RENIX Air Conditioning refresh FAQ

[Muad'Dib]

As an extension to a couple of threads,

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1080363

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1100113

I am posting this one to provide a parts list to everyone. This parts list is something I put together to completely replace all of the parts in my 1990 AC system. The main reason for this was to do a conversion to R134a.

This should help individuals doing R134a conversions or for people who just are looking for certain parts. Again, this parts list is only verified for RENIX era. Some but not all 91+ parts may be interchangeable. If you find parts that work with later years, please feel free to add to this thread.

Main Parts

Evaporator Core
I purchased the following part, but it didnt look like the original. If i were to do it again, i would order from the second link since it matches the original. I didnt have any fitment issues, but it makes me warm and fuzzy to replace with the same type\style. If you replace this part be sure to replace the heater core because they live next to each other.

FOUR SEASONS Part # 54614
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?partnum=54614&catalog=52

JeepAir Part Number: 36-7339
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-evaporator-916.php

*BONUS* Heater Core
I personally purchased this from RockAuto. However if you are already ordering parts from JeepAir might as well get it from there.

SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # 93024
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?partnum=93024&catalog=22

JeepAir Part Number: 99-1424
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-commanche-heater-core-1765.php

Expansion Valve
I purchased from rockauto, but you can also get it for a bit more from JeepAir. Both links provided:

FOUR SEASONS Part # 38901
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?partnum=38901&catalog=52

JeepAir Part Number: 24-9870
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-expansion-valve-879.php

Filter/Drier
Again, I purchased from RockAuto, but you can get it from JeepAir for a bit more. Both links provided:

FOUR SEASONS Part # 33235
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?partnum=33235&catalog=52

JeepAir Part Number: 22-8259
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-filter-drier-1250.php

Compressor
To make it easy, i basically replaced the Original SD-508 Compressor with its R134a counterpart 4514 (5H14). Its 7 groove, but works fine with our 6 groove Serpentine. (FYI you can also find this part from the same seller on Ebay for a bit less)

BuyAutoParts.com Part Number: 60-02100
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/...rmance/Sanden/A-C_Compressor/60-02100_NA.html

Condenser
Be sure to get a Parallel flow condenser when switching to R134a. Here is what i bought and fits like OEM.

Spectra Premium Part Number: 74173
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?partnum=74173

Hoses

Evaporator (Expansion Valve) to Compressor (Suction)

JeepAir Part Number: 72-5525
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-comanche-suction-hose-1915.php

Evaporator (Expansion Valve) to Filter/Drier
This part is not easily available. I had it made (Macs Radiator is local), but according to my local Jeep dealer it can be ordered from them. Jeep dealer told me part number 4773305 for around $75... but i dont know if this is the right part; again I had it made.

Jeep Dealer Possible Part Number: 4773305
MAC's Radiator Part Number: TBD

Filter/Drier to Condenser (Originally two pieces but is replaced with one)

JeepAir Part Number: 27-5551
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-liquid-line-drier-to-condenser-2022.php

Compressor to Condenser (Discharge)

JeepAir Part Number: 72-5523
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-discharge-hose-1905.php

Fittings

These fittings are for the Compressor that I purchased above. They will also be needed for any compressor replacement that has different size fitting threads. If they are the same size (like the original SD-508) then you will need tube-o fittings that I have not listed here. They are available from JeepAir also.

# 8 Discharge Fitting With R-134a Port

JeepAir Part Number: TO1620
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/8-discharge-fitting-with-r-134a-port-2011.php

#10 Suction Fittings with R-134a Port

JeepAir Part Number: TO1621
http://www.jeepair.com/air-conditioning/10-suction-fittings-with-r-134a-port-2010.php

I hope this helps!!

 

[BulletMaker]

Good write up, out of curiosity what was the total cost on converting to R134a?

 

[Chuckanut]

I was also curious on total price also. It would be nice to get the AC going again. I don't care myself, but my wife might enjoy 4x4ing a little more

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

I remember one thing that tripped me up the first time I tampered with Renix A/C was that strange spring ball thing in line located by the receiver drier. I actually installed it backwards and it spiked the line pressure. I believe I ended up taking mine out. That might be worth a mention if there is any info on that.

 

[Muad'Dib]

Total Cost of all new parts (for me) including new Pag Oil = $640

Keep in mind this is a total cost for ALL NEW parts for the AC system. Most users may want to do it the cheapest possible way which will not include replacing all the parts.

