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hub bearings shot?

PGT FTW said:
how long for an experienced shadetree to do this? I got a quote for $800 on my '01 XJ. I need to make a run to NJ sometime in the next week and don't want to put miles on it before doing the front bearings.

Totally dependent on how hard the hubs come off, some of them can be real bastards. Snap on has a neat socket set that goes on an air chisel, sockets that fit over the bolts in the back and literally drive the hub out. A zzzzzzt on one, zzzzzzzzzzt on two, etc and out it comes.
As for reassembly I stopped using that silver anti seize after I found out the copper based stuff is much better, The aluminum stuff an react with steel form almost an epoxy. I use Barnes hi temp no 21961 now. Work the knuckle surfaces over with some 3m pads first, coat the hub and put her in. Now is also a good time to do the universals.
 
$800!!!??? For 1 or 2?

Damn. Now I feel like a champion doing it myself. And I went to film school.

It took me a grand total of 4 hours, which included jacking the vehicle up, wiggling the hub to make sure that was the issue. Taking off the tire. Going to Napa to buy a breaker bar and 36mm socket, 12pt 13mm socket, driving home, tossing in some grizzley, making some coffee...

Going back into the garage, turning on 92.5 FM "The Outlaw".

Removing the break caliper. Zip tie break caliper to radius arm. Removing 13mm bolts on hub/axle. Playing around with crow bar and hammer... didn't work.
Turned the wheel as far to the side as possible. Picked up hammer again. Gave it about 13 solid smacks from different points. Axle and hub came out/off at same time.

Took axle to wire wheel (not the splines) just to feel good about myself.

lubed up axle with a little bit of 30#. Reinstalled. Took new hub out of box. put some anti-c's on the 13mms, installed new hub on axle. tighten bolts. Reinstalled breaks. Replaced tire on new hub. Dropped the jack stands. Started engine and went for a test drive.

Retightened lugs (cause hub comes with new bolts) Spit out my grizzley.

Took a nap.

4 hours.
 
both, from a local 4x4 shop (Hi-Tech in Chantilly VA). I'm going to call a normal service garage and ask, just to keep them honest.
 
Damn I payed $100 for a timken hub/bearing unit and it took me under 2 hours to do in my buddies garage. Only hard part was getting the old seized unit bearing out of the spindle.
 
$130 for this Crown model from 4wd.com

images.ashx
 
Don't forget that you will be dealing years of built up brake pad dust too. If you are using pneumatic tools you might want to wear a particulate mask.
 
Would bad hub bearings cause a "popping" sound when braking? I seem to get this when braking, and i only hear it when im almost stopped. Sounds like its coming from the drivers front, but my GF (in the passenger seat) says its coming from "back there" (pointing to the rear of the Jeep).
It almost sounds like something is.. for example.. under the seat and hitting a peice of metal. Thats the best way i can describe it.
Sorry to hijack... but i figured this was the best place to post.
Thanks
 
fwiw... try these part numbers at your local dealerships. There's one in PA selling them for $75/ea with a 1yr warranty to members of a local Jeep club. I'm gonna get a pair soon, pretty sure the drivers side is shot.

1990-1999 TJ and XJ
pt number v2507449aa

1999-2006 TJ and XJ
pt. number v2506458aa
 
I just loooked up my 2000 on www.rockauto.com and they list Timken for $72.79 and National for $82.79.
 
$75/ea for Mopar v2506458aa [email protected] Outten County Jeep in PA (and will ship)

I got mine replaced Friday and I still have a 'whoop-whoop-whoop' rotational noise (though the hubs are now quiet). Thoughts? Diff?
 
PGT FTW said:
$75/ea for Mopar v2506458aa [email protected] Outten County Jeep in PA (and will ship)

I got mine replaced Friday and I still have a 'whoop-whoop-whoop' rotational noise (though the hubs are now quiet). Thoughts? Diff?

Same here. Was thinking the hubs, but not anymore. Hoping its not the diff. Mine happens when slowing down, the last couple of feet.

Your description is perfect, sort of how Curly from the 3 stooges goes "woo woo woo woo", but mechanical.

Shifting into neutral it goes away for me, brakes don't seem to change the noise or make it go away.

Let me know how you fix yours.
 
I shifted into neutral and it was still there, so it's diff than yours. I did get a list of things to look at from a local 4x4 shop. Oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and diff seals. I also need to replace DIY rear brake shoes and cylinders....gonna do that first, then get teh diff seals done by the shop (unless it's an easy thing...didn't seem that way) and then I'll DIY the oil stuff.
 
it's the double u-joint coupling at the rear of the shaft. the section that bolts to the transfer case. the noise from that, though, is typically a high pitched rattle that turns into a continuous squeal "angry sparrows".

the "woah woah woah" noise is often the axleshaft ujoints (I've got that, too). I'm getting ready to do a front-end overhaul and swap the ujoints, hubs, rotors and pads. $$$
 
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