Hydrolock...still won't fire.

[old_man]

If it locked up, I would be worried about a busted rod.

Sometimes I hate it when I am right. :doh:

 

[notamos]

:doh: Umm. JB Weld.

 

[cal]

Whats your budget on a replacement motor?

If you locked up hard enough to do that, I wouldn't count on re-using anything out of your motor. *maybe* the head, but really, I'd just junk it all. Hydrolock causes a lot of stress to parts that will fail down the road, even though they look just perfect today.

 

[x1n54n3x]

I'd love to be able to get it running for around a grand. I understand I can find a replacement 4.0 with comparable or less mileage at a yard or on a parted out xj for less than half of that though. The stroker parts I mentioned before (still haven't heard back from they guy) are $500, minus whatever I can bargain, plus whatever else it needs.

The donor swap is probably the easiest, fastest and cheapest option, but I'd love the extra power and torque a stroker brings to the table, given I can get a deal on the ingredients.

 

[cal]

If you're going to do a stock cam and do no machine work, you can do it for around a grand.. otherwise forget it and buy a stock motor.


(I don't recommend trying to do it on a stock cam and with no machine work)

 

[x1n54n3x]

The Crane cam runs about $150, but that's for a short rod setup...which won't break my bank by itself. I haven't done much research into the long rod setup beyond the fact that I'll need custom pistons. I've never had any work done at a machine shop before, so that part of the budget is a bit over my head at the moment, but I definitely don't intend on half-assing a stroker build if I go that route. Would a donor motor, given it's in good condition, require machine work at any level, or is that more for rebuilding and/or building a modified engine?

What I'm gathering is, the most complete remedy would be a donor 4.0, and redo the gaskets and seals while it's out. The next step up would be a rebuild of a donor (I think this would only be an option if I found something really cheap that actually needed the work?), then a stroker build, then a crate motor, (too expensive, not even in my ballpark of options).

 

[x1n54n3x]

Just got off the phone with a buddy of mine who runs an offroad shop. He told me my money is best spent on another 4.0 that I clean up and after plenty of research and hearing the comments on here, I'm tending to agree with that. A modified engine that'll cost 3-4x as much for a few extra hp and torque numbers while tempting, just doesn't make sense unless I'm itching to burn cash and have tons of time on my hands. I'd rather get her back on the road and continue exploring this spring and summer, as opposed to having her sit until I save up and gather parts. It just makes more sense that way. Thanks for the help and the welcoming words everyone, this board is awesome.

 

[cal]

The Crane cam runs about $150, but that's for a short rod setup...which won't break my bank by itself. I haven't done much research into the long rod setup beyond the fact that I'll need custom pistons. I've never had any work done at a machine shop before, so that part of the budget is a bit over my head at the moment, but I definitely don't intend on half-assing a stroker build if I go that route. Would a donor motor, given it's in good condition, require machine work at any level, or is that more for rebuilding and/or building a modified engine?

What I'm gathering is, the most complete remedy would be a donor 4.0, and redo the gaskets and seals while it's out. The next step up would be a rebuild of a donor (I think this would only be an option if I found something really cheap that actually needed the work?), then a stroker build, then a crate motor, (too expensive, not even in my ballpark of options).

Its not the cam, its that there isn't really an affordable valve spring solution anymore. Mopar discontinued the 'bolt in' solution, so now you end up machining the valve guides, valve seats and spring seats, then running all Chevy LS stuff.

....although Russ and I are working on something that may change the we all do that.

 

[cal]

Just got off the phone with a buddy of mine who runs an offroad shop. He told me my money is best spent on another 4.0 that I clean up and after plenty of research and hearing the comments on here, I'm tending to agree with that. A modified engine that'll cost 3-4x as much for a few extra hp and torque numbers while tempting, just doesn't make sense unless I'm itching to burn cash and have tons of time on my hands. I'd rather get her back on the road and continue exploring this spring and summer, as opposed to having her sit until I save up and gather parts. It just makes more sense that way. Thanks for the help and the welcoming words everyone, this board is awesome.

Indeed. I'd expect you to spend $2800 to $3500 on a stroker, and another $800 to $1000 installing it (accessories, fluids, etc).

$600 for a good used take out motor and $300 in wear parts to install it is a much better path for something you aren't really planning on.

 

[x1n54n3x]

Right. In addition to gaskets, seals and fluids, anything else I should do while the new engine is out? Trying to sort through the differences in 4.0 engines from when they became HO and up, though if I'm reading right, the 00-01 4.0's came with a bunch of emission crap and I should avoid those, right?

Sorry, kind of leaving the hydrolock topic at this point, but figure I should ask you guys while I have your attention.

 

[cal]

If you have a 98, your castings are specific to 97/98. You should be able to run any motor from 91-98, though, bolt in but different casting numbers. While its out get an intake manifold from a 99 (also its power steering pump/bracket).

While its out, I'd do the rear main seal, replace the harmonic balancer, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. If you want to pony up for a Melling or OEM oil pump, do that as well, but don't buy a cheap one.

Water pump and thermostat, hoses, belts.

 

[x1n54n3x]

Great, thanks for the quick info cal. The massive craigslist search begins. My search area is basically all of CA, Reno and Vegas, as they're all about a half a day drive from Mammoth, so I should be able to find a quality motor pretty quick. Thanks again everyone.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Too bad you couldnt use a renix long block. I have 2 . One is running in amazing shape.

 

[87manche]

If you have a 98, your castings are specific to 97/98. You should be able to run any motor from 91-98, though, bolt in but different casting numbers. While its out get an intake manifold from a 99 (also its power steering pump/bracket).

While its out, I'd do the rear main seal, replace the harmonic balancer, valve cover and oil pan gaskets. If you want to pony up for a Melling or OEM oil pump, do that as well, but don't buy a cheap one.

Water pump and thermostat, hoses, belts.

this is everything that needs to be done.

I'd also plan on taking your valve cover apart and cleaning all of the CCV tower bits.
It's a fun way to waste a few hours.

I'd also add timing cover gaskets to that list. You should inspect the chain anyway on a new to you motor.

 

[x1n54n3x]

The Grand Cherokee motors are exactly the same, right? Found a 97 with really low miles on craigslist. Need the guy to answer some basic questions before I commit to the drive and borrowed pickup to grab it, but wanted to first make sure I wouldn't run into any compatibility issues anywhere with a ZJ 4.0.

 

[WiscoXJ]

I literally just put a zj engine in a xj. everything was the same except for the accessory mounts but that's a given. the heads looked different but ports were the same. intakes were different but you can just swap them. interested to see how this will turn out

 

[x1n54n3x]

What was your solution to the accessory mounts? I did notice the intake was different, but like you said, I have my old one. I'll be using my old accessories as well, I don't think the 97 comes with any anyways.

Engine checks out and has great compression. I guess barring any issues with the accessory mounts, I should have it by Sunday night. Totally stoked this is getting worked out so quickly.

 

[WiscoXJ]

all the accessories are interchangeable so we just swapped mounts and components. had to swap the intake for the powersteering mount

 

[x1n54n3x]

Ah gotcha. I thought you meant the mounting holes for some reason.

 

[WiscoXJ]

The power seetering mounting holes on the zj intake were different. That's all