on their DD's.

Mine will see street time as well.

I understand someone not "justifying" spending $350 a wheel. Then again, others say they can't "justify" beefing up and putting chromo's in a D30.

Plenty of people have both...:laugh:
 
Meh. Who cares what any of us think. Real world experience for what he is asking is all te guy cares about. 1ton you don't run locks and do just fine. I needed locks to hold a bead at the pressures I needed to wiggle through the trails I was on with baby tires. I also liked bolts that extruded as they worked well for biting into some rocks on carnage that I otherwise wouldn't have been able to climb up (no hydro assist and jammed up tires meant only way to go up was on the bolts of the locks. And they worked awesome lol. So I spent $10 to replace the damaged bolts. Boo hoo)
Others have them but don't really use them and have road experience and seal ability experience.
Others for have them and should have.

It's not a dick contest from all of us. It's a simple question. Post your response and reasoning. He can shuffle through whose rig and application fits his best and make a decision. It's his rig much like both of yours are your rigs.
I see both sides, cheap parts and see what you can make happen.
And quality stuff to know you can get it home.
Where he falls in those categories is up to him.


Can't we all just get along :gee:

Btw you both suck cuz I don't even have a rig. ..!.. :D ..!..
 
in4aride said:
Meh. Who cares what any of us think. Real world experience for what he is asking is all te guy cares about. 1ton you don't run locks and do just fine. I needed locks to hold a bead at the pressures I needed to wiggle through the trails I was on with baby tires. I also liked bolts that extruded as they worked well for biting into some rocks on carnage that I otherwise wouldn't have been able to climb up (no hydro assist and jammed up tires meant only way to go up was on the bolts of the locks. And they worked awesome lol. So I spent $10 to replace the damaged bolts. Boo hoo)
Others have them but don't really use them and have road experience and seal ability experience.
Others for have them and should have.

It's not a dick contest from all of us. It's a simple question. Post your response and reasoning. He can shuffle through whose rig and application fits his best and make a decision. It's his rig much like both of yours are your rigs.
I see both sides, cheap parts and see what you can make happen.
And quality stuff to know you can get it home.
Where he falls in those categories is up to him.


Can't we all just get along :gee:

Btw you both suck cuz I don't even have a rig. ..!.. :D ..!..
Click to expand...


Not a pissing contest ...lol...just pointing out cheaper sensible options that could work vs $1500 set of wheels that could be damaged just like the cheaper option , and I have seen cracked trail readys ,which considering I only see a few of them VS DIY style locks all day long says to me that the cost to benefit ratio is just not there . For myself I've not needed beadlocks B/C I run 18 inch wde tires on a 10 wide rim ...lol...that bead is going nowhere even at under 5psi unless I rip the bead ,which I have had the rear tire folded over touching my caliper ,and not lost the bead , but when I get some real more sensible tires I will be sporting bead locks ,which if I go with the few tires I like in a 15 TSl...Pitbull...sticky Irok I'll do DIY locks if I do 17s it will depend on what I find at the time . I look at TR wheels like I look at their boat anchor super pricey bumpers :laugh:
 
I love my TR's. They are easy to balance which is important to me since I use my jeep as a dd 90% of the time.

My favorite use with them is when snow wheeling, 4 psi ftw!
 
I have a set of Allied bead locks. I highly recomend stepping up to beadlocks. If you can afford it, go with a proven brand. DIY can be a pain in the ass and are not as strong which has already been mentioned.
 
I love my allied. They arn't the lightest or the toughest, but they kick ass for an all around reliable beadlock. I only run beadlock in the winter though. Going down to 2 psi and not loosing a bed. I run plain aluminum in the summer and have never had issues running around 5-10 psi.
 
I have owned DIY, alieds, a set of tr converted wheels, a pair of tr hd wheel, and a set of ATX slabs. I have worked with walker Evans and race lines and will probably do walker Evans of I had to buy new again.
 
retarius said:
I have a set of Allied bead locks. I highly recomend stepping up to beadlocks. If you can afford it, go with a proven brand. DIY can be a pain in the ass and are not as strong which has already been mentioned.
Click to expand...
not as strong? lol ill cal bs in that. my diy were several times thicker than my allieds
 
Yeah, Allieds are junk. If it were between those or DIY I would go DIY all day long.
 
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