beast
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- longmont CO
Lets see some pics
BIGWOODY said:my wheels are 15's with 3.75 bs......just make brake caliper brackets and run chevy 3/4 ton calipers, clears with no issues.
Big Red said:Wow, you guys are really pushing the envelope on the XJ design. I like it.
My xj has 35's and 7-8" lift with re short arms and drop brackets. I'm most likely picking up a 87' xj with a waggy dana 44 5.13 gears 8 lug conv/14 bolt rear welded 5.13 gears and chevy leaf springs front and rear and it ran on 39.5" tsls. I plan on bringing the lift down from the 12" the guy says it has to 9" and run 37" mtrs or 38.5" tsl sx tires. The steering box area has alot of cracks in the frame that I need to address with the C-rok's inner and outer plates.
What are you guys doing to strengthen up the unibody frame rails with these huge axles and tires??? Are you sleeving the rails and especially the steering box area? Are many of you guys still running coils/leafs or did you convert to leafs all around to keep it simple with these extreme setups?
Troy
Huh? There is no reason you can't run 38's with a sleeved unibody. You do not have to build an xj/buggy thing. It just takes a little welding and time, but not near as much as Beezil, Onetone or ashman have done.Majo said:hmm 38's..... get ready to pretty much weld your body onto a frame or tube it out like beez, oneton, or ashman's ...errr XJ's.
want my advice, if you wanna get to the tire size fast and get wheeling, buy a rig with a frame.
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CW said:There is no way you can run 38's with only a sleeved unibody. You just have to build an xj/buggy thing. It just takes a lot of welding to the crappy uniframe and lots and lots of time, and it is not really worth it. and then you usually lose streetability and you should have just built a tube chassis and put xj skins on it and keep your xj for mild wheeling.
ArcticXJ said:Someone asked why it is necessary to have anything more than 37's, as they are the ideal size, and anything bigger makes the trails too easy. Well, with all due respect to the individual who stated this, Im assuming you havent been wheeling out in ALASKA lately. The trails here are unlike any i have come across in the states. Many guys are running firestone and Goodyear Terra Flotation Tires up around here. It's a whole 'nother world, and 38"s are basically just getting you in the door to hit the extreme trails that AK has to offer.
XJBill said:XJ on 38's = no stuff/all droop with some serious cutting and rewelding. And don't plan on having a very good turning radius either. Buy stock in bumpstops cause your gonna need them. 35's or 36's are the biggest I would run to keep it streetable.
XJBill said:XJ on 38's = no stuff/all droop with some serious cutting and rewelding. And don't plan on having a very good turning radius either. Buy stock in bumpstops cause your gonna need them. 35's or 36's are the biggest I would run to keep it streetable.
:laugh3: Never used bumpstops, not with 35s, not with 38s and not with the 39.5s now and i have a better turning radius than some SWBs. :wave:XJBill said:XJ on 38's = no stuff/all droop with some serious cutting and rewelding. And don't plan on having a very good turning radius either. Buy stock in bumpstops cause your gonna need them. 35's or 36's are the biggest I would run to keep it streetable.
BIGWOODY said:STUFF....38.5's and turns as well as stock.
and i have a better turning radius than some SWBs
Seems you don't believe anything what other people say Turning radius is not just a matter of wheelbase, many thigs count into this like WMS difference f/r, ackermann angle and the steering angle thew knuckle produces i.e.XJBill said:Impossible....XJ's have a lesser turning radius stock than the SWB's. It isn't going to get any better when modified.