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Sprintex Supercharger & Gibson Header Install

I'd encourage anyone considering the brown dog mounts to be very honest with yourself about how much vibration/noise you can put up with in your cabin. This kind of falls in line with the spectre & thor cowl induction kits. I'm starting to think I can't handle it.
Mine have very little vibration. I have the rubber mounts. Just a slight hum from something behind the dash. Follow the install directions and you won't have much more vibration than stock.
 
When I installed the Sprintex, I drilled/tapped for the IAT Sensor just below the TB near the mounting flange of the compressor inlet manifold. I can take a picture if needed... My thoughts were to allow the PCM to work as designed. No modifications to the signals that are not absolutely required.

So, only the Crank and cam position signals are altered on the input side of the PCM. The injector drive signals are massaged by the F/IC and the TPS is monitored. That is it. I have had zero issue with the electronics since the removal of the as provided Perfect Power SMT8-L disaster.

The 68mm TB is alive and well. Behaves itself quite well. No issues so I can recommend this part to anyone with a compressor or a Stroker displacing 4.6L or greater. I do not have any low speed control issues as some have feared. It just works.

If going greater than 4.7L or, if building a 4.7 with a compressor, look at the 70mm TB as a distinct possibility.

68mm may not be large enough...

BTW, Drove the Heep to Denver (total of 143 miles) and back this week and averaged 23mpg for the trip. Not bad for a lifted Heep.
 
When I installed the Sprintex, I drilled/tapped for the IAT Sensor just below the TB near the mounting flange of the compressor inlet manifold.

Mine was already drilled and tapped for the IAT sensor under the TB on the side towards the firewall.
 
Brown Dog rubber mounts rarely pass on much more vibration than stock when installed exactly per instructions. That said, the most common installation issue we see is over-tightening the through bolt. There is a 'sweet' spot that is just exactly (sometimes just prior) to being unable to move washer inside the lock nut. You might try backing off the lock nuts 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Another thing you may want to try is to loosen the through bolts a turn or so, drive a block or two, then tighten per instructions. This helps the mounts settle.

I'm sure you're aware that 800 RPM idle is a bit low. We've found a considerable number of Jeep 4.0L engines that idle low. There is a service bulletin addressing vibration on this engine. The SB includes a jumper that increases idle to 1000 RPM. If you have questions, please call. We answer tech questions 24/7.
 
I cannot locate the 4.0L SB right now, but the 2.5L SB increases idle from 750 to 850-900 RPM (not 1000 as I erroneously posted earlier). I'll keep looking for the 4.0L SB. Talyn's memory may well be better than mine!
 
I'm idling at the 2nd hash mark off of 0 RPM. I spent some time on my jeep this weekend and I'm thinking at this point in time that my engine has excessive vibration and that it is a bigger issue and is in no way a reflection on the brown dog mounts. I think I may have jumped to conclusions. Here is what I'm dealing with now.

1) Excessive vibration at idle with intermittent miss. Tried the following to fix:
a) New plugs
b) new distributer cap & rotor
c) new wires
d) tested for intake manifold leaks and found no change in idle speed or quality

2) Tested for burned valve at tail pipe. It will every once in a while "suck" a kleenex or piece of paper in (once in maybe 20 - 30 seconds and it sounds like a miss), but generally has positive pressure with no popping or funny noises. Used this method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKDMqhqQ-WM
a) no popping or backfiring
b) Possible burned valve still???
c) possible sticking valve/or lifter, but there is no valve train chatter or noise whatsoever.
d) possibly need the yella terra 1.7 additional spacers because maybe the rocker arms
are too tight causing an exhaust valve not to seat properly.
e) No wild fluctuations in vacuum, holds a 6.66 at idle, but when it misses will drop to
6.57/6.48 then back to 6.66.

3) Noticed the #5 header primary was glowing orange last night after a drive.
a) possible lean condition (fuel injector)
b) possible rich condition (fuel injector)
c) possible valve stick/burned cause ignition extending into the primary.
e) AFR is always between 14.6 - 14.9 at idle, bounces a little around there, but I assum this is normal. It always enriched down to 11.5 at WOT while under boost, but I'm now a little afraid that uneven fuel distribution from possibly bad injectors may have caused a lean cylinder or two and maybe burned a valve.

4) Before noticing the header primary glowing I had noticed that number 3 & 5 cylinders are hot vs. the others. I can hold the fuel injector for each cylinder except # 3 & #5, so I'm now wondering if I've got some bad injectors.
a) The supercharger shipping box was filled with little foam pieces (including the tiny little snow flake sized balls that flake off) I'm concerned that some of these pieces made it into the new fuel line and may have clogged some of my injectors. I was meticulous about getting these off of all the other supercharger pieces, but I failed to blow the fuel line out before installing it. I will likely replace my injectors to see.

I'm thinking a compression check and leak down test are in order to determine if I have a burned valve. I'll probably install the yella terra spacers first just to rule them out then perform a leak down test.

