• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

steering problems

Since you put the Rusty's long arm upgrade on, the quick guess is to just adjust each lower control arm until they are about 3/8" longer.... If that makes it drive better, than it was low on Caster... http://www.rustysoffroad.com/media/...33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/R/K/RK-LT10-XJ_3.jpg

Uhmm it's a radius arm set up. Making the lower arms longer would only push the axle that much more forward and not change the caster. Now changing the upper control arms length by shortening them would roll the axle causing more caster.
 
The inverted T style steering that is UTK will cause some roll on the tie rod which you can most likely feel. Inverted T needs the drag link to be more level to not feel tie rod roll as a dead spot. The drag link track bar are off a little, don't know how much of that you'd feel, depends on how sensitive you are. The mongo SJ drop pitman arm helps the drag link angle, but it puts the angle on the drag link out of line with the track bar. Pick your poison.

Not trying to be harsh here. UTK inverted T is the worst choice for XJ steering. It has a dead spot and the ground clearance is worse than stock.

Yes the roll is bad news - it has a permanent dead spot that causes the first action from the wheel to be "wasted" on rolling the tie rod into one of the stops.
 
"Uhmm it's a radius arm set up. Making the lower arms longer would only push the axle that much more forward and not change the caster. Now changing the upper control arms length by shortening them would roll the axle causing more caster."


i was under the impression that lengthening the lowers to length X2 from X1 (x2>x1) and keeping the uppers the same at Y1 is the same as shortening the uppers therefore increasing positive caster?"


Its the same as if the arms were previously adjusted out (starting lowers at X2) then adjusting the upper in from Y1 to Y2 where Y2<Y1, therefore increasing positive caster from this position.

I dont see how adjusting the lowers out wont affect caster?
 
caster is my first guess? Where is your caster at ? that will cause wondering for sure


second is ball joints ? tie rod ends, control arm bushings.



third is how is the steering box it self?

inner, outer and cross braces for the box will help alot.

I would also imagine any rustys steering would just plain be scary in general on road.

Another huge one trackbar. if the axle side bolt , the 4 frame side bolts, or the tie rod end at the frame are bad, then you will be all over the road. try a RE HD track bar , HD bracket with cross brace that goes to the other side of the frame.

put a breaker bar on every one of those bolts and crank them down real good.


I am going to check my caster tonight. Ball joints are good, I have the rock krawler suspension (just rebuilt) and steering (not even a year old) on mine so they are hiems, track bar is also rock krawler and my bracker is welded on.

gear box is braced in as well.
 
Back
Top