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Junkyard upgrades

My understanding is that if you swap the mounting brackets the newer seats will fit in the older. I too need a new seat but having a 2-door bites when it comes to finding seats.

Also, if you can weld, you cold fab a bracket to fit most any set to fit.

I have the same problem. My 2dr XJ actually already had 4dr seats in it when I got it.. every J-yard 2 door seat I've found has been trashed... so I'm stuck with ppl not being able to get to the rear seat.
 
But is the front DS off a ranger longer or shorter than the front DS off of a AW4 XJ? I have an AX-15 so once I do my SYE I will probably need just about the longest JY front that fits (I heard that a V8 ZJ front DS is long enough to run on the rear of an AX-15 w/ 4.5" lift... but if the ranger is a touch longer that the ZJ even, it may be good.)

the shank on the ds had a longer spline portion so we made a hybread if memory serves. it was like 2" longer than stock. hope this helps
 
we used the male portion from the ranger and a stock xj ds female portion
 
you may be better off finding a non u-pick-it type yard. We have one place that buys rigs and strips them and puts everything on shelves in a warehouse. they have lots of seats. or watch craig's list for people parting. I'm in the 2-door boat too but my seats aren't too bad yet.
 
X2, seats in a u-pull-it are a disaster because no one has respect for the parts. Unless you're the first or MAYBE the second guy to look at the vehicle they're gonna be covered with grime and mud, and people leave the doors open / windows down so they'll be soaking wet after the first rain as well. Wait for a part-out or go to a junkyard that catalogs their inventory and pulls parts for you, you'll pay more on the latter but you get guaranteed quality.
 
a few JY upgrades i dont think have been covered .
ford 5.0L yellow injectors for renix motors they have 4 holes compared to the renix 1 hole
if you plan on using a 2 speed taurus fan , instead of screwing around with loads of relays newer volvos have a 2 speed fan relay that do all the switching internally ,all you need is a integrated hi/low thermoswitch and some vw/audi cars have them .
the relay looks like this http://www.davebarton.com/9442933relay.jpg
make sure to get as much wire as possible with the jy relay to make it easier to wire

TaurusWire.png


for MJ guys look for over head consoles on xjs with sunroofs , no more trimming down full size ones .

always look for ambulances , they have tonnes of wicked parts including HD relays , junction blocks , wiring , lights fuse blocks , look under too , they have all HD parts that you might be able to use .
 
I have sort of a junkyard-related question. I've heard you can use an XJ front driveshaft when converting to a hack n' tap SYE. My question is, is the strength of that shaft fine for long-term use? Or are there any other junkyard-worthy vehicles out there with a better rear double-cardan CV style driveshaft better suited for that SYE? Thanks.
 
I am really interested in the idea of using the Ford Ranger/Explorer's front driveshaft as it's possible to be 2" longer so that would be perfect for what i need for my rear driveshaft (i had to extend it 2")
 
I have the same problem. My 2dr XJ actually already had 4dr seats in it when I got it.. every J-yard 2 door seat I've found has been trashed... so I'm stuck with ppl not being able to get to the rear seat.

The Mustang seats out of the 90s (forgot which years exactly) are supposed to be an easy adapt to the 2-dr XJ seat pedestals. "Fox" body comes to mind, but not sure. Edit: Fox body are 79-93.
 
if you plan on using a 2 speed taurus fan , instead of screwing around with loads of relays newer volvos have a 2 speed fan relay that do all the switching internally ,all you need is a integrated hi/low thermoswitch and some vw/audi cars have them. the relay looks like this http://www.davebarton.com/9442933relay.jpg . Make sure to get as much wire as possible with the jy relay to make it easier to wire

I found a few Volvos at the yard today and grabbed a relay for $5. Forgot to look for a VW/Audi for the thermo switch. I did find them here for about $24:

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/volkswagen-quantum/thermo-fan-switch/#1984

I need to find specs on the relay to make sure it's rated high enough for the high speed side.
 
I am really interested in the idea of using the Ford Ranger/Explorer's front driveshaft as it's possible to be 2" longer so that would be perfect for what i need for my rear driveshaft (i had to extend it 2")

if my memory serves me. i can't double check right now becuase i am in the desert! but that is what i used. i used the main male portion of the ranger becuase the spline on the end of it was much longer and then used the female portion off of another jeep we had laying around. i have 4" of lift and sye it fit perfect. i don't how strong it is but it aint broke yet!
 
if my memory serves me. i can't double check right now becuase i am in the desert! but that is what i used. i used the main male portion of the ranger becuase the spline on the end of it was much longer and then used the female portion off of another jeep we had laying around. i have 4" of lift and sye it fit perfect. i don't how strong it is but it aint broke yet!

Once you get back, got a few questions:

First (assuming your Jeep is an XJ): What year is yours?

What XJ shaft did you use? (I assume a front shaft from an automatic XJ? What year did the d.s. come from?)
 
i have a 2000 cherokee aw4 tanny. the ranger portion of the drive shaft came of a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 v6. the female portion i found in our pyle or part area of the bull pin. so i am not sure of what it was probably a cj? sorry wish i could help more
 
I haven't read thru all 23 pages of this super thread, but here's another good junkyard upgrade, the 93-98 ZJ steering box. All the 92-1/2 to 98 ZJs boxes had a quicker steering ratio than our XJ/MJ boxes (12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1) and are bolt-in. The quicker steering is much more responsive on the road. My MJ handles almost like a sportscar now. :clap: Also the ZJ Pitman arm drops about an inch lower than the stock XJ/MJ arm; very useful on lifts over 4" or so to correct the drag link / track bar geometry.
 
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