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The CAT Gets a Little Closer to Buggification (no puppy pics...)

Right Jeff,
The axle was used in a rear engine moon buggy. This means that the tranny is running opposite what we have. Their rear drive line is our fronts... The way they make this work is they use standard rotation ford 9" centers & run them flipped upside down. Almost as a side effect, they also end up with a very high pinion. In order for me to run this housing I had to flip the 9" back right side up. The bolt pattern is not concentric. I welded up the holes in the housing & used a junk yard 9" as my guide to drill the new holes. I located the third member by building an alignment bar that slid snuggly through the carrier & also through the axle tubes. Flipping the 9" over meant that my inner axle shafts were now junk. My short side was now too short * the long side too long. I sent the long sides (the axle came with all spares) out to get cut down & resplined & I had to order new custom short sides.

I have a 3 ring roller bender with dies for square tube to make large radius bends. This was actually a piece of scrap I had lying around that just needed a little tweaking to fit. I liked the way it looked & I don't have the dies to do the same to round tube...

Matt
 
Thanks Matt. I'm still having a little trouble visualizing the rear engine thing. :) Was your axle a passenger side offset rear axle when used in the moon buggy and now a drivers side offset when used in your rigs front end? What direction did the engine sit in the rear engine moon buggy? What offset was the transfer case? Oh, I noticed that the engine cradle looks awfully similar to the roof cross bars used on your roof racks (at least on scrappys roof rack.) That would explain why you have a three ring roller bender on hand for square tube. :) Jeff

FarmerMatt said:
Right Jeff,
The axle was used in a rear engine moon buggy. This means that the tranny is running opposite what we have. Their rear drive line is our fronts... The way they make this work is they use standard rotation ford 9" centers & run them flipped upside down. Almost as a side effect, they also end up with a very high pinion. In order for me to run this housing I had to flip the 9" back right side up. The bolt pattern is not concentric. I welded up the holes in the housing & used a junk yard 9" as my guide to drill the new holes. I located the third member by building an alignment bar that slid snuggly through the carrier & also through the axle tubes. Flipping the 9" over meant that my inner axle shafts were now junk. My short side was now too short * the long side too long. I sent the long sides (the axle came with all spares) out to get cut down & resplined & I had to order new custom short sides.

I have a 3 ring roller bender with dies for square tube to make large radius bends. This was actually a piece of scrap I had lying around that just needed a little tweaking to fit. I liked the way it looked & I don't have the dies to do the same to round tube...

Matt
 
On your drivers side radius arm....I've never seen an upper arm welded to the lower. Any experience with that or just trying something?
 
xj4life said:
On your drivers side radius arm....I've never seen an upper arm welded to the lower. Any experience with that or just trying something?

On that note. How do you adjust caster with it like that ? seems the hiem would not line up if you moved it much.
 
David Taylor said:
On that note. How do you adjust caster with it like that ? seems the hiem would not line up if you moved it much.

I'm sure you can adjust as much as you want with that upper joint. plus i'm sure he's got a good idea what his castor should be at.
 
xj4life said:
I'm sure you can adjust as much as you want with that upper joint. plus i'm sure he's got a good idea what his castor should be at.

But the upper adjusting hole will move in an arc around the lower mount.
If he was to add caster, the hole would move down and back. The hiem can only move in one plane.
 
I felt it was a waste of a joint to ad one at the arm (RE joints). As it stands the other 2 joints on that arm at the axle aren't going to do much of anything either & I considered just running a steel spacer there, but I already had the joints & they'll help isolate noise a bit. I set the upper tube at an angle so that as I shorten the joint it lowers with the mounting hole some what. I have adjustment from 0 degrees to 6 degrees before the hole stops lining up. I have it set at 2 degrees at the moment
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
Thanks Matt. I'm still having a little trouble visualizing the rear engine thing. :) Was your axle a passenger side offset rear axle when used in the moon buggy and now a drivers side offset when used in your rigs front end? What direction did the engine sit in the rear engine moon buggy? What offset was the transfer case? Oh, I noticed that the engine cradle looks awfully similar to the roof cross bars used on your roof racks (at least on scrappys roof rack.) That would explain why you have a three ring roller bender on hand for square tube. :) Jeff

Jeff,
Picture your entire drive train (engine, tranny, Tcase) turned around backwards in your jeep, engine in the back & Tcase in the front. Now, with the standard axles you have now, when you put the tranny in drive your rig would go backwards. If you put the tranny in reverse your rig would go forward. In order to counter act this you'll need to flip your axles up side down. They take a standard Currie housing & flip it upside down & run a standard rotation low pinion 9" upside down as well.

"That would explain why you have a three ring roller bender on hand for square tube. :)"

You got it!

Matt
 
Paul S said:
Looks well thought out Matt, I think you'll be fine on Lower Big & Claw:cheers:

P

We could just take him over to Chocolate on the first day and get it over with in 5 minutes. :D

--ron
 
Paul S said:
Should we take Gaut along too & kill to birds with one chocolate colored rock?

P

A good idea, but a yellow pile-up all in the same hole on chocolate might be kinda obscene even by Tinbender standards.

:D

--ron
 
FarmerMatt said:
I felt it was a waste of a joint to ad one at the arm (RE joints). As it stands the other 2 joints on that arm at the axle aren't going to do much of anything either & I considered just running a steel spacer there, but I already had the joints & they'll help isolate noise a bit. I set the upper tube at an angle so that as I shorten the joint it lowers with the mounting hole some what. I have adjustment from 0 degrees to 6 degrees before the hole stops lining up. I have it set at 2 degrees at the moment

Hmmm. I might try that on my long arms.
 
David Taylor said:
With all the sand in there that trail doesn't even look fun.

I agree. It's just as well I suppose. If we did take them over there early, then what would Scrappy do for the rest of the week?

:D

--ron
 
FarmerMatt said:
4linkfrontview.jpg

Great score. The buggy is looking great.
 
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