Interchangable Diffs

[Ritter4.0]

I thought TJs were narrower. So I can just go out and get a TJ Rubi axle and it will just bolt right in?

 

[Begster]

No they aren't narrower. Yes it is bolt in, but you will have a low pinion D44 center section with D30 everything else, and you most likely will be better off with your HP30.

 

[whitexj98]

I remember looking at a jeep on eBay a few years back, the guy had took out the rear seat and made brackets to hold complete front and rear spare axles!

 

[AwesomeXJ]

:gee:

NO!
I would be easier and would take up less space to carry an entire axle, rather than all the tools to set up gears. Not to mention the time it would take to do so. You need a press to press on and off bearings, inch pound torque wrenches to set preload, dial indicators to check bachlash.

You can't just unbolt gears, then bolt them in.

This is a third member. Specific axles use this, and it just bolts in.

TJ axles are the same mounting as XJ's. JK's are not.

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Ok I stand corrected.......... just forget what i said.....Carry on

 

[Ritter4.0]

Well, my front axle is a disco....so when money allows, I'm gonna replace it, but I guess I will go with plan A and get an HPD30 from a 97+. I'm still up in the air about a 97+ C8.25 or a Ford 8.8 though.

 

[kastein]

I remember looking at a jeep on eBay a few years back, the guy had took out the rear seat and made brackets to hold complete front and rear spare axles!

In the last month I've carried a spare rear axle and a spare front axle. Not at the same time though, and it was because I couldn't find anyone to help me unload them out of the trunk and was too lazy to do it alone :gee:

Well, my front axle is a disco....so when money allows, I'm gonna replace it, but I guess I will go with plan A and get an HPD30 from a 97+. I'm still up in the air about a 97+ C8.25 or a Ford 8.8 though.

Just curious, why a 97+ HPD30? Anything after 90/91/92/93 (forget which, someone more familiar with axles will know off the top of their head) has no vac disconnect to get in the way/weaken the housing, and the LPD30 was introduced in 00. Unless you're just looking for the stronger shafts/U-joints you are artificially narrowing your parts junker year range, I think. Definitely agree on the 8.25 or 8.8 though, personally I'm doing an 8.8 as I couldn't find an 8.25 with 4.10s and figure this way I get disc brakes and a slightly stronger axle for free.

 

[Ritter4.0]

Because if I get the rear axle from a 97+ I may as well grab the front (97-99) too, and for the bigger U-joints. But the 8.8 is sounding better everyday, and by the time I have that much money my welding skills will be better. Either way the axles I put in will be re-geared and rebuilt possibly trussed too, so it will take a while, but I will have an entirely "new" suspension.