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Jeep went wacky.

RCP Phx said:
I'd pull the valve cover and check to see if the rocker arms have backed off!
Click to expand...



Pulled it off and made sure everything was tight. Really leaning towards either my timing is out or valve tick or piston slap.

Trying to think why it wouldn't want to start first try though. Really hoping not a compression issue.


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really sounds like its not firing on all 6. but it does have that ticking. also check the tightness of the manifold bolts. they can loosen up and cause issues. how do the spark plugs look now? are they wet?

and this happened when you where driving it. did it happen slowly or was it getting worse as you drove?
 
90xj06 said:
really sounds like its not firing on all 6. but it does have that ticking. also check the tightness of the manifold bolts. they can loosen up and cause issues. how do the spark plugs look now? are they wet?

and this happened when you where driving it. did it happen slowly or was it getting worse as you drove?
Click to expand...



Ran amazing. Drove an hour. Started misfiring and within 3miles shut itself down. And all the issues started.


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90xj06 said:
really sounds like its not firing on all 6. but it does have that ticking. also check the tightness of the manifold bolts. they can loosen up and cause issues. how do the spark plugs look now? are they wet?

and this happened when you where driving it. did it happen slowly or was it getting worse as you drove?
Click to expand...



I don't think it's firing on all 6 either. Intake or exhaust mani bolts? I will check the plugs this evening and let you know. I think I may have the timing a bit off but I put it directly back where it was with the old cap&rotor


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is your map sensor hooked up. i cant see the hose. and it sounds like it has a vacuum leak. it has that sucking sound when you rev it up. map sensor is above the valve cover with the green connector. the hose should run down the the throttle body to a rubber plug with 2 ports. one is plugged and the other is where the hose should go.
 
It's hard to tell anything from a video! But, with that said it sounds like a collapsed lifter(s) to me.

1-Your oil pressure gauge looks very confusing, so I would at least get it confirmed.
2-Take a "sounding" with a long piece of pipe or rod on the.............
A-valve cover
B-Just below the head on the pass side where the lifters are
C-The bottom of the block on the driver side where the mains/rod are
 
RCP Phx said:
It's hard to tell anything from a video! But, with that said it sounds like a collapsed lifter(s) to me.



1-Your oil pressure gauge looks very confusing, so I would at least get it confirmed.

2-Take a "sounding" with a long piece of pipe or rod on the.............

A-valve cover

B-Just below the head on the pass side where the lifters are

C-The bottom of the block on the driver side where the mains/rod are
Click to expand...



What's confusing about it? It holds at like a steady 60 when running but I probably need to change the oil again since the stuff I was told to put in to help flush everything out is rather thick.

I'll do a sounding tonight. Or at lunch and post results.

If it's just lifters are they hard to replace? Or would I be better off replacing them instead of just getting a junkyard head.


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90xj06 said:
is your map sensor hooked up. i cant see the hose. and it sounds like it has a vacuum leak. it has that sucking sound when you rev it up. map sensor is above the valve cover with the green connector. the hose should run down the the throttle body to a rubber plug with 2 ports. one is plugged and the other is where the hose should go.
Click to expand...


I'll look at lunch, I'm wanting to replace ALL vacuum lines but have no idea where to even start.




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SexJ1988 said:
What's confusing about it? It holds at like a steady 60 when running but I probably need to change the oil again since the stuff I was told to put in to help flush everything out is rather thick.
If it's just lifters are they hard to replace? Or would I be better off replacing them instead of just getting a junkyard head.
Click to expand...

You just bought a 28yr old Jeep w/ 266k miles on it! Besides the fact the gauge was reading 50-60 when the engine wasn't running and it was 50-60 when started, how many motors of that age do that?

Getting at the lifters require removing the head and are not part of it!
 
RCP Phx said:
You just bought a 28yr old Jeep w/ 266k miles on it! Besides the fact the gauge was reading 50-60 when the engine wasn't running and it was 50-60 when started, how many motors of that age do that?

