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pulls to the right

sorry to correct you but caster WILL NOT cause a pull on a jeep being a solid axle they can not be adjusted seperately I also being a master certified tech for 15 years have done ALOT of alignments

Then why would caster be different side to side? Tweaked housing or brackets is about it. Fords have eccentric bushings for caster/camber adjustment as well as GM solid axle. There is adjustment there, you just gotta know what to look for. I know you can't adjust caster/camber on a Jeep without special ball joints and juggling the shims.

Caster will still cause a pull if the difference is big. This is fact. Don't matter if it's solid or IFS.

One other thing to check is if one of the calipers is dragging more than it should. Sticky caliper or collapsed hose will do that.
 
Please tell me on a solid axle how your are going to lean one steering axis forwards and keep the other one the same without twisting the axle. I don't care how many adjustment points there are I'm well aware of these but they are for adjusting the axle as a whole. I want you to please try and adjust caster on one side so I can laugh at you when everything is all bound up.


:rolleyes:

Caster is measured down to tenths of a degree. I'm pretty sure stock bushings will deflect enough to allow you to bolt it up and have them be different side to side. Adjustable control arms can be bolted up at different lengths.

Did I say the axle wouldn't be twisted?

You should get recertified :looser:

Sorry ehall. Hope I at least helped you a bit :)
 
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Well actually I just got back from redoing the toe--it was off a bit, not a whole lot but probably enough. I got scientific and made a mark at 13.5" off the ground on the front and back of each tire, and had a helper firmly hold the tape directly on the far tire, which allowed me to make more exact measurements. Now it is set to about 1/16th toe-in and it pulls to both sides pretty much (wandering pulls) so I think that fixed it and the remaining problems are with steering slop. I'll go for a longer drive tonight.
 
:rolleyes:

Caster is measured down to tenths of a degree. I'm pretty sure stock bushings will deflect enough to allow you to bolt it up and have them be different side to side. Adjustable control arms can be bolted up at different lengths.

Did I say the axle wouldn't be twisted?

You should get recertified :looser:

Sorry ehall. Hope I at least helped you a bit :)
im not going to waste my time with you anymore
 
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ehall,
Not enough caster will cause a loose, sloppy, or wandering feeling in the steering.
 
Well actually I just got back from redoing the toe--it was off a bit, not a whole lot but probably enough. I got scientific and made a mark at 13.5" off the ground on the front and back of each tire, and had a helper firmly hold the tape directly on the far tire, which allowed me to make more exact measurements. Now it is set to about 1/16th toe-in and it pulls to both sides pretty much (wandering pulls) so I think that fixed it and the remaining problems are with steering slop. I'll go for a longer drive tonight.

Toe sounds good to me.

I'd double check your caster for that wandering. Could definitely be steering slop. Do you have adj LCAs/UCAs? If you do, what did you set them to?
 
Yeah I know caster will make it feel funny but there is noticeable slop between the lower steering shaft and the pittmann arm so I am pretty sure that's my issue. I just didn't notice it with stock caster and stock wheels but with the 31s and steeper angles I really feel it (caster amplifies the feeling).

I have the super-adjustable JKS LCAs and stock UCAs. According to the data in my build thread "caster at (9-6)=3 degrees, and the pinion is only about 3-4 degrees below the driveshaft."

For a long time I was fighting a mystery that turned out to be the trackbar hardware working loose. This allowed the bracket some play which would actually soak up some of the slop in the system, and everytime I tightened it down it was like somebody else' weird jeep again. I seem to have fixed that with red loctite (for now) so I have been working on the problems that manifest after the fix, such as the jeep pulling to one side, and the slop and pop in the steering (see my other threads on steering box and steering column). Anyways the toe-in seems to have fixed the pulling to the right and it now seems to pull to the left some :rof: but I'm not messing with this anymore until I get the box replaced.
 
This sounds a lot like what I'm experiencing on my '98....

There hasn't been much talk about thrust angle..... Is thrust angle a consideration here? I know there isn't much if any adjustment in that department.....
 
Please tell me on a solid axle how your are going to lean one steering axis forwards and keep the other one the same without twisting the axle. I don't care how many adjustment points there are I'm well aware of these but they are for adjusting the axle as a whole. I want you to please try and adjust caster on one side so I can laugh at you when everything is all bound up.

hpfreak, you're the only one freaking out here. You're the only holding to your particular viewpoint. But I guess everyone else is wrong and you are indeed correct. Surprised no one else has said it yet, but I'm gonna have to nominate you.
 
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caster only controls returnability to center has nothing to do with pull and that bs the alignment shop wouldnt take its still the same job as if it wasnt lifted and as far as im concerned jeeps are one of the easiest things to align its all toe and go

Hey, do me a favor. Just above and to the right of the space bar are a few funny images. These are commonly called "punctuation" and are used in the construction of sentences. I've used a few so far but here they are again in case you missed them- , .

Once you get those down there are some more advanced ones such as : ' " : ? !

That should be good for some practice.

Oh, and caster causes even more of a pull than camber does, though you are right in that it's hard to get a caster split in a solid axle.
 
i will say it again SOLID AXLE theres no way to get diffent caster readings side to side unless you twist the axle

In fact, you can without having twisted the housing traumatically...

Recall that steel is often used in structures because it is "plastic" - in an engineering sense. This means:
- That it may be deformed - up to a certain amount (the "yield point") - and recover its original shape fully.
- That it may be deformed by either great or (relatively) small forces
- That, if you have adjustments in more than one point and you're not careful about adjusting them both the same, you can indeed twist the axle housing without realising it (or just thinking that the threads on the adjuster don't mate quite right, or that they're under stress from the install and not being misadjusted WRT the other side, or ...)

Bear in mind that you may be a master tech with 15 years' experience, but that doesn't mean that the OP is in the same situation - he may be good with a wrench, but may not know from what with a situation like this.

OP - what's the caster differences? Have you had it measured on a rack? (You can measure it in the driveway, but there's an inherent inaccuracy when you're using that sort of thing. "Measure with a micrometer. Mark with chalk. Cut with an ax.")

Also, have you measured the centre-to-centre distance on your new adjustable control arms? You want it as close to identical on both sides as possible (within the limitations of measurement, of course. If you've only got a rule that measures by 1/32", that's the best you can do. You get that idea.) You may or may not find your caster error there - but it's a good place to start looking (basic troubleshooting - "What's changed?" Always the first question you should ask...)
 
it called a hub bearing and if it was bad enough to cause a pull it would also be making a horrible growling sound the caliper is also a good thought but i dont see that getting irritated by a lift

http://www.timken.com/en-US/product...apered/SingleRow/Pages/TSU(UNIT-BEARING).aspx

Hey, don't tell me, tell the company that makes the best ones (IMO)....

Unit bearing is a self contained (sealed, unserviceable) hub bearing.

You learn something new every day, chief....

WTFG on the idea about the steering wheel being centered. Believe that was my suggestion in post #6 of this thread.

ehall, sorry about getting derailed on this tool - how'd the test drive go? And what was your toe set to before you adjusted it?
 
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im sorry i didnt know this was the north american english class association(period) and what exactly is a "unit bearing"(question mark)


Well now you know that it is! :eek:
 
hpfreak says to adjust the steering box on the cover. please dont mess with that you will do more damage then good.

This adjustment sould be done off the rig.
It is the over-center rotation torque.
 
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