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Long Arm Upgrade teraflex vs rock krawler

javik said:
all that being said, whats the best for go fast jeeps? Radius arm? 4link? Does any jeepspeed team use Tnt or RK for their jeep? Or is it just skyjacker or RE all the way? I want something that will hold up to go fast abuse. Nothing like fanning the flame a litle

Well for a long arm kit your hard pressed to see a RE kit and very hard pressed to see a SJ kit on a Jeepspeed vehicle. You will though find RE shorty's with the reinforcment brackets, and now about 10 competitive and more in the top 5 then any kit out there, full-traction kits... They are a improved RK deisgn, if I will.... It is a 4 link front...
 
xjcrawlr said:
Untill this season, "long-arms" were not permitted in Jeepspeed. The rules stated the stock mounts must remain intact, and that no sheet metal may be removed. Although metal may be added for reinforcement.

IIRC, those are still the rules for the sportsman class. While the PRO class is allowed to run any suspension system available to the public that is a "bolt on".
.

Well I was told that all classes are allowing the FT kit and that there was an agreement that was struck between JS and FT...
 
Wil Badger said:
i know that caster affects death wobble

Ok so now you agree with that statement I made about caster affecting bump steer. And you also agree that a radius arm's caster changes throught its cylce.

Wil Badger said:
you are not going to hit a bump and all of a sudden have death wobble.you track bar has to be out of cycle with the draglink to start the whole thing off.if radius arms were so unstable as to cause death wobble because of a bump it would have never been used in a production vehicle.

That is what I have tried to explain to you that yes it can and it is more pron to it than any other set up. Example: If you had a truck and lifted it and your alignment specs were 2* of caster.(and it turned out this way to split the difference between the bad pinion angle.) So when this vehicle goes down the road and hits a bump the caster angle could change to -2* of caster or any where in between and that will trigger death wobble.


And if you remember those eng. at ford when they set that design up the arms were almost parrell to the ground. In that placement the same amount of travel will produce less caster change. your not comparing apples to apples. It a good design if you keep those arms as level as possible thats the key to keeping the caster change to a minimal.
 
so what bolt on kits are the top 10 jeepspeed gys running, and would the tnt kit do alright for a moderate go fast jeep? I have the RE long arm in one of my xjs right now and i love the way it handles, way better than my 4.5 short arm (but that might be due the fact that its a rustys)
 
Most of Jeepspeed are either using RE, Currie, or semi-custom T&J. They will use heavly braced RE drop brackets or sometimes a SJ sub-frame with Currie or RE arms.

Check out www.tandjperformance.com, they sell a whole mess of Jeepspeed specific components.
 
I am running the Tera Kit, while it isnt the best out thereit does do well for what it is. Would I buy it again... Hell no, I would however build my own set. Here is a link to my rig, where I had my cage work done at. At the bottom of the link you can see some pics of my rig in action.

http://independent4x.com/generic67.html

And here is some video of my rig in action before any of the tube work got done on it

http://besrk.zippyvideos.com/gallery.z

All that on Terra LA's
 
xjcrawlr said:
Back to topic though....

Its your money, do what you want with it. I dont care what kind of suspension you have, as long as it doesn't break in front of me on the trail.

I ran the RK gen II kit becauce it the closest thing I could find to what I was looking for. Absolutely it has flaws, the arms are so strong they rip the stock lower mounts off the axle and the upper mount at the body will "pinch" the frame rail causing the floor board above it to deform.

On the other hand I think the TNT kit has best ground clearance on the market. Bar none.


I think you should stay with a short arm system for jeepspeed
rock krawling and jeepspeed are two different things
SO WHAT KIND OF WHEELING ARE YOU PLANING ON DOING.

the stock control arm mounts on the axle are the first to go

Ive replaced all the stock brackets on my front axle mostly cause of my steering set up
 
im really not trying to beat the dead horse, But im trying to decide between the FT kit or the TNT kit and its a tough choice. WHEN is capnt NEMO going to chime in again? My new rig is going to be doing alot of DD and 1000mile trips and i want good handling with no DW. It really freaks the wife out when shes driving.

So FT is what the top jeepspeeders are using?

Does TNT really suck that bad on the road? I currently have the RE LA on one of my cherokees and that drives 200% better than my other rig with a 4.5 sa setup.

Does caster matter that much on the dirt? I know it makes a diff on the street, but if the suspension is cycling on dirt with radius arms does it really create that much of a handling nightmare?

DOes anyone get DW with their TNT or FT kits?

TNT clearly rocks with the clearance issue, but what handles better? I do alot of on the road driving and do moderate trails cause i cant break my new DD.
 
javik said:
im really not trying to beat the dead horse, But im trying to decide between the FT kit or the TNT kit and its a tough choice. WHEN is capnt NEMO going to chime in again? My new rig is going to be doing alot of DD and 1000mile trips and i want good handling with no DW. It really freaks the wife out when shes driving.

So FT is what the top jeepspeeders are using?

Does TNT really suck that bad on the road? I currently have the RE LA on one of my cherokees and that drives 200% better than my other rig with a 4.5 sa setup.

Does caster matter that much on the dirt? I know it makes a diff on the street, but if the suspension is cycling on dirt with radius arms does it really create that much of a handling nightmare?

DOes anyone get DW with their TNT or FT kits?

TNT clearly rocks with the clearance issue, but what handles better? I do alot of on the road driving and do moderate trails cause i cant break my new DD.


I've been laying low while the arguing was going on. Don't care to get involved. There's far too many experts to decide whose side to take.

Re-read the thread and search others to decide for yourself what is best for you. Both the FT and TnT kits have performed the same for me so far. Same stopping feel, acceleration feel, drive over bumps feel, flex feel, etc...

I drove up to the snow this weekend which netted approximately 300 road miles. Thirty or so miles were on unpaved roads with about 8 inches of snow covering. I puposely kept it in two wheel drive and was able to powerslide around turns and break loose the back to feel how the rig would react. I was able to control it the same as I did down in Johnson Valley with the FT kit in the loose sand. No difference.

In the deep snow, neither kit would have made a difference. Deep snow grab the entire vehicle all at once if you loose wheel speed... :)

cherrylake1.jpg
 
thx NEMO. I read it twice, i was just looking for your responce or something as good. Im not trying to spark argument, but if you say for all practical purposes the tnt handles as good as the FT, then tnt it is unless anyone else who has long term tested both kits has anything to say about it.

Now i just got to convince the wife
 
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