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Long arm brands?

Thanks a bunch for all the great replies! The kit from DPG was the OME version and he claimed it rode as good or better than a long arm kit.
I've definitely got my work cut out for me finding what I want....More than likely I'll probably end up changing things down the road no matter what so I guess I won't beat myself up too bad.
That's the way my 71 duster project went. Now I love it, but it's not even close to how I started it back in 2004!!

I did check out BDS and they are on my list to look closely at. Thanks for the feedback!!

I've looked at IronMan suspension products alot, and they seem to be very BEEFY and built for longevity....has anyone run their arms?
I will be running Bilstien shocks, I will run JKS quicker disconnects, extended brake lines, bump stops...

I'm actually thinking about just adding aussie lockers front and rear, 30" tires and the bilstien shocks for now and see how it performs. I'm not looking forward to regearing but I know I'll have to with 32-33" tires. At least this way the tires are the only thing I won't be able to reuse once I lift it.

Last thing...if Rubicon Express comes back online, should I look at their kits even though they've had issues lately????
 
I've been trying to make the same decision as you with similar usage requirements.

I was almost sold on a TnT Customs suspension system. However, they use RE flex joints and appear to be in limbo until RE completes their 'reorganization'. Which is TBD.

Now I'm looking at BDS again but still debating piecing something together as suggested by many. I even briefly wondered if an AEV Nth Degree suspension system could be modified to work for an XJ. It was a fleeting thought.

Luckily, I have plenty of time to decide. I still have a lot to learn too.
 
Look at:

Clayton

Rock Krawler (with 4 link option)

Ironman 4x4 (you will need a seperate X-Member... he uses currie JJ)

OR with that much lift lower cost option (smoot ride!):

Rough Country Drop brackets

Adjustable lowers and uppers from who ever (RC, Currie, RK, RE, Etc...)
 
Look at:

Clayton

Rock Krawler (with 4 link option)

Ironman 4x4 (you will need a seperate X-Member... he uses currie JJ)

OR with that much lift lower cost option (smoot ride!):

Rough Country Drop brackets

Adjustable lowers and uppers from who ever (RC, Currie, RK, RE, Etc...)
With the drop brackets and adj. arms do I still need the front springs or can I use JKS front coil spring adjusters for lift?
 
I would go ahead and get a set of lift coils

they will be cheaper than the JKS spacers and will ride better compared to a spacer with stock coils

like an OME 2 inch coil or skyjacker 3-4 inch coil would be good choices... RC also makes a decnt coil for cheaper... same with rustys
 
So with 2" front coils, 2" OME springs, relocated brake lines and adj. arms what kind of ride can I expect? Do I still need a SYE or can I get away without one?
Transfercase??? a 2" lift isn't much but it would be OK for a couple of years and I could stay with 30" tires and not have to regear. Am I forgetting anything????

Thanks again for all the help...very nice to get HELP and no DRAMA!!

Brian
 
what year jeep will effect if you need a sye or not... early model, no. late model. yes.

what engine shop do you work at? welcome to the forum.
 
Frank Z/ Serious offroad has a longarm upgrade kit with crossmember/t-case skid. Something to consider if you piece together a lift.
If I were to piece together a lift, this is what I would do.
OME 934 coils/ JKS ACOS in front, OME 2" HD leafs in rear, HD offoad shackle relocation boxes/whatever shackles you want to even out lift, BIlstein 5160s front/5125 rear, longarm upgrade.
 
So with 2" front coils, 2" OME springs, relocated brake lines and adj. arms what kind of ride can I expect? Do I still need a SYE or can I get away without one?
Transfercase??? a 2" lift isn't much but it would be OK for a couple of years and I could stay with 30" tires and not have to regear. Am I forgetting anything????

Thanks again for all the help...very nice to get HELP and no DRAMA!!

Brian

Sounds like a solid plan. Adjustable arms wouldn't help the ride really at all, just a stronger design and more castor control. At 2" stock arms will be fine, (unless you plan on wheeling it hard enough to bent the control send...) just get a good alignment after the install.

At 2" you shouldn't need a sye. But if you get into the 3" range down the road you should get one for sure. Depending on which transfer case you have there are different options for sye kits. Easy way to tell is if your 4x4 shifted has a "full-time" option on it. If so, you have a 242, if it is devoid if the "full-time" option you have a 231. Less aftermarket support further 242, but lots for the 231. I'm a big fan of tom woods and his sye/driveshaft kit either way, I've installed both a 242 and a 231 kit from him and I've been very pleased. Great people to work with.

And I think you could easily go 31s without needing to regear, if you wanted to.
 
If I did go with a 3", would it be just as much trouble as going to a 4.5"?
When should I make changes to the steering?
 
If I did go with a 3", would it be just as much trouble as going to a 4.5"?
When should I make changes to the steering?

At 4.5 I would suggest going to a long arm. 3 would probably still be ok with a short arm. Both 3 and 4.5 should include a sye though. In mt opinion anyways.

Steering upgrading is more to do with tire size than lift size. Because of the added stress of larger tires mostly. I would suggest upgrading your steering sometime before it breaks on the trail. Haha I still have the stock steering and I'm on 35s... I've broken one drag link coming down Moab rim... But I'm holding off on steering until I build my custom front axle because it will also need custom steering. So I would say upgrade it as soon as possible, but its not technically required for any certain lift size.
 
My buddy has rock krawlers 3 link..... oh em gee that stuff is massive! rides amazing and flexes just like any other 3 link out there. I have their trackbar and bracket and I LOVE their stuff, they use huge joints and their arms are freakin solid and 2 inches in diameter.


So it flexes just like a radius arm set up ,but with 1 extra arm holding the axle to the rig .lol
 
peice together your own kit, thats what I did and I went with a RC longarm upgrade, it rides great and has done well offroad granted I'm not hardcore.
 
If I were building a new jeep I would use a clayton crossmember with ironman4x4fab arms.
 
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