pics and specs on one ton swaps.

[lancey3]

I'm really having trouble understanding your comment RyanM..

please for the love of Christ elaborate.

 

[trailworthyxj]

I'm really having trouble understanding your comment RyanM..

please for the love of Christ elaborate.

No dont elaborate! cmon guys for real PICS AND SPECS ON ONE TON SWAPS. Why dont we get some tech in this thread?!?! I clicked on it for one ton swap info, all the rest of this crap belongs in another thread, maybe even another forum! (with the exception of the uptravel down travel discussion) Lets stick to the XJs. :badpc:

 

[jmop]

Here are some old pics of my setup. HP D60 front 14 bolt rear, 39.5 TSL's on H1 rims.

I have about 8" worth of lift, 6" coils with 2" spacers and 6" leafs, home built long arms moving the front axle forward a couple inches and a ranger main on top of my rear pack moving the rear axle back a couple inches. The axle tubes are also larger wich give a little lift as well.

With this setup I ended up with about 4-5" of up travel. The openings look like they could handle more but the tires would touch the rear portion of the fender well's in the back and the front portion of the front inner fender.

I built the brackets on the front axle so that it was pritty much a bolt in thing. I did have to extend the upper arms slightly due to the larger vertical seperation.

The TJ flares were trimmed in the front up to the body line and in the rear it was opened up past the pinch seam and into the door. The 36's were a little small for the ammount of lift that I had so with 6" and a lot of trimming you might be OK. The wheel wells in a cherokee are just to small for 36" and larger tires so you have to trim unless you want enough lift so the body clears the tires.

As for the dodge front it isn't a bad axle. It is low pinion but that isn't the end of the world. One alternitive would be to get a aftermarket HP center section and DOM for the tubes, cut off the C's and put them on the new center and move everything over. Retubing the axle for DS drop is probably more expensivie then it would be worth. I thought the Dodge axles were DS drop anyway?

On my setup I ran 36's 38.5's and 39.5's. With everything other then the 36's the jeep did not like to steer in 4wd, even with the hubs unlocked. I ended up putting hydro assist on it, which I would recomend.

The axles also have 5.13's which worked fine with the 36's but was a little high geared for the larger tires. I could still go down the road but there was a serious lack of power.

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

ive got a cherokee on 1 tons what do you want to know.

 

[Russ Pottenger]

Ben, or JMop.

Just curious. What is the backspace on Hummer wheels?

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

IIRC 7"

that means they pull in towards your wheel wells an additional 3-4" over your regular jeep rim which can be a positive or a negative.

makes full widths not so full.

Ben, or JMop.

Just curious. What is the backspace on Hummer wheels?

 

[Russ Pottenger]

Is the negative ya get to grind your hubs on rocks.

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

yes thats one big one!

i also like my wide stable stance.

Is the negative ya get to grind your hubs on rocks.

 

[94CountryXJ]

ok question for you two. why do mini truck people run w/o an air filter. i saw one without one and i was awestruck! enlighten me.

Not to get off topic again but mine isn't finished, I will have a polished paxton elbow and custom cold air setup.

And for the ghey comment, don't be mad my engines worth more than your jeep :roflmao:

Now back on topic.

 

[vetteboy]

As for the dodge front it isn't a bad axle. It is low pinion but that isn't the end of the world. One alternitive would be to get a aftermarket HP center section and DOM for the tubes, cut off the C's and put them on the new center and move everything over. Retubing the axle for DS drop is probably more expensivie then it would be worth. I thought the Dodge axles were DS drop anyway?

Up through early 90's they were still kingpin passenger drop. Later ones - late 80's onwards - switched from the external hubs to internal hubs, which is a better design if you want to run lockouts.

I run a slightly older Dodge front 60 with external drive flanges; rather than switch it to DS drop I just left it and modified the floor instead. I wouldn't go through the trouble of retubing a low pinion axle, the Dodge axles have their own market so unless you want to run it PS drop, I would probably sell it and save up the balance for a DS drop axle.

Mine's pretty close to yours as far as trimming. The TJ flares give you a nice wide wheel opening. I run around 7.5" lift, 39.5x13.5 Iroks, somewhere around 5" backspacing...this puts it out a little further than Hummer wheels for about 81" overall width. I like it because it keeps the tires out of the inner fenders while letting me keep it low.

I only run a few inches of uptravel, probably only about 3" free travel and then another half inch or so of bumpstop compression. The rear is a little more, I run a progressive rubber Timbren bumpstop there. Keep in mind that this is pure vertical travel - articulating travel is a bit more, as after the axle contacts the bumpstop the wheel will continue to travel up as the other side drops. I don't feel like the height has caused me any issues with stability, and the suspension is well-balanced with more than enough travel. I've limited downtravel by about an inch since these pictures.

You can sorta see the overall width in this shot:

As was mentioned, expect to upgrade not only the steering links but also a good portion of the frame as well. The steering force required to turn tires like these is way beyond anything the XJ frame and box were designed to handle. A hydro assist ram on the axle is a great way to remove some stress from the frame and gain some steering force as well. This is how it ended up working on my Dodge axle:

and the overall steering arrangement:

(the bumper has since been revised)

 

[ktm racer 419]

I only run a few inches of uptravel, probably only about 3" free travel and then another half inch or so of bumpstop compression.

ahh according to dumptruck you also have an inferior suspension setup, now i dont feel alone

 

[jeep/bronco]

don't mean to be a dick but that is completely impractical.

seems like people get into the whole low center of gravity thing, which don't get me wrong is a a good thing cause we all know it doesn't take 6" to clear 33s and 8" to clear 35s etcetera etcetera.......

