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Popping and creaking after RE LA install

Well I had some time today and weld the mounts up, only got a chance to put one bead on the track bar mount, still want to take the coil out and get the backside. All in all, seemed to help out, don't as much noise or creeking as before. I didn't get a chance to put the outer plates on, I may get that next weekend.

One thing I did find out about my long arms is that the grease fittings on the flex joint side were both broke off. I don't know how, but I guess I didn't have the clocked right and they hit control mount on the bottom. Anywho, I put 2 new fittings in there and now I can't get any grease to pump in, it just shots out the side of the fitting. I gotta figure something out with that so I can get grease in those joints.
 
hey quick question, did your zurk fittings on the end of the control arm (part that goes into the belly pan) did yours break off? mine are no longer there and im stumped on how to get them greased up...

not trying to hijack sorry
 
Yeah I wrote that in my last post. They come with 90* fittings and if you don't have them clocked right, I think when the arm rotates, it hits the belly pan. There's a notch right below the control arm on the mount that the grease fitting is suppose to stay in the middle of.

Make sense?

I put new grease fittings in mine and still can't grease in them, so I'm gonna open the notch some more on the mount and probably notch the belly pan so I can get a grease gun in there easier.
 
UPDATE

Still have a little popping from under my feet. I've tried to grease my flex joints, but I can't seem to get any grease pushed in there. I'm straight on the fitting, but it just pushes out the tip of the gun.

I'm gonna try to get a buddy to rock the truck back and forth to move the joint while im greasing it to see if that works.

Any other ideas?
 
Thats pretty common when the joints are new.
 
If the grease is coming out from between the zerk and your gun tip, the zerk is probably bad. I've had that happen with a few where it's just frozen and won't open to let grease through...

Otherwise, I'd think excess grease would come out the joint...
 
97stomper said:
If the grease is coming out from between the zerk and your gun tip, the zerk is probably bad. I've had that happen with a few where it's just frozen and won't open to let grease through...

Otherwise, I'd think excess grease would come out the joint...
Click to expand...

Yeah, both zerk's were brand new. I got one to take grease but the other won't. I still gotta try the greasing while my buddy rocks the truck
 
did you ever notch the belly pan so the zurks wont hit? what way are you supposed to position them so that they dont get broken off? mine are already broken off now so im not too sure what i need to do. can i just stick the needle end of the grease gun into the hole and apply? do i really need the fittings on there?
 
vincepru said:
did you ever notch the belly pan so the zurks wont hit? what way are you supposed to position them so that they dont get broken off? mine are already broken off now so im not too sure what i need to do. can i just stick the needle end of the grease gun into the hole and apply? do i really need the fittings on there?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I ended up notching the belly pan and opened the hole up a little more on the control arm mount so I can get to the fitting. I can get to it real easy now, can get the gun straight on it
 
vincepru said:
can i just stick the needle end of the grease gun into the hole and apply? do i really need the fittings on there?
Click to expand...

yes, you can just stick the needle end in the hole. only problem would be if the needle end bottom outs in the flex joint before the taper of the needle adapter end presses firmly against the side of the threaded hole. if the needle adapter taper doesnt press tightly against the side of the hole, gease wont be forced into the joint, but rather it will come out around the side of the needle adapter.

if you manage to pack the joint with grease, plug the hole with a rubber plug or threaded metal plug that you can buy at the parts store. you could also make a threaded plug by cutting dowm a bolt and slotting the end.
 
My 90 degree zerks broke off the first day when I flexed it out. I ended up taking the joints out, taking the broke zerk thread out, and putting in a straight zerk. Then I drilled a 1/2" hole in the belly pan inline with the zerk so I could get the grease gun fitting through the belly pan. Now I grease it all the time and no problems with greasing. This however is probably not the reason why you have popping and creaking. I notice I have more creaking and popping when I have the sway bar still hooked up because of all the extra weight hanging from the front. I don't get any popping when it is disconnected. Hope this helps.
 
epd166 said:
My 90 degree zerks broke off the first day when I flexed it out. I ended up taking the joints out, taking the broke zerk thread out, and putting in a straight zerk. Then I drilled a 1/2" hole in the belly pan inline with the zerk so I could get the grease gun fitting through the belly pan. Now I grease it all the time and no problems with greasing. This however is probably not the reason why you have popping and creaking. I notice I have more creaking and popping when I have the sway bar still hooked up because of all the extra weight hanging from the front. I don't get any popping when it is disconnected. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, interesting. I haven't ran it without the sway bar so we'll see what happens. I still haven't tried greasing the one flex joint yet, been busy and it's been raining here.
 
One more thing I forgot to add. I did notice a loud popping noise which I traced down to the front leaf spring bolt on the driver's side. I slacked and did not re-torque everything like the instructions said. Now I know why, because those bolts had loosened up and were hardly tight. It took two turns to torque them back to spec. After that no more popping noise. I would recommend you re-torque every bolt underneath the vehicle, especially the suspension components.
 
epd166 said:
One more thing I forgot to add. I did notice a loud popping noise which I traced down to the front leaf spring bolt on the driver's side. I slacked and did not re-torque everything like the instructions said. Now I know why, because those bolts had loosened up and were hardly tight. It took two turns to torque them back to spec. After that no more popping noise. I would recommend you re-torque every bolt underneath the vehicle, especially the suspension components.
Click to expand...

Yeah I need to do that too.

Do you have the torque values for the suspension?
 
UPDATE

Finally got a chance to grease the joints, had a buddy rock the hell out of the jeep while I grease them, helped a lot. Both joints are greased good now.
 
if you ever have a zerk stick. just take a small screwdriver and push the check ball down and try again
 
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