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Second opinions needed for stroker build.

I second (or third) to talk to Russ Pottenger. I have one of his motors, and my son is building up one presently, from parts sourced from Russ. I'd bet he can figure out how to get this stuff to you as easily as anyone else from the states.

I am running the Comp Cams 231-4 that is tweaked for Russ specially. It is .462 lift on intake, .485 exhaust. 206 intake duration and 214 exhaust. Also running LS1 valves and bored .030 over, so I have the room to bore again if needed.

Russ is now getting both pistons and rods customer made to his specs, as well as the cam.

This motor was built for torque, and it delivers. Friends who have driven it nicknames it "the motor that cannot be stalled". Not a ton of top end, though I can push 100mph if I had to. But tons of torque at 700 RPM and above.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Thanks for the feedback! I will go .030 over.
Do you have any suggestions for high end aluminum pistons and connecting rods? And crank for that matter.
I'm starting to think it's better to find the parts myself rather than getting a kit. I'm a pretty decent engine builder, I've done a project with a v12 and some odds and ends, I'm just not very familiar with stroking. (haha)

Do you think a .470 lift is OK for low end torque or could I go bigger? The head can go to a bit past .500, like 540 or something.

Get it all from Russ. Building a stroker is no different than building a regular motor. The stuff all bolts in the same, so no worries there.

For a low RPM motor, I'd question the cost of the aftermarket heads. Russ did a flow bench on the Edelbrock. The result s are posted here in the forum. I'd look at those carefully for the RPM range you expect to run before committing to that kind of money.

David Bricker / SYR
 
For a low RPM motor, I'd question the cost of the aftermarket heads. Russ did a flow bench on the Edelbrock. The result s are posted here in the forum. I'd look at those carefully for the RPM range you expect to run before committing to that kind of money.
David Bricker / SYR

I'm not going for strictly low ram engine. I kind of want something in between. I have contacted Russ. Hopefully he will have time to help me out.
 
I've done some studying up on things today. Please let me know if I'm way off base here.
New list:
Edelbrock head
Scat 4.2 crank
IC944 or 945 forged pistons
Either reuse rods or get Scat 4340 forged rods
043 compressed headgasket
COMP Cams 68-239-4 - Camshafts (

This will, if I'm correct leave me with a quench of .070 which I understand is not ideal so I need to mill the block. The deck clearance with this setup is 027 so I guess 020 is the most I can take off, leaving a quench of 050. Can one take of 030 or 040 bringing quench down to 040 and 030 respectively? Or is negative clearance a bad idea?
I used the calculator here(https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/calculator/) the compression should be 9.48:1 I'm not to familiar with dynamic CR but it should, according to the Calc be 7.77:1.
 
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Update..
I got the wrong cam there didn't notice it had 1400 to 5700rpm basic operation.
Found one with 800-4800rpm.
New dynamic CR is 7.98:1
 
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The Hesco kit specifies .060 over.?
I'll probably go for that timing set, thanks!

Their about as deep as they need to be ;)

Update: I will be getting the loaded Edelbrock 4.0 aluminum head with 91-99 polished stainless steel headers and 2000 Intake.

The Edelbrock Head has the exhaust ports of the older style 4.0 head. You have a 92' Cherokee correct? I would think you would need the earlier type header with only one o2 sensor.
 
I have a 1992 with a 1990 4.0. I will be upgrading intake and exhaust. The head wants 91-98 exhaust and 91-06 intake.

I now have a complete parts list and will be ordering as soon as I save a couple more $$$. I forgot to factor in import tax. They add 25% of the parts value as well as the shipping.
 
Yeah... I get the tax on the parts, the tax on the shipping is what pi$$e@ me off. Well, that and the fact that 25% is just beyond reasonable.
 
One last (probably not) thing, would you guys get roller rockers?

I would because of the increased spring rate. I did the Harland-Sharp's and a stud kit this summer!
P1080471x_zpsetqh8leu.jpg
 
Mostly lower friction in the valve train. Can equal a few horse but usually at higher rpm. Lighter rockers can mean higher rpm without valve float. If you go with a higher ratio rocker it's kind of like adding a bigger cam.
 
The biggest advantage is the reduction of side loading on the valve stem/valve guides. If your buying a good head, it will have silicone bronze valve guides instead of the factory cast iron!
 
nice, now if I get my head redone, could I get those particular guides for it? cuz id like to get it to run smoother when its all said and done, looking for a little more power, and a lot more longevity
 
nice, now if I get my head redone, could I get those particular guides for it? cuz id like to get it to run smoother when its all said and done, looking for a little more power, and a lot more longevity

Any "good" machine shop could do that!
 
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