but having no up travel and all down travel is just plain stupid. you may as well be driving this gay ass piece

but then again you dont need travel for some sweet ass mud action! woot!

with the exception of the little louvers on the fenders thats a pretty sharp little hardbody body dropped prolly full 4 link tucking 20's + alot of time went into that mini (i know i used to be into those and had a very similiar truck myself but that was back in the day when 18's were huge...lol)

as for the guys that do have the 1 ton setups with 36's or 38's does anything every break that one steering pic looks insane like it would not break no matter what....i guess my question is how extreme does it have to get before you start breaking stuff with that type of setup

is a 1 ton setup feasible for a dd

 

[jmop]

as for the guys that do have the 1 ton setups with 36's or 38's does anything every break that one steering pic looks insane like it would not break no matter what....i guess my question is how extreme does it have to get before you start breaking stuff with that type of setup

is a 1 ton setup feasible for a dd

1 ton stuff does break, the bigger the axles the bigger the tires the bigger the motor....etc. I would think it would be extreamly difficult to break 1tons with 36 - 38" tires though.

I used to DD my rig just how it lookes in the pics. With the H1 rims, TJ flares and mud flaps I didn't get hassled to much by the cops. It isn't somehting I would do long term though. At the time it was my only rig. The ride wasn't all that great, and it really suckes getting less then 5000 miles out of $1000 worth of tires.

 

[vetteboy]

as for the guys that do have the 1 ton setups with 36's or 38's does anything every break that one steering pic looks insane like it would not break no matter what....i guess my question is how extreme does it have to get before you start breaking stuff with that type of setup

is a 1 ton setup feasible for a dd

Heh.

First, notice that the tie rod is bent in that photo.

Add to the list one stock D60 inner shaft, one stock D60 stub shaft, one 30-spline drive flange, one 35-spline drive flange, one 35-spline 4340 stub (twisted splines, didn't actually explode), and one D60 full Detroit locker.

Yes it breaks...however this is on competition-level terrain and big rocks. Aside from the twisted stub (which was warrantied) I haven't had any issues since going to 35-spline alloy inner & stub shafts. It's not all that uncommon to break stock 60 shafts, especially stock stubs.

As far as DD'ing it...there's no reason why you couldn't do it, as long as it was built properly...however it wouldn't be economical in any sense. I've got over 1000 street miles on mine as it is in the pics above.

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

whats your tie rod made out of?

i think i went overkill on mine and now that i think about it, it will probably transfer the breakage elsewhere.

its 1.5" .120 4130 with 1"1/4 .25 wall 4130 sleeved on the inside.

i went with true hi-steer and am runnign 5/8 chromoly heims with grade 8 hardware so im wondering if it will even be near the rocks to hit.

Heh.

First, notice that the tie rod is bent in that photo.

Add to the list one stock D60 inner shaft, one stock D60 stub shaft, one 30-spline drive flange, one 35-spline drive flange, one 35-spline 4340 stub (twisted splines, didn't actually explode), and one D60 full Detroit locker.

Yes it breaks...however this is on competition-level terrain and big rocks. Aside from the twisted stub (which was warrantied) I haven't had any issues since going to 35-spline alloy inner & stub shafts. It's not all that uncommon to break stock 60 shafts, especially stock stubs.

As far as DD'ing it...there's no reason why you couldn't do it, as long as it was built properly...however it wouldn't be economical in any sense. I've got over 1000 street miles on mine as it is in the pics above.

 

[vetteboy]

Mine is 1.5" x .25 DOM. You'll probably be fine, especially if it's higher than where mine is.

A buddy of mine used the same tube I did with the heims you mentioned, he routinely uses it as a hi-lift point to get tires off the ground.

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

nice.

the steering feels great w/ the assist so that will keep me from getting full hydro for a little longer.

im gonna post pics of my crap as soon as i get all the leaks out of my hydro assist fittings. doesnt look as cool all wet with steering fluid.

after seeing your detroit and a few other broken ones, i went with the lockrite to see if there will be a strength difference.

if not ive got a 40 spline detroit waiting.

Mine is 1.5" x .25 DOM. You'll probably be fine, especially if it's higher than where mine is.

A buddy of mine used the same tube I did with the heims you mentioned, he routinely uses it as a hi-lift point to get tires off the ground.

 

[vetteboy]

A Detroit rarely fails by itself. Usually they break because something else exploded and shock-loaded it.

In that sense, the Lock-rites tend to hold up better. People break shafts with lock rites and have no problems with the locker blowing up. However I have heard of more isolated failures with the lock rites themselves breaking, as well as the stock carrier.

The 40-spline D60 detroit will only make things worse because there's less material in the side gears, and the piece that really explodes is the same in all the D60 models...but you'll be less likely to break a 40-spline shaft in the first place.

 

[jeep/bronco]

Heh.

First, notice that the tie rod is bent in that photo.

Add to the list one stock D60 inner shaft, one stock D60 stub shaft, one 30-spline drive flange, one 35-spline drive flange, one 35-spline 4340 stub (twisted splines, didn't actually explode), and one D60 full Detroit locker.

Yes it breaks...however this is on competition-level terrain and big rocks. Aside from the twisted stub (which was warrantied) I haven't had any issues since going to 35-spline alloy inner & stub shafts. It's not all that uncommon to break stock 60 shafts, especially stock stubs.

As far as DD'ing it...there's no reason why you couldn't do it, as long as it was built properly...however it wouldn't be economical in any sense. I've got over 1000 street miles on mine as it is in the pics above.

so with a setup like this, a weekend at tellico playing around on guardrail and helipad prolly would not sustain any breakage?

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

tellico :laugh:

try johnson valley.

so with a setup like this, a weekend at tellico playing around on guardrail and helipad prolly would not sustain any breakage?