Please share any other ideas. As you can see above I've got a lot to sort out. I'm not sure if whatever this condition is was present before the supercharger and I just exagerated it with the supercharger or if it is new since the supercharger. The spot glowing last night was in almos the exact same spot as the crack that was in my old exhaust manifold.

OGS, Cobra, what are your vacuum's at idle? Do I have a leak? If so, I can't find it... I've checked and re-checked dozens of times. I know N/A should be 15-20 in./hg, but I don't know what it should be after the supercharger at idle.
 
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That's concerning with #3 + especially #5.
I installed rebuilt 703 injectors when I installed the s/c.

A compression test is easy enough. There are 703's on here all the time.

I don't think that a stock 4.0L has 15-20 in.hg at idle.
 
With it idling, try this- pull the plug wire off #3 and notice what happens. Replace and do the same for #5. Also check a 'good' cylinder and compare. Does there seem to ba a difference? Plugs gapped .032-.035"?
 
Vacuum at idle. Good question that.

In my case you first have to factor in that I live above 6,500'... This drops everything. My standing manifold absolute pressure (engine off) is usually at or about 11.5psia so take that into account here. Your standing value will depend on the altitude where you live as well as the current barometric pressure and so manifold vacuum (which is, after all, a relative measurement comparing the ambient absolute to manifold absolute...) will be far different than mine.

Looks to me like Dallas is around 430' up in the air so... On an average day, I should expect to see 14psia or so, engine off, in the manifold. If you were using a F/IC, you could check this value easily. You will need to see if the electronics you are using allows this value to be verified.

To it then. My average manifold vacuum, at idle on a calm day, is 12"Hg to 14"Hg. I specify calm day as the weather (ambient barometric) shoves the value around plus or minus if we are in a high or low pressure cell. At this altitude, everything that plays is amplified by the "thin" air...

So, if we compensate for the altitude differential, that would put the reading in the neighborhood if 15"Hg or so. The manifold will behave differently now that a compressor is installed as the recirculation valve is open when the throttle is closed which impacts the idle vacuum levels.

IMO that is...

Idle RPM. My 98 idles at 750rpm today same as it did prior to the compressor installation. And the F&B TB is dead quiet at idle in case anyone is wondering.

As previously noted, since I dumped the SMT8-L electronics in favour of the AEM F/IC8, I have had zero issues with the compressor installation. I went with the F/IC8 instead of the F/IC6 so I could have access to speedometer correction via the F/IC. It was worth the extra C note to me. A small point to be sure, but then, those that know me know I get a tad AR about accuracy.

Engineers, what are you to do with them?
 
Thanks for the response OGS.

Although, now you've got me wondering now whether I've got a horrible vacuum leak given that my idle vacuum never gets above 7.5 in/hg and yours is at 12-14". I may pull the manifolds over the weekend, re-seal and put the shorter studs in. Maybe I do have a leak and just haven't identified it yet. Especially since it looks like just my center cylinders 3,4,5 are running rich, maybe the manifold hasn't sealed properly against the head and thats causing those cylinders to run lean.
 
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Thing is I'm still able to generate 5.5 lbs of boost... Couldn't do that with a leaking manifold, right?... Based on cobras experience with an unplugged 1/4" fitting I would think not.
 
Redid the intake manifold leak test with non flammable brake cleaner instead of ether this time. Failed miserably on cylinders 3 & 5. Looks like I indeed have an intake manifold seal leak. I know what I'm doing on saturday!
 
So maybe that is why just 5.5 pounds and not 6. Running wise, the vac leak will affect the running/idling and part throttle and a boost leak will only affect WOT boost not how it is running.
 
Hey, I was happy with 5.5 lbs of boost, but hopefully fixing this leak will net me a little more boost as well :).

If nothing else it will make the thing drivable again.
 
If you pull your manifold, put a straight edge to it and check it. Make sure it is not warped or ?bent.
 
Too late. Tackled the replacement on Friday night. I have pics I'll upload, but you can clearly see where the flange sealer never got a chance to seal. Could have been user error or, like cobra said, possibly not a true mating surface. I went back with a Gibson gasket, copper gasket spray and a thin layer of copper rtv on both manifolds. I also was much more diligent about getting it torqued down to 33 ft.-lb. within 5 min of mounting to ensure the rtv did not begin to set up before the surfaces were fully mated in their final position.

Took a 60 mile trip with it on Saturday to camping and has no problems there or back (thanks to OGS, for identifying the cruise control can be made to work by tweaking then bracket). Overhead read average mpg of 24. Obviously off by the amount of time i spent in boost with the unmetered 7th injector.
 
Your OHC mileage reading is now just for fun... Expect high to mid teens depending on just how heavy your right foot happens to be.

I am averaging a combined 16mpg, Although, the OHC does report 22mpg average.

The bracket... I asked Sprintex to change the bracket but do not know if it happened. It is also too tall for YJ installations with the 727 transmission. Messes with the shift points. It is the way it is to accomodate the MAP sensor that comes with the kit for the Perfect Power SMT8-L POS.

If, that is, Boostec is still shipping it and if they are not, I hope the kit price has been dropped...
 
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