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Hydrolock...still won't fire.

So, found myself a 97 4.0 with 76k miles (it was cheap, I am lucky) and last night ordered everything else I need. Have a hoist I can borrow in town and cleaned up the shed's workbench to rip the original head apart. Starting to think my May 1 goal is perfectly practical. Also, despite dropping about $650 so far, (motor, gas to get the motor, beer to cover the hoist and seals/gaskets/etc.) I'm pretty excited to have a nice clean and sealed motor in there once I'm done.

Thanks everyone for the help. No more stupid water crossings until I have the proper gear...aka a snorkel.
 
In disassembly... my intake ports seem to have carbon deposits under the injectors. While I'm here and the intake is out, should I replace or clean my injectors? Previously I think I was running a little rich, based on sticking my finger in the tailpipe, but I'd think I'd want the intake ports squeaky clean. Keep in mind there was about 168k on the clock- is this normal wear and tear?
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The picture is of #5, not the worst or the best looking of the 6.
 
that's not an unusually nasty amount of buildup.

They pretty much all look like that after 100k miles.

pull injectors, clean up the manifold, put it back together.
Replace the injectors if you feel like it, but they're probably not why you have all that nasty.
 
I've heard of people soaking the injectors in seafoam to clean them. not sure if it really makes a difference with that process
 
this is everything that needs to be done.

I'd also plan on taking your valve cover apart and cleaning all of the CCV tower bits.
It's a fun way to waste a few hours.

I'd also add timing cover gaskets to that list. You should inspect the chain anyway on a new to you motor.

In the process of prepping the new engine to drop in this weekend. I was replacing the valve cover gasket and noticed the CCV towers a little bit dirtier(?) than the ones on my engine I just blew up.

You had mentioned I could waste some time cleaning em- first question is a) what would I use to clean them and b) how do they get dirty in the first place- wear and tear? Just wondering if I should assess the reason they're not in as good of shape as the ones in my motor with 168k, (albeit my motor was in damn fine shape until I blew a hole in it). I'm literally just talking about some dark coloration on the towers, they aren't trashed by any means.

edit: I misunderstood what CCV meant... You're referring to the breathers, right? I think I'm referring to the valve lifters that become visible when the cover is removed.
 
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if you're just talking about discoloration, it could have been oil changed less frequently or a difference in brand, or any number of other factors.

if there isn't a ton of buildup, don't give them a second thought.
 
OK, getting ready to yank the engine out and reinstall the new one. Couple of questions for those of you who prefer pulling the entire drivetrain:

I know I need to pull the front end apart- but is it really as simple as just unbolting the driveshaft, x-member for the trans, linkages and motor mounts? Engine is completely alone with the exception of the motor mounts and bellhousing bolts.

I know I need to mount the hoist up prior to unbolting anything holding it in place, but is there anything I should be mindful of? I want to go this route so I'm not wrestling with the bellhousing bolts in my dirt driveway and can do so out in the open.
 
Update: I'm going to order a new clutch and put the install off until after I return from Shasta on May 9th, but still try and pull the old engine today/tomorrow. It just makes a million times more sense to do the clutch with the drivetrain out.
 
good call on the clutch.

yes, really is as simple as unbolting the trans mount, motor mounts linkages and wires.

no hidden stuff.
after you get it all in, the shifter is the last thing you should do. I made that mistake. Put it in so I could put the trans in gear to do a drivesahft, forgot about it, lowered the trans down to get at something on the top and broke the 3-4 shift fork. Sucked, because then I had to take apart two transmissions and pull the one I had just installed.

rookie mistake.

It's also far easier to just pour in 4 qts oil from the top than to use the fill plug. Assuming that your interior dust gasket is missing or destroyed (every one I've seen has been cut) a latex glove slips over the gear shifter and the wrist part will slip snugly over the shift tower. cheap fix for a rubber piece that's not available any more. Keeps the gear oil smells outside.
 
I would think that a nitrile glove might last longer.
 
maybe. I had a latex one on my MJ for a year with no issues.
current beater has a nitrile one.

whatevers kicking around the garage.
 
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