Oil Drain Plug

[skierbri10]

How cheap, and what thread? I'd need to get three more (at least,) but I've been looking into that for a little while...

Now, if I could just put a "drain guide" hose on it, that would be WAY COOL (hey, YOU do full fluid changes on four XJ's at a time...)

5-90

My question is how far it hangs below the oil pan?

 

[BCParker]

http://www.fumotovalve.com/index.cfm#how

here's that valve- I think I've seen something like it at Autozone, only it was made by fram, so I don't know if anyone here will trust it.

you can get them with a nipple to attach a drain hose-

$22 + shipping-

I'm gonna look into this.


B

 

[xray]

I know the problem is solved but I would like to clarify one thing reguarding using heat to help remove a stuck bolt. You should apply heat to the area surrounding the bolt not the bolt. The reason being heat expands the area it is applied to, you dont want the nut to expand you want the area around the nut to expand. You will have better sucess and less broken bolts if you do it this way.

 

[warwagon98xj]

two words pipe wrench

workz every time then put a fram quick drain in.

 

[falcon556]

O'Reilly sells magnetic drain plugs that are oversize, self tapping and cheap.
In case of stripped threads, screw their plug in.

 

[Thayer]

How cheap, and what thread? I'd need to get three more (at least,) but I've been looking into that for a little while...

Now, if I could just put a "drain guide" hose on it, that would be WAY COOL (hey, YOU do full fluid changes on four XJ's at a time...)

5-90

I'll give it to you for $10 shipped since your battery cables rocked so much and I'll be back in my hometown (SF) for the holidays, so shipping will be cheap from there. It's part# F-101 (no guide for the hose on this model) from Futomoto, not sure of the exact thread. PM me if you want it.

 

[Thayer]

That would be cool, until it catches on a rock. :laugh3:

Yeah, maybe. Especially since I have no engine skid plate yet....

http://www.4x4xplor.com/fumoto.html

The Fram SureDrain deal has a lower profile, but sucks for me because I'll probably lose that hose they give you to activate the valve.

 

[5-90]

I know the problem is solved but I would like to clarify one thing reguarding using heat to help remove a stuck bolt. You should apply heat to the area surrounding the bolt not the bolt. The reason being heat expands the area it is applied to, you dont want the nut to expand you want the area around the nut to expand. You will have better sucess and less broken bolts if you do it this way.

WHOA, THERE, CRASH GORDON!

One can and do not apply heat to any part that is not disposable. Also, it's better if you can apply heat to the part with the external thread.

Therefore, you'll want to head the bolt/pipe plug/nipple/whatever (make sure you can source a replacement!) to any point up to and including a dull red. This will force the bolt to expand, forcing the surrounding metal to expand with it (metal is slightly elastic up to a point, the becomes slightly plastic.)

Have a stick of paraffin wax in the other hand - once you remove the heat, apply the wax. Not only will the heat from the part melt the wax, but the differing expansion of the part and its hole will leave a small void for the wax to seep into. The wax will help prevent metal-to-metal contact, and re-seizure of the parts.

You cannot and should not heat any part of casting, housing, engine block, or whatever up to a red heat - doing so will cause a loss of strength in the part. Heating the bolt is safer because not as much of the heat will transfer into the base casting, and the expansion of the bolt/plug/whatever will still force the hole to open up. You can replace the bolt...

If it's a bolt/nut that's stuck, you'll still want to heat the bolt - AS LONG AS THE BOLT CAN BE REPLACED READILY.

Special Note - when you have used this method and you get the fastener/plug/whatever out, it's time to apply the floatation test. Take the fastener, and throw it in the nearest large body of water. If it floats, you can keep it.

I learned this 'way back when doing engine work, and it was often the only way to remove an oil gallery end plug. They're pipe plugs, and can be had all day long - therefore, they were sacrificed.

5-90

 

[BCParker]

WHOA, THERE, CRASH GORDON!
Special Note - when you have used this method and you get the fastener/plug/whatever out, it's time to apply the floatation test. Take the fastener, and throw it in the nearest large body of water. If it floats, you can keep it.
5-90

:laugh2:

that's a great test.

I found the fram ones- just about every place that sells fram filters should have them, but they just don't look as durable as the Japanese ones.

plus you need the hose to activate the valve-

 

[HaleYes]

FWIW, I've got a Sure Drain on the wyfes GMC Jimmy and I really like it. I removed the hose from the "drain-activator", it just slides right off. I just clean it up good with some brake cleaner after every use and dry it off with a rag, and throw it in the glove box. I won't put one on the XJ though, I'd probably snag it. Two penny's from me.

 

[uvaldetxj]

14 mm, i believe.