yep. It might not look like it, but i actually removed the paint. Only on the front though. I didnt do the back of the bracket, or the block.
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Renix Guys...Long Post
- Thread starter 19864cyl
- Start date
yep. It might not look like it, but i actually removed the paint. Only on the front though. I didnt do the back of the bracket, or the block.
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
i see that you are using stereo wire. maybe that could be part of your problem but im not sure. just doesnt seem right to me
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
I didnt see that.
its amp wire. its the same......maybe better.
TerraWombat
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Eastern Shore MD
One of the things that I really didn't like from your original post was that your temperature gauge seems like it's completely inoperable. Do you know that the engine isn't overheating? The scenario where you drive the car for a while, stop at a gas station, and then it runs poorly right afterwards almost leads me to believe the engine is overheating or, at the very least, running real hot.
Youre right the temp gauge is inoperable. I dont know what exact temp its running at, but I am sure that it is not overheating. I know that the thermostat is working, and I have checked the engine at various sports with an infared temp gauge. When I turn it off and turn it back on, the amount of time it runs is not a factor. I could turn it on for 30 seconds and turn it off, then turn it right back on and it would have the problem. The amount of time it is off is what makes a diff.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
Not ignoring you. Just no ideas. Sorry.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Frustrating, isn't it?
Reading back through all of this the problem occurs only after the engine has warmed up and then been shut off OR if you cold start and shut it off then immediately restart the problem is there?
Reading back through all of this the problem occurs only after the engine has warmed up and then been shut off OR if you cold start and shut it off then immediately restart the problem is there?
Ive owned two renix jeeps and the answer to your question is that there is usually never one problem. We cant really recommend just a part to replace or a wire to fix without looking at the car itself. But we can point in the right direction based on previous experiences.
First thing i would do is disconnect and reconnect the vacuum lines while the car is running and make sure they are all in the proper place. If the car runs better when some lines are disconnected this could be a sign of improper hookup even though everything looks fine.
Second you need to go through the wiring on this thing. I have had countless problems stem from poor or faulty stock wiring. This is a really old vehicle and the wiring can cause lots of surprises. This doesn't mean you need a diagram or anything, a visual inspection of all the wires should be enough. Pull the sheathing back and really look at all the wires making sure there are no cracks in the insulation or exposed wire. These xj's were built tough and will run decent with numerous problems. So you really need to check everything here. Inside the vehicle and under the hood. The large plug connecting to your fuse block is a cause of many problems. Make sure all the pins are straight and connections are clean. you can do this with electronics cleaner, a pencil eraser and die electric grease. Another option for you electronics is to find somebody with a scan tool for the older cars. The xj will plug into a generic port and you will be able to get readings off of all of the sensors. I have used an old snap on ODB scanner in the past without the specific cartridge.
Third you wana check your fuel system. The sending unit and pump are the old gm style. The sending unit is inside the tank with the pump. You should have an external fuel filter above the rear axle. HF sells a fuel pressure tester for like 15 bucks might want to invest in that.
Just keep looking you will find the problem.
And always remember the problem is usually where you are not looking. So double check everything even though u may think its correct.
Let us know what you find and hopefully i can be more specific with a solution for you
First thing i would do is disconnect and reconnect the vacuum lines while the car is running and make sure they are all in the proper place. If the car runs better when some lines are disconnected this could be a sign of improper hookup even though everything looks fine.
Second you need to go through the wiring on this thing. I have had countless problems stem from poor or faulty stock wiring. This is a really old vehicle and the wiring can cause lots of surprises. This doesn't mean you need a diagram or anything, a visual inspection of all the wires should be enough. Pull the sheathing back and really look at all the wires making sure there are no cracks in the insulation or exposed wire. These xj's were built tough and will run decent with numerous problems. So you really need to check everything here. Inside the vehicle and under the hood. The large plug connecting to your fuse block is a cause of many problems. Make sure all the pins are straight and connections are clean. you can do this with electronics cleaner, a pencil eraser and die electric grease. Another option for you electronics is to find somebody with a scan tool for the older cars. The xj will plug into a generic port and you will be able to get readings off of all of the sensors. I have used an old snap on ODB scanner in the past without the specific cartridge.
Third you wana check your fuel system. The sending unit and pump are the old gm style. The sending unit is inside the tank with the pump. You should have an external fuel filter above the rear axle. HF sells a fuel pressure tester for like 15 bucks might want to invest in that.
Just keep looking you will find the problem.
And always remember the problem is usually where you are not looking. So double check everything even though u may think its correct.
Let us know what you find and hopefully i can be more specific with a solution for you
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
One possibility is a heat soak on a fuel injector, or a leaky, or sticking open fuel injector.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
You are missing a large ground wire (use 4 ga) from the dipstick ground to the battery.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
That definately sounds like a leaky fuel injector! But yours is a throttle body, with just one injector, so maybe not in your case?
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I would suggest checking voltages, starting at the battery (check the battery clamps and posts, are they clean and tight).
With the vehicle running, stress test all the under the hood wires, too see if moving them causes any problems. You need to dig up an FSM for troubleshooting the 4 cylinder. Very few of us here have a 4 banger, and that year was a transition year, throttle body injector, with a bunch of special valves, that less than a handful of XJs here have. Also check for any call backs TSBs I think they call them, that might be related to your problem.
There maybe an idle reset procedure in the throttle body version that is not resetting a valve properly. The 87-90 Renix 4.0 l, needs 6-7 seconds of off time to reset, something called a B+ relay is involved, IIRC.
Even though it is a single fuel injector, throttle body injection (that is what you have right?), I would still look for a leaky injector partially floodding the engine on start up? Aslo look into those other valves the 2.5 L throttle body system used.
Search for threads here about the "throttle body injection" (use as key words in google with
, or search here) for the other guy(s?) that has one of these beasts still running! And PM him to join us in this thread.
With the vehicle running, stress test all the under the hood wires, too see if moving them causes any problems. You need to dig up an FSM for troubleshooting the 4 cylinder. Very few of us here have a 4 banger, and that year was a transition year, throttle body injector, with a bunch of special valves, that less than a handful of XJs here have. Also check for any call backs TSBs I think they call them, that might be related to your problem.
There maybe an idle reset procedure in the throttle body version that is not resetting a valve properly. The 87-90 Renix 4.0 l, needs 6-7 seconds of off time to reset, something called a B+ relay is involved, IIRC.
Even though it is a single fuel injector, throttle body injection (that is what you have right?), I would still look for a leaky injector partially floodding the engine on start up? Aslo look into those other valves the 2.5 L throttle body system used.
Search for threads here about the "throttle body injection" (use as key words in google with
, or search here) for the other guy(s?) that has one of these beasts still running! And PM him to join us in this thread.It will do it both ways. Any time I turn it off if it dosent sit for an hour or longer it will do it. It only lasts for a mile or so before it is running normal.
thanks man, ill try all that again and report back.
I dont think its heat soak because it dosent have to be hot for it to do it.
so wait, there is suppposed to be a ground wire going from the negative batt terminal to the dipstick tube?