Its going to cost about another $170 dollars or so to get the system charged with R134a. So total cost for a COMPLETE overhaul is around 800 dollars.

 

[Ecomike]

Its going to cost about another $170 dollars or so to get the system charged with R134a. So total cost for a COMPLETE overhaul is around 800 dollars.

Wow, do they gold plate it, kiss you, or just use KY for that price?

For that much money you can buy a vacuum pump and gauge set and the 134a and do it yourself.

I replaced the hoses, filter-dryer, compressor, expansion valve, and R-134a on my 89 for $125 total. Spent a bit more on my 87, about $280 with a new condenser.

 

[Ecomike]

I remember one thing that tripped me up the first time I tampered with Renix A/C was that strange spring ball thing in line located by the receiver drier. I actually installed it backwards and it spiked the line pressure. I believe I ended up taking mine out. That might be worth a mention if there is any info on that.

Yes, it is not needed, just rip the guts out of the fitting, reuse the fitting. There are two of them as I recall, second one is on the condenser. They were part of the OEM factory, pre-charged R-12 install package, not a needed, working part, just an artifact of the way they installed pre-charged systems back in the day.

 

[Muad'Dib]

Wow, do they gold plate it, kiss you, or just use KY for that price?

For that much money you can buy a vacuum pump and gauge set and the 134a and do it yourself.

I replaced the hoses, filter-dryer, compressor, expansion valve, and R-134a on my 89 for $125 total. Spent a bit more on my 87, about $280 with a new condenser.

Since I don't have much experience with AC systems and I don't want to mess up any brand new parts, I like the piece of mind of letting a professional do it. That's a pretty standard cost for a pro. They will pull a vacuum and make sure it doesn't leak down and then fill her up. After fill up, check for leaks again with a sniffer and ensure the pressures are correct. They will also make sure that the vent temp is correct. I would consider doing it myself if it were a beater (Actually it would probably be OBA instead).

 

[scottmcneal]

Glad i can still get my R12 cheap across the border. I had to get a couple bottles to re charge mine because the valve core was leaking.9 out of 10 times thats all that wrong with a ac unit i have found, if it is leaking. You can go to any AC shop and have them change that without losing any freon.I know cause i own the tool for doing it.Then you can ask them if they have any R12 and what they charge for it.It isn't cheap. OH they had to STOP making it, but they had stock piles of it here in CA, just like the R22 for home AC units. I charge about $75 a pound for it.

Yes i am licensed to do both home and auto.

 

[JoshInReno]

Yes, it is not needed, just rip the guts out of the fitting, reuse the fitting. There are two of them as I recall, second one is on the condenser. They were part of the OEM factory, pre-charged R-12 install package, not a needed, working part, just an artifact of the way they installed pre-charged systems back in the day.

They are called quick disconnects - and function exactly as you describe.

Also very, very common on motorhomes. Just another potential leak point.

I remove them from every system I come across, as auto a/c is my business.

Good write up, by the way. Overkill on the retrofit, but overkill never hurts.

 

[Muad'Dib]

Just a quick update to this thread.

Using the 7 groove Compressor on my Jeep causes the belt to ride to the inside (towards the block) approx. 1/4" further than normal. A slight amount of the belt is off of a couple of the pulleys. I don't know if this is because I have a custom belt routing or because it just mounts slightly off. Anyway, the fix is fairly easy by modifying the AC bracket and adding spacers to push the compressor towards the radiator just a tad. So far without modifying anything, there is no problem with the belt.. but im going to fix it for piece of mind.

Got the AC system charged without issue the other day and its been working really well. The AC shop did say that when its really hot (like it has been) to turn my Taurus fan on High to help with removing heat from the Condenser. I can start to tell when this needs to be done because I can feel the vent temps start to drop a bit.

 

[SuperRA]

Just a quick update to this thread.

Using the 7 groove Compressor on my Jeep causes the belt to ride to the inside (towards the block) approx. 1/4" further than normal. A slight amount of the belt is off of a couple of the pulleys. I don't know if this is because I have a custom belt routing or because it just mounts slightly off. Anyway, the fix is fairly easy by modifying the AC bracket and adding spacers to push the compressor towards the radiator just a tad. So far without modifying anything, there is no problem with the belt.. but im going to fix it for piece of mind.

