JCR slider fitment issues What would you do?

[FrankH]

Hi there, new Colorado member here. :wave1:

I've got a Black '98 Classic that I just finished putting a budget boost on.

About a month ago I purchased some JCR rock sliders from an add on colorado4x4.org. They were built for a long arm set up, so I knew the would be a little weird, and I might have to make some spacer plates. But now that I am getting ready to install them I see that it might be a little harder than I originally thought.

The passenger side fits just fine, no adjustment needed.

But the driver's side is really off, when I clamp it against the pinch seam, the rear mounting leg is on the frame rail but the front one looks like this:

Not only is it way to short, but it is at a funky angle, with the closest 3/8" away from the frame rail and the farthest 5/8" away.

What would you guys do to fix this? I don't have access to a welder, but I could make some spacer plates. But the problem is they would have to be really thick, and tapered. I could take it to a shop or if thats too expensive just sell them to some one with better tools than me and order some new ones. Any ideas?

Heres a pic of my jeep with the budget boost on...

And some pics of the LCA's for Skully:

 

[Beezle]

I have JCR sliders also, not for a long arm kit but they look like yours. i had some fitment issues similar to yours also..Im not sure if they were as off as those are but i just drilled the holes and wrenched on the self-tapping screws and let them suck it up to the unibody. It worked fine, you just have to be real carefull not to strip the holes out and tighten the bolts evenly. ive abused them pretty good and havent had any problems.
May not be "factory approved" but it worked for me.

 

[.40CalPatriot]

Maybe if FrankZ didnt mind working on somelses slidder product you could have him make some new mounts at the correct length.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Welcome to the wonderful world of unibody variables.

I've installed several sets of rock rails and not a one of 'em fit right. The only pair that did were ones that were built using that particular XJ as the template.

Hard to tell from the photo...... what is the measurement of that gap? If it's 1/2" or less, you may be able to close that gap by simply adjusting the pinch seam with block of wood and hammer - smacking it inwards progressively toward the front.

Otherwise, having someone cut you a spacer would work as well - getting it a bit thicker than the gap, then using a grinder to form the taper needed.

 

[FrankH]

Here are some closer pictures with the tape measure:

Larger side:

Smaller side:

You guys think that that it I "modify" the pinch seam a little, that these will suck in to the frame rail enough to run?

 

[Beezle]

I would think so, Do you have plenty of pinch seam for the bolts that go thru the slider?
depending on how much you modify i would double check those holes too..i didnt have much room on the pinch seam on mine.

 

[Hypoid]

Hammerlove, of the BFH kind! Ball-peen love just won't be enough for this one.

I wouldn't hesitate to adjust the slider, but I have the means to cut/bend/weld and I'm not skeered. My better half hasn't told me what I'm doing this weekend, so I may be able to help out.

 

[Skully]

I would take Yella's suggestion and set it in place maybe even attach the rear loosely and attach the pinch seam then use wood and a hammer to close the gap a little if you can. If you need a spacer still, figure out what you need, and then attach. I have some half inch steel laying around somewhere?!

The LCA's look good but that end is bugging me, it is strong with the .250 wall 1 1/2 as the main piece don't get me wrong but I wish I would have put a collar around the little gap between the Joint and the 1 3/4 tube sleeve and welded it up for cosmetic look. Hope you are happy!

Let me know if you need any help! I am limited time wise but you are welcome to come over and I can teach you to use the Plasma cutter and cut out a spacer! :laugh3:

 

[xjnco]

After you get the rails snugged up to the pinch seam with the bolts, do some spot welds
between the bolts to keep he metal together. Then you won't have to worry about striping threads on the teail. Don't make the spots to large so the welds can be cut out for future mods

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

A chopsaw/plasma and welder are your friend!! :loveu: I had to modify mine after my longarm install........... get busy!!

 

[Frank Z]

Question.
It looks like there's a support that goes against the pinch seam, have you tried locating the slider so that it mates to the inboard side of the pinch seam?

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

Depending on the LA setup, the forward mount may have been bolted to the LCA mound which would explain the gap!

 

[garr]

I would Fab Up a couple of spacers to close the gap.

 

[FrankH]

Well I bolted them up and whacked them with a wood block and hammer. And then tightened them down as much as I could and here is the result.

Much closer than before. Can I just put a few washers in there and call it a day? Or should I still bother with a spacer?

 

[Frank Z]

Are those Self-Tapers? If so, they ain't gonna last.

 

[FrankH]

Yes the JCR sliders mount with self tapping bolts. Is there a better way to mount them than this?

 

[Hugothegrunt]

yep, 5" to 5 1/2" bolts of the 3/8" or 1/2" variety (check you hole size, 3/8 IIRC), plate on the inside of the frame rail and Nylocs with washers.

 

[Frank Z]

Hugo is freakin' Brilliant!

 

[Hugothegrunt]

Look Frank, I did learn somethin!

 

[FrankH]

So your saying just drill through the other side of the frame rail and put bolts all the way through? Would I need sleeves on the inside of the framerail?