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HP Dana 30 questions.

HarryTasker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland, OR
Here is a little back ground. I a own a '96 for Ranger not an Xj. I have no fabrication skills, no tools, no place to do any work on my vehicle for more than a couple of hours and this truck is my daily driver and only vehicle. All work will be done at a professional shop I have used in the past.

So on to why I am posting. I have a HP Dana 30 for my front axle that is mounted using Rusty's Off-road long arm kit. Tires are 33x10.5 BFG KM2. I am going to re-gear for 4.10 from the stock 3.73. The 4.10 will match the 8.8 axle I am having installed. I am looking more for re-assurance that my reaseach thus far is correct or any warnings against it.

So here is what I have found.

1. There are no factory replacement Dana 44's available for the XJ. I can have one built, but I will have to go to a company like dynatrac and the expense of a complete axle will run in the area of $5000.

2. Since I am having the 4.10 gears installed I also looked at what else cold be replaced with limited labor. Right now the center disco is welded with the motor removed and a cover plate in place. I am under the assumption that since I have to have the axle dissasembled to regear I might as well replace the inner passanger side shaft with a one piece.

3. I also read that should one of the axle shafts break while driving the wheel can actually come off the axle entirely. The resolution for this is the Randy's R&P hub conversion kit formerly known as the warn hub conversion kit which will also provide new outer shafts.

4. Since I am already replacing the passanger side inner shaft and both outer shafts why not replace the drivers side inner as well.

5. I called Randy's and they quoted me about $1800 for the hub conversion (27 spline), new inner shafts, the 4.10 gears, and a master install kit. I believe all are Yukon brand and the shafts are 4340 Chrome-Moly.

So to me it looks like I can beef up the HP dana30 for about $2000 in parts and about $1000 (high estimate) in labor. Or buy a hp Dana 44 and spend about $5-6,000 in parts and then a couple hundred more in labor.

Any thoughts or constructive critsism?
 
1. D44 from a TJ Rubicon. Stronger R&P, but might be LP. People run 37's on them with chromoly axles.

2. The wheels will not fall off if an axle breaks, the bearings hold it on. The outer shaft does need to be in there to hold everything together though. If your inner axle breaks, you can technically pull that out, stuff a rag in the axle tube, and leave your outer axle in the hub, and everything will drive fine.

3. If you really want to go the hub conversion, check this one out.
http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=128_129&products_id=331

4. I'd truss that axle if it has the center disco cast thingy.
 
1. D44 from a TJ Rubicon. Stronger R&P, but might be LP. People run 37's on them with chromoly axles.

Right now I plan on stating with the 33's. I have tried finding those TJ rubicon axles but have had no luck. Would one of these work?

http://www.agearworks.com/DANA44AXLES.html




Nice that is less money and looks pretty stout.

4. I'd truss that axle if it has the center disco cast thingy.
Is this due to just stress put on the axle or impacts while off-roading?
 
Something is wrong here.
If the slip collar is welded to an axle half, how would to get the axle out to re-gear?


I really don't know. the axle was put on about 4 years ago and the shop that did it is no longer in business. I am under the impression that they just welded the clip in place that hold the two shafts together.
 
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