I am going to need one of these compressors soon as well. Did you investigate at all the possibility of using the original 6 groove pulley/clutch from the old compressor? Even with the pully correctly positioned, I wouldn't feel all warm and fuzzy with one groove not being used. hehe

What do you think of the following compressors? Are they virtually the same aside from the pulley? I searched 5H14 and got one and searched 4514 and got the other. The 4514 one also has SD5H15 in it's title..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d11f2fa13&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Univers...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d128f997b&vxp=mtr

 

[Muad'Dib]

I responded to your PM also.. but here is my response:

The listings in your PM are not valid any longer so I was unable to check them out.

I have investigated swapping pulley's and from everything I have found, its not possible. The only experience I have with compressors is just swapping the original for the one I have now. In my application it ended up pulling the belt towards the engine about 1/8". It never caused a problem, but I did eventually modify the AC mount so that I could move the compressor away from the engine that 1/8". After that the fitment is exactly as OEM.

 

[SuperRA]

I don't know why the links didn't work. I guess all I wanted to know is if they were the same part just with different pulleys. Like I said, one search (5h14) gave me one and another search (4514) gave me the other. Both were numbers of your compressor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d11f2fa13&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Univers...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d128f997b&vxp=mtr

 

[Muad'Dib]

I guess it doesn't really matter how many grooves you have as long as it doesn't go too far forward so that it hits something like a mech or electric fan. You can check the dimensions of the compressor to verify that it will work. I can only tell you about what I know, and the Sanden 4514 5H14 is what I went with.

 

[SuperRA]

So I went and bought one off of ebay with the 10 grooves. The pulley doesn't stick out any further than the original pulley but it is about 1/2 a groove off in the closest position.

But I thought I'd give it a try swapping the original pulley and everything fit exactly as if they were the same model compressor.

Unfortunately the back plate (cylinder head) where the valves connect on had different size ports, so I had to use the old one from my original compressor. Luckily I found a Sanden service manual some time back and it had torque values for the 5 bolts. First torque to 14ft-lbs then to 24-27ft-lbs in a star pattern.

I reused the electromagnet from the old pulley setup as well just in case there were any differences, but I don't think they were dimensionally different. The wire was different in that I think there's a diode or something in the OEM wire for some reason.

I then proceed to pump it down and it doesn't hold vacuum. =( I pressurize the system and hear a leak in under the dash.. The evaporator I put in 6yrs ago is leaking. I replaced it at that time because I was in the dash at that time. The system was never charged or used till now, so it must have been damaged on install or came defective. I'm so bummed... Now I have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the evaporator and I don't remember if I did the heater core back then either.

 

[desertred]

Converting my A/C to R134 is the one thing I lament doing to my 88 XJ. The R134 (from my understanding) is much less efficient than the R12, and it shows in the manner in which my A/C functions. At full blast, my A/C now makes the interior of my XJ tolerable at best at any temps over 85 degrees. I never had an issue when the A/C was changed with R12. Like the OP, I had the full conversion done at a shop.

 

[Ecomike]

Converting my A/C to R134 is the one thing I lament doing to my 88 XJ. The R134 (from my understanding) is much less efficient than the R12, and it shows in the manner in which my A/C functions. At full blast, my A/C now makes the interior of my XJ tolerable at best at any temps over 85 degrees. I never had an issue when the A/C was changed with R12. Like the OP, I had the full conversion done at a shop.

If you replace the AC condenser with 97 parallel flow condenser it will solve the problem if you have not modified the fan system and if the fans are working properly with the fan cowl is still installed on the mechanical fan.

This also assumes the other hardware is working right.

My 89 works fine with 134a, but my 87 improved 100% both from interior cooling as well as engine operating temps when I installed the 97 parallel flow style AC condenser on my 87. They are way more efficient and drop the compressor head pressure a good 35% which is HUGE! Like from 290 to 210 PSI in 105 F weather where I live.

The old style condenser is serpentine and has poor efficiency, versus the newer style Parallel flow. The connectors to the hoses are different, and need some custom hose-tube fitting mods. I had a local AC shop make the hose-fittings for me.

 

[desertred]

I assume you mean a condenser for a 97 XJ? If so, is it a direct swap or is there some modification to get it to fit earlier XJs?

 

[Ecomike]

I assume you mean a condenser for a 97 XJ?

YES. It was the first Year the XJ switched to parallel flow AC Condensers.

If so, is it a direct swap or is there some modification to get it to fit earlier XJs?

I had to have the AC to condenser hose ends modified to fit the newer fittings to old Renix fittings. I forget exactly what the hose-fitting changes were, but the AC shop I use makes custom AC hose sets for dirt cheap. The condenser mounting did not need any changes at all that recall.