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Important

Where do you usually go in Iowa?
Easter... So late April... Not sure if I will be there yet. Hmm...
I have to get to Sheffield and get situated/start making money before I even think of getting a 60 from Ken, doubt itll be that early. Fastenal is still sounding like the best bet for me if there is a place local to him willing to ship and Mason City is willing to let me pick up.
we have a fastenal right her in town
 
So you are saying to just leave the stock 15 amp breaker and install the 30 amp breaker next to it and just run a 30 amp outlet off of it?

I can't give real specific advice since I don't know a ton about RV wiring specifically. Does your circuit panel in the camper only have space one breaker? If so then you can't just replace that with a larger breaker, you really need a larger panel with extra slots in it. Then you could have a 15 amp breaker for your existing wiring and add a second 15 amp for a dedicated outlet.

You would still want to upgrade your shore power cord to 10 gauge so it's adequately protected by the 30 amp breaker that a campground will have.
 
Well got a question for some of the electrically smart people on here. Our pop up camper has got a 15amp circuit breaker in it and am thinking of upgrading it to a 30 amp breaker. If I do this will I also have to upgrade the wiring that goes to the electrical outlets in the camper? Just trying to get this ready for wf and was wondering if this would be a good idea or not. Got a buddy that has the 30 amp breaker with cord that would sell it for cheap.

If you change the breaker from a 15 to a 30 you run the risk of burning up the camper.
I assume that it has aluminum wiring in it anyway, most older ones do.
The wire will get hot and burn the insulation off of it and at best will stink the place up and leave you with no electricity at all rendering your pop up useless because it will cost more to fix that it is worth, and at worst burn up in the middle of the night and killing you and everyone inside.

Get another extension cord and run it in through the door or some other opening to run your heater.
 
You camping people who want to run electric heat in your rigs need one of these
09544_01_0012_500.jpg

Found here,
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Coleman-Cable/09544.html
or your local RV store.
Then plug one these in to that.
G8HHS1K3HW1Y.jpg

Then run separate extension cords to the people on your site to run their heaters. Only run three heaters, one per extension cord of the breaker will pop in the night.
 
Lets learn something about electricity today.
A normal heater is 1000 to 1500 watts.
watts\volts=amps
all of the 30 and 15 amp pedestals are 120 volts, on a good day...
divide 1500 by 120 and you get 12.5 amps, pretty close to the 15 max you will get out of a good breaker.
Now with everyone plugged in to the power the voltage will drop by as much as 10%, maybe more.
Now we are down to 108 volts raising the amp draw even more.
The more times a breaker is tripped the less it takes to trip it again so it becomes weak and trips easier.
If you get the above set up you can run 2 1500 watt heaters or three 1000 watt heater from one pedestal with out tripping the breaker or burning down your pop up!
 
A resistive heater won't draw more current when the voltage goes down, it will draw less, because V=IR, but you are still getting less heat. What you said does however apply to electric motors, when they fall out of synchronous mode because they are overloaded or undervolted the current draw spikes significantly.

Heaters are (iirc) limited to 1440 watts constant draw because you aren't supposed to load a breaker over ~80%, like you said.
 
The breaker panel in our pop up now has got 2-15amp breakers on it. I was looking at picking up a 30 breaker panel with the shore cord and everything. What about just installing this 30 amp panel next to the one that's in the and just running a couple dedicated 30amp outlets inside the camper? Then I can just leave the 15 amp side alone.
 
Re: Re: Important

we have a fastenal right her in town

I know.


the main thing is finding out if both stores are willing to send/receive and have forklifts.


Let me know how much that costs you 89Laredo. I have a fastenal close by.
K. It'll be a while.
 
A resistive heater won't draw more current when the voltage goes down, it will draw less, because V=IR, but you are still getting less heat. What you said does however apply to electric motors, when they fall out of synchronous mode because they are overloaded or undervolted the current draw spikes significantly.

Heaters are (iirc) limited to 1440 watts constant draw because you aren't supposed to load a breaker over ~80%, like you said.
 
Thanks everyone for helping me understand all this electrical junk. Had a blonde moment here at work reading all this but it just clicked. guess the main thing I was trying to accomplish was just making sure we are gonna be warm at wf and not be tripping breakers during the night when all the heaters are going.

We will be splitting a site with poorboy so I know he is gonna have a heater and we normally run 2 at night when it gets so cold out but normally just leave 1 on low during the day.
 
Alright, which one of you is winding me up on facebook? :spin1:
 
Man I hesitated and let a Low mileage 1 owner Xj in immaculate shape get sold to someone else for $2600. Would have been a great DD for my Ole'Lady.


Same here, Prime and NetFlix on the Wii. No cable or satellite, kids can run the Wii better than I can. Wife also streams Prime on her Kindle.
We stopped paying for cable years ago we used our xbox for Netflix and youtube for years and would Download anything we really wanted we couldn't find.
Now that I work from home I have a big screen hooked up up to a Pc with a wireless keyboard/mouse in my living room and it does it all in one spot!
 
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