Fantobacon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- N.C.
your kit didn't come with a trans case kit?
the one i am looking at getting comes with that, what kit did you install?
the one i am looking at getting comes with that, what kit did you install?
-
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Lift installed....after a week vibes surfacing
- Thread starter BIGSLVRXJ
- Start date
BIGSLVRXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Des Moines, Iowa
RE 3.5 Superflex it didn't come with one, no.
Beachmonkey6
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
yea mine was clickin ... but it wasnt a grrr sound... it ended up bein that the shaft ears were making contact with the shaft at the front u joint of the rearshaft. It went away after about 2 weeks... which i dont know is a good thing or not... but i did a Tcase drop anyways... and they havnt been back.
BIGSLVRXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Des Moines, Iowa
Beachmonkey6 said:
Yeah I think I'll be doing a T-Case drop real soon. The vibes actually seem to be going away a little,I think I need to start sandbagging the back end,that will help those springs settle a little bit. Thanks again everyone you guys have been a huge help.
George2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
You've got more "issues" than you're aware of...
The "Grrr!" is coming from the t-case. I dropped mine 1", and then added 6* shims. While the driveshaft was down, I pulled out the slip yoke, and changed the seal, since it was leaking like a stuck pig.
You might think this is stupid, but it's cheap, so try it at least...
1. Drop the t-case 1". You can do this on the cheap with Home Depot parts, so there's no excuse for not trying it- I shimmed my diff to match the angles better, but even AFTER dropping the T-Case, I had an ugly angle at my case! I'll be putting the T-Case back up after I install the new driveshaft and hard yoke, after Income Tax time...
2. Change the U-Joints. Mine had the zerk fittings, and were heavy-duty due to the "towing Option" I had when built... the "Grrrr" is coming from the yoke moving, even on the road. The suspension flexes a little when driving, so... Mine were dry and worn, even after pumping them full of grease!
3. Shims. I used 6* shims for a 4.5" lift, which actually turned out to be 6.25" in the rear (I used RE 4.5" leafs, which take FOREVER to sag down) I've driven around a whole summer pulling a pop-up trailer, and those damn springs just will NOT sag down! I have since had to "puck" my front springs up 1.5", just to keep the Jeep from having a dragster "rake" in the front. I only wanted 4.5" of lift when I started, but I'm having to do everything else up, just to make up the 6" of lift I GOT with the RE rear springs. Once they sag, I guess I'll be adding shakles to get the back up to match the front.
4. When putting everything back together, pump the yoke hole FULL of grease! This is the MOST important point! What looks like the majority of grease will spooge out of the yoke, but you'll notice that the yoke was DRY when you pulled it out- the "Grrr" is from the dry yoke moving back and forth! The grease helps, but you're still into...
5. Make financial plans to buy a "hard-yoke" and new double joint CV style driveshaft. That alone is the ONLY true cure for the grumbling you hear from the "on/off" throttle noise you hear.
Sorry I didn't offer happy news, but I'm right in there with you man! I LOVE my new lift, but it brought a whole NEW can of worms with it!
Right now, we're living with it- but there's more to do. Sorry!
The "Grrr!" is coming from the t-case. I dropped mine 1", and then added 6* shims. While the driveshaft was down, I pulled out the slip yoke, and changed the seal, since it was leaking like a stuck pig.
You might think this is stupid, but it's cheap, so try it at least...
1. Drop the t-case 1". You can do this on the cheap with Home Depot parts, so there's no excuse for not trying it- I shimmed my diff to match the angles better, but even AFTER dropping the T-Case, I had an ugly angle at my case! I'll be putting the T-Case back up after I install the new driveshaft and hard yoke, after Income Tax time...
2. Change the U-Joints. Mine had the zerk fittings, and were heavy-duty due to the "towing Option" I had when built... the "Grrrr" is coming from the yoke moving, even on the road. The suspension flexes a little when driving, so... Mine were dry and worn, even after pumping them full of grease!
3. Shims. I used 6* shims for a 4.5" lift, which actually turned out to be 6.25" in the rear (I used RE 4.5" leafs, which take FOREVER to sag down) I've driven around a whole summer pulling a pop-up trailer, and those damn springs just will NOT sag down! I have since had to "puck" my front springs up 1.5", just to keep the Jeep from having a dragster "rake" in the front. I only wanted 4.5" of lift when I started, but I'm having to do everything else up, just to make up the 6" of lift I GOT with the RE rear springs. Once they sag, I guess I'll be adding shakles to get the back up to match the front.
4. When putting everything back together, pump the yoke hole FULL of grease! This is the MOST important point! What looks like the majority of grease will spooge out of the yoke, but you'll notice that the yoke was DRY when you pulled it out- the "Grrr" is from the dry yoke moving back and forth! The grease helps, but you're still into...
5. Make financial plans to buy a "hard-yoke" and new double joint CV style driveshaft. That alone is the ONLY true cure for the grumbling you hear from the "on/off" throttle noise you hear.
Sorry I didn't offer happy news, but I'm right in there with you man! I LOVE my new lift, but it brought a whole NEW can of worms with it!
Right now, we're living with it- but there's more to do. Sorry!
BIGSLVRXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Des Moines, Iowa
George2 said:
I didn't make this thread to have the truth sugarcoated, I appreciate the info. I'll start off with the T-Case drop and then U-Joints,we'll see how far I have to go after that.
crookedletterd
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, Or
Save yourself the trouble, and spend some time learning about driveline angles. This is a good site http://4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
Buy yourself an angle finder and go at it from there. Numbers don't lie.
Buy yourself an angle finder and go at it from there. Numbers don't lie.
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