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My attempt at Rocker Replacement w/sliders

Haleyes said:
If you want them to be truly indestructible, place some FOX Racing stickers on them. That mod alone will add 15 horsepower as well as beef up your new rocker replacements.

Hale
lol...
 
waxer said:
10-4...

Yes I definitely will plan on tying those in to the frame rails then, along with a few other things.

Thanks for the helpful feedback

Good call. Here's how I did mine.

CIMG9973Medium.jpg
 
Timmay said:
Good call. Here's how I did mine.

CIMG9973Medium.jpg


I was thinking of doing something along this line, Just to add onto my current setup(very much like you have just with out the stock going to the unibody)



Question:

Do you ever get hung up on the stock going to the unibody? Or can you still slide on them well?

Does it really make a difference? I am sure anything and everything help the unibody structure though?
 
I did the same thing about three years ago. I get hung up on the kickers a lot, so much in fact that I'm going to cut everything off as soon as I have time to redo it all.
standard.jpg

I actually want to raise the rocker tubes even higher. Mine are made out of 2X6X.120" and are bent so I think that just welding them to the body will not hold up in the long run.
As far as adding structure, yes, they do help. With my cage tied into my rockers and sub frame it definately makes the chassis feel a lot stiffer.
 
Jes said:
I did the same thing about three years ago. I get hung up on the kickers a lot, so much in fact that I'm going to cut everything off as soon as I have time to redo it all.
I actually want to raise the rocker tubes even higher. Mine are made out of 2X6X.120" and are bent so I think that just welding them to the body will not hold up in the long run.
As far as adding structure, yes, they do help. With my cage tied into my rockers and sub frame it definately makes the chassis feel a lot stiffer.
I'm sure you've thought of this, so maybe you can tell why you're going to totally redo them instead of adding some plate to kind of boatside it. I'd think that would be a whole lot easier and cheaper than redoing it.
EDIT: I removed Jes's pic. from the quote.
 
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Well, I tried something like that only with aluminum. They didn't hold up and honestly, the steel that I would have touse would weigh a whole lot.

Believe it or not, if I raised my rocker tubes two inches and added new tie ins with boat sides it would make a world of difference compared to just adding some steel plate now.
Yes, adding some 3/16" steel to boat side it would be the cheap and easy way to fix it but I'm not cheap and easy, I'm stubborn.
 
ya I going to say that would weigh WAY to much to plate steel the whole side


I know a lot of comp jeeps that have 45* rails or whatever they call them, but that is just to much weight and I dont see the point
 
I really like the rocker replacement/ rock rail idea, but why about using a 2x4" rec tube and run 2x2 supports form the unibody out, and make a 45 degree cut and weld it on.

Here is my idea, Ill do one in rhino, but its in my class so it might not be til mid week, since I gotta get ahead of the class to goof off, which is easy im the best in there LOL

supports.jpg
 
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I'm intrested in seeing all the different attempts to connect to the unibody from a rocker constructed like this.

...Waxer when you get done, make sure to post those pictures of how you went about this...

this IS the best type of slider by far:guitar:
 
CustomCrawler said:
I really like the rocker replacement/ rock rail idea, but why about using a 2x4" rec tube and run 2x2 supports form the unibody out, and make a 45 degree cut and weld it on.

Here is my idea, Ill do one in rhino, but its in my class so it might not be til mid week, since I gotta get ahead of the class to goof off, which is easy im the best in there LOL

supports.jpg


That is basically the same thing but you dont have nearly the same downward support.... and you still cant slide on them... you have to make them connected some how flat
 
IntrepidXJ said:
if you only attach to the sheet metal, they will not survive more than a couple hard hits. i tied mine into he cage and others have tied them into the framerails. that's the only way to go IMO
Mine are attached the same way and they have survived repeated bashings with no structural problems at all.
 
Well I put these to good use over at the hammers last weekend.

I slammed down on them pretty hard more than a few times, scraped them to hell and back and they didn't even budge.

I'm more than confident that they will survive just fine.

The round tubing dented a little, but by no means did it do anything to the sheet metal that they are welded to.
 
Too lazy to do this yet on my rig but did it to my buddies. Quite a few guys up here have those but using 3x6. I welded both seams fully and rosette welded the pinch seam and door seam every 4in. Also welded on the front and back sides in the wheel wells. Have had it sit, slam and bang with no movement. Im still not convinced that adding gussets will keep it from moving up. As of now have not seen any problems, only one problem i have seen was one set up that was screwed down the pinch seam and the screws broke and damn near ripped the rails off. Thinking the failures to this are due to welds not being solid.
 
waxer said:
Well I put these to good use over at the hammers last weekend.

I slammed down on them pretty hard more than a few times, scraped them to hell and back and they didn't even budge.

I'm more than confident that they will survive just fine.

The round tubing dented a little, but by no means did it do anything to the sheet metal that they are welded to.
jeeperjohn said:
Mine are attached the same way and they have survived repeated bashings with no structural problems at all.
im glad this is working out for both of you, but It did not for me...

My rocker pushed up about 2" and in about 2" after repeated runs doorless with rocker replacements only tied into the sheetmetal - and I added some 10GA internal gusseting to help 'spread the load' around to no avail...
It even pushed the whole b-pillar up about 1-1.5" per side...

look at the door sill line, and the cut lines at the roof pinc seam - you can tell where the gap changes that stuff was moved around...

stp81817uu3.jpg


maybe its 'cuse mine is a 2 door and I wheeled doorless and windowless for one too many trips?
 
I currently have JCR stage II sliders and was thinking about cutting out the rockers and moving these up to accomplish the same thing. One main reason is my driver's side rocker is getting pretty rusty, the other is obviously a little more clearance. Would moving a slider like that up work out better because of also having the frame mounting, or do you think it would be more trouble than it's worth due to the sliders having to be modified somehow?
 
Here's how I did mine:

I've come down on them repeatedly, the worst time being about a 2-foot drop that I didn't realize was there on the passenger side. Came down hard but nothing has moved yet. Frame rail is plated, with 4 kickers welded from the frame rail to the rocker tube. I cut up pretty high and cut the door a little too.
 
xj92 said:
Here's how I did mine:

I've come down on them repeatedly, the worst time being about a 2-foot drop that I didn't realize was there on the passenger side. Came down hard but nothing has moved yet. Frame rail is plated, with 4 kickers welded from the frame rail to the rocker tube. I cut up pretty high and cut the door a little too.


Very cool... i was going to go up that high when i did mine I just didnt see the point, the floor is now lower then the 2x4 rocker, but you have the bracing too, so...

That and cutting the doors, I didnt know what you could cut tell they just opened up like a can of worms, looks like you cut the max.

I have not problem cutting up my jeep, I just need a solid reason for doing so.


My future plans on redoing my rockers is to go up another 4inches and cut out all the floor and lift it with plate, but never do it because it is over kill. But I have seen it done, just takes time
 
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