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Reliably increasing power for tow capacity

1. Gearing.

2. RV cam.
 
Gearing made a huge difference for me.
5.13 & 33s, I didnt even know it was back there

Trailer in the neighborhood of 2k, at about 3000'
 
Golen stroker. 270 hp 320foot lbs torque with stock intake and exhaust.
305 hp and 370/380 foot lbs torque with 99+ intake, good header and exhaust, cold air intake, big throttle body, and other odds and ends. (it's been a while since I talked to them so I forget some of the specifics)

That'll do it.

I'd have to call BS on the difference of ~35hp by adding 99+ intake, exhaust, header, etc.

MAYBE 15hp, and that would also be the removal of the piece of crap mechanical fan and getting and electrical.

Ok, I'll bite. But for a Golen and everything required I'm looking at easily $5k - $6k. That's a whole lotta money for 100 horsepower when I can sell the XJ, put in that much cash, and get a nice V8 WJ or WK.

Yeah, honestly I think strokers are a waste of $. That much will get you an entire 5.3L V8 swap, and you'll still have money left over. If you DIY enough, that could buy you and entire nice 6.0L swap.

I'll never understand why people spend THAT much money on something, that to me has crap for return.

You'd be better off getting a WJ if you were thinking of a stroker.
 
becuase we aren't spending 5-6K on stroker swaps.

we're spending like 2500..
 
becuase we aren't spending 5-6K on stroker swaps.

we're spending like 2500..

$2500 is more DIY...

Gotta remember OP needs it done sooner than most people can DIY one.

Though I've still seen more DIY one's not end up being reliable in the long run.

I'm more of the party of putting in a motor that was meant to have in those numbers of HP/Torque.

Though I still think $2500 is too much to put into a 4.0L, unless you absolutely can NOT move from a 4.0L (i.e. required per class specs, etc.).

Don't get me wrong, I love the 4.0L...but spending much money on them will never make much sense to me.

Much like polishing a D30 to try and run 37's.
 
$2500 is more DIY...

Gotta remember OP needs it done sooner than most people can DIY one.

Though I've still seen more DIY one's not end up being reliable in the long run.

I'm more of the party of putting in a motor that was meant to have in those numbers of HP/Torque.

Though I still think $2500 is too much to put into a 4.0L, unless you absolutely can NOT move from a 4.0L (i.e. required per class specs, etc.).

Don't get me wrong, I love the 4.0L...but spending much money on them will never make much sense to me.

Much like polishing a D30 to try and run 37's.


I'd agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong. :)

This is coming from someone with two strokers, one budget, and one full tilt race engine. My partner has a stroker, most of my friends have strokers..


Yes, you'll get more out of an LS swap, but I'd say a stroker is better than a non LS SBC swap.

Locally, its also easier than having your car recertified for a V8, which is a LOT of work and puts you into stricter inspection specifications.
 
I'd agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong. :)

This is coming from someone with two strokers, one budget, and one full tilt race engine. My partner has a stroker, most of my friends have strokers..


Yes, you'll get more out of an LS swap, but I'd say a stroker is better than a non LS SBC swap.

Locally, its also easier than having your car recertified for a V8, which is a LOT of work and puts you into stricter inspection specifications.

I forget about you being in California...so yeah in your case I can understand doing a stroker instead of a V8 swap to not have to deal with all the crap CA makes you deal with :D

Mine is an opinion just like anyone else's. I'll be running the stock 4.0L in the buggy. When it comes time to upgrade...yeah modding the 4.0 would be easier. But, if I'm going to be looking at a drivetrain upgrade...I'll just drop a 6.0L in and call it a day :D
 
If a stroker can be built with quality parts, cooling system up to snuff & it's installed for $2500, sounds good. I don't think and LS swap can be done in the Jeep chassis for that. Still - that's 2500 in the Jeep to make it tow better. With the extra power, you probably want better brakes which to me means WJ swap (though Vanco and Black Magic pads on stock shit are good arguments to make) so call it at around $3,000.
If you aren't married to the XJ platform, you can sell the XJ and get a lot more vehicle than even a stroked XJ with big brakes.
I feel like this has all been said, though.
 