Getting at the lifters require removing the head and are not part of it!
Click to expand...
The gauges seem to stay at the last reading when keyed off. My 1990 does it and so does the 88 that I just got.

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It had already been running before I took that video, and I wasn't sure lol like I stated before I'm new to jeeps and only semi mechanically inclined but I'm all about learning.


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What stuff did you put in that oil.

I have had that exact sound off an on for 70,000 miles on 289,000 mile 78 Wagoneer, 4.0

I fixed it finally by adding a quart of MMO, Marvel Mystery oil and running the warmed up engine for about 2 minutes at 4000 rpm. That forces the stuck lifters to rotate again and frees them up, and gets rid of the noise, except if the engine sits a while and you start it in very cold weather, then the noise will return till it warms up and you do the 4000 rpm for 1-2 minutes trick again.

Can you post photos of plug #1, #2 and say #4 for us to read them?

What exactly is it doing now? Have the symptoms changed any?

I think the ticking noise up front is a distraction, not the cause, but may be due to miss fires in cyl 1 and 2 and unburned gas in those cylinders killing the compression and spark. Are the 1 and 2 plugs oil fouled???

Fouled plugs, bad plug wires on those two, criss crossed plug wires or injector pig tails criss crossed, or stuck open injectors could be the issue.

Also check the vacuum line that goes from the lower side of the throttle body directly to the MAP sensor on the firewall. It is common for it come loose at the throttle body and cause the engine to run very rough.

Also, for the start sequence, try to switch the key to run for 5 seconds, then off, then on, then off, then try to start it.

Pull the vacuum line at the side of the FPR, Fuel pressure regulator on the front of the fuel rail that is attached to all the fuel injectors and see if there is any sign of wet fuel or fuel odor. If there is the FPR is leaking fuel into the vacuum and bypassing the injectors.

Keep in mind as you go that you may fix the original problem and later find you created a new problem in debugging process by criss crossing wires or bumping the wiring harness witch may have a loose connection inside in the harness....etc. And thus you may not realize you fixed the original problem. There are sensor grounds in the harness that are notorious for getting loose after all these years that cause the sensor grounds to come and go with vibration or movement as you work on it.

These year jeeps, Renix, 1987-90 are notorious for poor grounds that cause all sorts of starting and running issues.

There is a ballast resistor on the drivers side firewall that can cause fuel pump power issues. You should get a fuel pressure tester and test the fuel pressure while running, with the vacuum line attached and removed from the FPR (see the FSM instructions or old posts here, should get 29-39 psi depending on the vac line connection). Also watch the fuel pressure when you turn the engine off, Does it drop to zero or slowly bleed off to zero??? If yes you have a leaking injector or bad FPR.

Also check the fuel pressure before you crank the engine.

Post up all your results.



SexJ1988 said:
What's confusing about it? It holds at like a steady 60 when running but I probably need to change the oil again since the stuff I was told to put in to help flush everything out is rather thick.

I'll do a sounding tonight. Or at lunch and post results.

If it's just lifters are they hard to replace? Or would I be better off replacing them instead of just getting a junkyard head.


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Click to expand...
 
I'll do a cold start video when I get home. I need to figure out how to adjust the distributor to make sure it's in time and not 180* out


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RCP Phx said:
You just bought a 28yr old Jeep w/ 266k miles on it! Besides the fact the gauge was reading 50-60 when the engine wasn't running and it was 50-60 when started, how many motors of that age do that?

Getting at the lifters require removing the head and are not part of it!
Click to expand...

If that is correct, he may have a ground wire issue as I suggested, which is common with Renix era jeeps. Mine starts at 50 psi. 289,000 miles. And as I recall some of the gauges freeze at the last reading when I cut off the power. I forget which ones they are and which Renix jeeps they are, but they zero out in the pre crank run position then act normally while the engine is running.
 
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