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Steering Linkage Difficulty?

DaveD912

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
It's time to replace the steering linkage on my '99 XJ. The rubber pieces that hold the grease (I have no idea what to call them) have ripped and no longer hold grease. I'm thinking of replacing the whole linkage with the Crown HD ZJ linkage. Are there any special tools needed for this task? I've googled a bit and it seems to be a direct bolt-on. I'm no mechanic, but I do my own maintenance and have put on a 2" BB. Do you think I can get this job done by myself?

Thank you,
Dave D.
 
You'll need new cotter pins, and a pair of pliers to install them, but thats easy.

You will probably have to do an alignment. If the peices are identical to the ones going back in, YOU MAY be able to get 'close enough' by making the new peice the same length as the old one, but i'd tape measure align it anyways.

x3 about the pickle fork, sure you could hit the castle nut... but in my experience that has been more trouble than its worth... buy a pickle fork, it'll serve you well. If the TRE's want to stay seized in the holes, as old tre's love to do.... some pb blaster and small taps with a metal hammer radially around the tre threads on the pitman arm/knuckles/whatever really help to unstick it.
 
Thanks for all the advice/tips. Parts and tools are on the way. Now I have plans for the weekend :)
 
If your replacing the TRE's then you won't be saving the boots so a pickle fork is ideal, especially at the pitman. It can be tough to get a BFH in there.
 
I never got the whole pickle fork craze.

Works better to just beat where the TREs or steering goes through with a bfh.

Also doesnt mess the boots up.

Thats funny, i never got the whole 'pickle forks ruin tre boots' thing... I dont think ive ever ruined a boot that wasnt a foot and a half in the grave....

I love my pickle fork. As a general rule of thumb, I try to avoid beating on automotive parts with hammers.

To each his own. I keep my bfh at the bottom of the tool cart....
 
I usually use one of these first.
TieRodRemoval.jpg

Leave nut on, but lose for the TRE doesn't shoot out. Then use the tool. Torque it down then smack the knuckle a few times. Usually works. If that doesn't work then time to bring out the pickle fork, BFH and then heat.

It can damage an aluminum knuckle.
LOL.
 
I usually use one of these first.
TieRodRemoval.jpg

Leave nut on, but lose for the TRE doesn't shoot out. Then use the tool. Torque it down then smack the knuckle a few times. Usually works. If that doesn't work then time to bring out the pickle fork, BFH and then heat.

LOL.

I have one of those pullers.... I think I used it one time.

then I picked up a pickle fork, and realized how much faster it is.

but even then, I only use it on the pitman arm. on the knuckles, just leave the castle nuts on at the end of the threads and hit directly downward on them with a hammer. if you don't have horrible rust it doesn't take much, you are just trying to separate the press fit of the tapered pin.

if I'm not trying to save the TRE like at the JY I don't even leave the nut on.
 
Just wanted to follow up for those that find this while searching. The job was easy 2 -3 hours, but most of that was the alignment. Get the fork or a puller, they are worth the $20 you pay for them. I bought a puller and it worked perfectly, especially up on the pitman arm where it is a tight squeeze. Now my XJ has the HD Crown steering. :)
 
I believe he said he was getting the ZJ setup. SO solid tie rod. drag link is most likely the same.
 
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