Thanks for all of the info guys. Ran the numbers last night, and dumping more than a grand or so into the rig doesn't make sense, if I sell it I just won't get the money back out of it. Even a 'cheap' stroker for $3k will only up the resale value by $500 - $750 at most. I'm probably going to sock money into the bank for a year or so, then jump to something with low miles that I can keep and beat on for the next 6+ years.

For the time being I'm going to put in a better transmission cooler behind the crossmember with fans, put in a high flow cat, and get a new set of gears. Hopefully that will be enough to get through for a while, maybe I'll change my mind in the meantime.
 
you just now realized that your resale value doesnt go up when you add stuff to your XJ? ...












Really? Just now......



...Every dollar I dump into the XJ is considered lost and gone and never coming back.
 
Simple and inexpensive solution is to decide that you can be happy climbing at 35 mph. If you look at the big picture, you're probably not climbing at least 90% of the time.
 
I'd have to call BS on the difference of ~35hp by adding 99+ intake, exhaust, header, etc.

MAYBE 15hp, and that would also be the removal of the piece of crap mechanical fan and getting and electrical.



Well you can call BS all you want, I'm just telling you what the man said. And if you think about it, it doesn't seem all that far fetched. The 270/320 rating is for strictly stock components, stock intake, air box and filter, exhaust manifold, restrictive crossover pipe, cat, muffler, throttle body, and injectors.

Now, the 99+ intake was designed to make up a 15 hp deficiency when they redesigned the 4.0 for better emissions and it worked very nicely.

Now lets see what we could reasonably and conservatively expect to gain from each component:

-99+ intake-Maybe 5-7 hp maybe more.
-good exhaust header and upgraded cat, muffler, and 2.5" pipe-10-15 hp
-large throttle body and injectors- maybe 2.5-5 hp
-good cold air intake-2.5-5 hp

Without messing with anything else, that's a possible 20 hp on the low side and 32 on the high side, conservatively. I even think that with that strong of an engine, that just the better exhaust system alone compared to the stock system could go up as high as 20-25 hp if not more. The more powerful the engine, the better they respond to modifications, if they're well thought out and done properly. Especially in the removal of restrictions.

I've been turning wrenches for more than 35 years. I've gotten more with less. It seems very plausible to me. Have a great day.
 
I'm digging these conversations, BTW. Such good information and viewpoints.

Now lets see what we could reasonably and conservatively expect to gain from each component:

-99+ intake-Maybe 5-7 hp maybe more.

I've got an '00. Already have it.

-good exhaust header and upgraded cat, muffler, and 2.5" pipe-10-15 hp

Got the cat-back exhaust. A high-flow cat is under high consideration. However I have the Cali-spec emissions, so I have the 2 pre-cats as well. :(

-large throttle body and injectors- maybe 2.5-5 hp

Bored out TB and replacement injectors are in place. Flow rate on the new injectors is similar to stock.

-good cold air intake-2.5-5 hp

K&N FIPK installed. Seriously considering replacing the element with a dry AEM instead though.
 
My '99 with 150+K miles dynoed 135rwhp stock and 150rwhp with Volant CAI, 62mmTB, tune up, revolver style header and 2.5" downpipe, cat and cat back exhaust.
 
I'm digging these conversations, BTW. Such good information and viewpoints.



I've got an '00. Already have it.



Got the cat-back exhaust. A high-flow cat is under high consideration. However I have the Cali-spec emissions, so I have the 2 pre-cats as well. :(



Bored out TB and replacement injectors are in place. Flow rate on the new injectors is similar to stock.



K&N FIPK installed. Seriously considering replacing the element with a dry AEM instead though.

That's great, but I was talking strictly about the Golen stroker. I will be going this route next year and have been doing a lot of research on this subject. I only used the Golen stroker as an example, as I have spoken directly with them. I have also checked out others, but I only used them as an example.

You already have most of the after market/hi flow stuff so if you decided to go the stroker route, you could expect the bigger numbers. With the stronger engine you could expect a bigger difference in power added with the aftermarket/ hi flow parts as compared to the tired, stock engine. Example, let's say that you got a 1-2 hp increase by installing an aftermarket intake tube and filter on your stock engine, you might see a 4-5 hp increase with the stroker as compared to the stock airbox.

And yes, it's a lot of money, I'm just throwing one possible option out of many out there. Good luck with your decision.

By the way, larger injectors are necessary and a good header will bring the biggest increase in power for the stroker.
 
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