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Long term reliablity of high strength U-joints

Jeff 98XJ WI said:
If you haven't considered the Jantz joint, perhaps you should. Look here for there inf. http://www.jantz4x4.com/products/jantzjoint/jantzjoint.html. The super grease stuff is supposed to really cut down on friction, so perhaps they would work ok in a DD rig without lockouts? The trunions on the joint are very large too. I believe the Yukon/Randy's Ring and Pinoin joints are the same joint. I was quoted $220 for a pair from Carl Jantz awhile ago. Just another option. Jeff
That's hilarious. I was ordering them while you were typing this.
Great minds must think alike, huh?
 
CRASH said:
Do you have to paint them a gaudy color in order to extract maximum performance? If that is the case, I'm breaking out the labia pink spray paint for my CTM's......

CRASH

Great color choice Crash. :roflmao:
 
obviusly i cant say for sure without looking at the setup, but on greasing, you can by a special adapter to grease u-joints. its like about 1 inch long, maybe a milimeter thick, with a taper on the end. push it into the end of the zerk. not sure on the pressure you can get out of it, but they work pretty good in my experiance in driveshaft aplications.
 
CRASH said:
Do you have to paint them a gaudy color in order to extract maximum performance? If that is the case, I'm breaking out the labia pink spray paint for my CTM's......

CRASH

You'll notice that the JD green painted joint didn't break. I should have painted the entire axle assembly... I didn't make that mistake on the new rig. The whole assemblys are CAT yellow. No more broken shafts for me. Aren't your ball joint boots already pink?

Matt
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
Here is a link to the thread where Bryan C. posted about a set of Longfields wearing out in a non lockout front end: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38400&page=2&pp=15&highlight=760

Jeff


I was disappointed at how quickly the busings wore out in the u-joints. Even after greasing them regularly. Bushings in u-joints, to me anyway, are a good thing, and the longfields seem to hold up well for other people. They were just a poor choice for my application.
 
Kid, I assume you have typical needle bearing shafts already....

take those out, throw in your chro-mo w/ longs or ctms for BOTW.....you will NEED them, and breaking SUCKS.

when you return, put the other ones back in.
 
I just ordered the Jantz Superjoints. I really like the design.
Beezil said:
Kid, I assume you have typical needle bearing shafts already....

take those out, throw in your chro-mo w/ longs or ctms for BOTW.....you will NEED them, and breaking SUCKS.

when you return, put the other ones back in.
That's probably what I'll do. Leave them in for Winterfest and then switch the stockers back in till summer when wheeling become a little more frequent.
This is getting rediculous; trail only tires, trail axles.
I need a different DD.
 
kid4lyf said:
I just ordered the Jantz Superjoints. I really like the design.
That's probably what I'll do. Leave them in for Winterfest and then switch the stockers back in till summer when wheeling become a little more frequent.
This is getting rediculous; trail only tires, trail axles.
I need a different DD.

thats about it.

Attica is a joke compared to the other trails out there.

you will see.

in Attica someone can break, and its okay. Some like to get in on the wrenchin action, others go off and wheel somewhere else.

Attica is about the only place I know of where people have the option to wheel or wrench. Everywhere else, if someone breaks, everyone else must stop wheeling.

It sux when you gotta stop because someone else brought questionable garbage on a REAL trail...I've been the "cause" several times, and its not fun when people throw dried up horse crap at you and call you bad names.....CTMs or Longfields (or comparable) will keep you from breaking a known weak point, and you'll make fewer enemies that way.
 
kid4lyf said:
I just ordered the Jantz Superjoints. I really like the design.
That's probably what I'll do. Leave them in for Winterfest and then switch the stockers back in till summer when wheeling become a little more frequent.
This is getting rediculous; trail only tires, trail axles.
I need a different DD.


Life never changes....

You got to pay to play. :cry:

:cheers:


:D
 
LouisianaZJ said:
so is there a difinative answer to this. Can i run longfields on my non-hubed D30 which sees about 5k a year?
im getting alloy axles
This is what I decided. I bought the Jantz (Yukon) Superjoints because I like a hardened steel bushing for wear. I decided against the Longfields because they use a bronze bushing. Bronze is softer and is made to wear.
It becomes a matter of choosing your poison. The hard steel bearings will last longer but when they go the whole joint is trash. Bronze bearings will wear out much faster but when they go you should be able to replace only the bushings, not the whole joint.
 
LouisianaZJ said:
so is there a difinative answer to this. Can i run longfields on my non-hubed D30 which sees about 5k a year?
im getting alloy axles

Don't see why not.

As far as a definitive answer, you are the only one who can determine that. There just isn't enough long term use of these products yet to have a bunch of experience to draw from.

To me, if you use your rig hard enough on the trail that chrmo shafts and expensive u-joints are desirable, the bushings in the u-joint are going to outlast the yokes on the Spicer shafts regardless of whether or not you daily drive your non-locking hubed XJ. Even if you don't break a Spicer shaft, the yokes can easily stretch enough to make the shaft useless before the bushings wear out on the expensive u-joint. Last time I checked a good Spicer 297x shaft was about the same cost as a good u-joint.
 
Id stay away from the OX joints, as Ive seen about a dozen of them break. I got 2 years on my Dana 44 CTM's and they worked out great, I acually broke both of my 44 CTM's but it was from 2 years of major abuse, running rockcrawling events and hard trail duty. I just went up to a front 60 and a pair of 60 CTM's. I dont really know about the Yukon joint, they havent been out very long. I agree Longfield would be the best bang for thr buck, but not the strongest.
 
FlxnXJ said:
Id stay away from the OX joints, as Ive seen about a dozen of them break. I got 2 years on my Dana 44 CTM's and they worked out great, I acually broke both of my 44 CTM's but it was from 2 years of major abuse, running rockcrawling events and hard trail duty. I just went up to a front 60 and a pair of 60 CTM's. I dont really know about the Yukon joint, they havent been out very long. I agree Longfield would be the best bang for thr buck, but not the strongest.

Where/what did the OX joints break?

Just curious....
 
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