Rusty's 8 inch

[redrider2911]

You need the 8" in WA? I don't see how you have an advantage over a 6.5" lift. You have no more ground clearance and you aren't gaining any additional flex. Unless I am misunderstanding? To each his own though.

No more ground clearance? explain that... You have 1.5 inches additional ground clearance. Cops around here arent to keen on cutting your fender flares off either. You get tickets fast, and theres no way im running those crappy plastic flares.
My next build will most likely be 6.5 inches on 35s with custom tube fenders made like Cruzin Illusion

 

[devildog12210]

No more ground clearance? explain that... You have 1.5 inches additional ground clearance.

Your axles aren't any higher off the ground than they would be with a 6.5" lift. That is what would be dragging. Not the body of the jeep. That is why you shave the axle pumpkin and not lift the body higher in order to gain more GC.

Cops around here arent to keen on cutting your fender flares off either. You get tickets fast, and theres no way im running those crappy plastic flares.

As opposed to the crappy stock flares???

 

[ExTankerGuy]

Im here in washington too. I run 8 inches with my long arm on 35s. I MIGHT considering going to 6.5 inches on my next build but I definetely love the clearance. Its not to tipsy in off camber situations, just not a good idea to mount a spare tire or roof rack on top if you that high.

Bring that thing down this way! Follow me around at Clayton or Hot Springs! I guarantee you will want to lower it!!!


(But hey, what do I know!)

 

[ExTankerGuy]

I'm prolly gonna go up to 38s next time around. Not gonna add any lift either!!!

 

[redrider2911]

I mainly only wheel in washington right now and im more than happy with it. Ofcourse you dont gain any axle clearance... Not a big problem running 35s. there are alot of trees, stumps, and rocks around here you can get hung up on on the frame and crossmember. As far as high clearance long arms, I would much rather have a strait link that is much stronger then when already bent at a point thats going to keep bending. Like was said earlier, if you build them strong enough, say 1-1/4 solid hex (what i use) than they will just act as rock sliders and protect your driveline anyways. And no way would i run a radius arm setup.

 

[badandy]

I'm prolly gonna go up to 38s next time around. Not gonna add any lift either!!!

I like the way you think! This is what I'd like to copy for mine:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/154_1001_1986_jeep_cherokee_xj/index.html

 

[tonysinnette]

I'm at about 7, with full width axles and 36's, and fenders cut a lot. Its a little taller than I want, but I get full uptravel with out rubbing. Here its all about the rocks, so you need some good clearance. Even on 36's my axles still get hung up alot.

 

[89xj]

I'm at about 7, with full width axles and 36's, and fenders cut a lot. Its a little taller than I want, but I get full uptravel with out rubbing. Here its all about the rocks, so you need some good clearance. Even on 36's my axles still get hung up alot.

full width axles makes a huge difference when going that tall. 8" on stock width axles is pushing the limites of being too tall.

 

[tonysinnette]

I'm 5 inches wider than stock right now with my axle swap. Narrower rigs need to be much more careful with tire placement, and in off camber situations. Sway bar is a must on a lifted narrow with rig. Get some extended links and keep the sway bar hooked up to help with stability, or go for one of the high dollar set ups. You loose a little flex, but honestly you will get more flex out of a long arm than you will ever use in most situations

 

[Crazyy_Carey]

the only reason thats keeping me away from a re is the welding that is included in the install, won't it weaken the unibody?

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

the only reason thats keeping me away from a re is the welding that is included in the install, won't it weaken the unibody?

the whole unibody is welded together how would welding on a la setup weaken it?