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How To: Build your own 4.0L turbo Cummins (Beware...170+ pics)
- Thread starter Boostwerks.com
- Start date
sandyeggoxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sure would be nice to have a home...
A bolt on turbo setup is cheaper and all the engineering has taken place. If it could get me close to what I want I would probably stick with it. Sure, I'm spending 3-4 grand on it, but I'm not pulling my motor and dropping in something else and fabricating stuff to make it fit. Plus, then I still have to tune it!
I was more weighing the options. But then I found out how little it upped the numbers and I was a bit disappointed. I have a good buddy that used to build ls1 motors. Each major change was a trip to the dyno. It wasn't a big deal to do a few dyno runs and get the real numbers.
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
There is a reason why we have no #'s yet. The Auto trans in it's stock form isn't exactly dyno freindly. However that is currently changing as we speak. I'll have more updates here soon.
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
finally getting to this part of my build.
Looks great man! Please keep us updated for sure! :thumbup:
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
What is making the AW4 not dyno friendly?
sandyeggoxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sure would be nice to have a home...
x2
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
Many automatics have this issue with a dynometer. Get up to speed to be in third gear(1:1), slam the throttle, and it down shifts to second gear which produces inaccurate results. The gears have to be locked with a manual shifter.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
And third is too fast, trying in second and it downshifts to first.
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Some updates!
For the past 6 months or so I've been nursing a slipping trans. The stock trans seemed to hold up great over the past couple years until I noticed a slight slip one day on the 1st to 2nd shift. After that it was slipping every time I hit boost. After talking to Chad at Fringe Development, I decided to try out his built trans that he documented here on naxja. Along with the trans I had him build me one of his valve bodies along with the full transgo shift kit. The trans was an OBD1 however, so I did have to do some fab work to make the swap into my 99 which I'll outline in the pictures below. Overall it was pretty straight forward, and the trans has been working great. No slippage and the shifts are nice and firm. 1st gear lock works great as well, and should be fantastic on the trail.
While I was at it, I added a Transdapt filter setup to the cooler circuit mainly for the piece of mind. The tricky part however was trying to find a location for it. With all the turbo stuff and hidden winch setup, there was little to no room in the engine bay so I was forced to go the other direction and place it back near the transfer case. In it's current position it's pretty vulnerable to rocks, but I have a belly skid in the works. In prep for the belly skid, I also clocked up the transfer case a good ~10degs or so using IRO's drill jig. The shift linkage is now even more crap, so I'll be getting novak's linkage kit here soon. I did also have to cut off the casting "ears" of the case to clear the floor pan.
As for the Dyno, Marty pretty much summed up the issues. One solution I've looked into is the radesigns shifter, but it appears the 98's and up will end up getting a CEL. I may end up just fabbing some simple switches to hold 2nd and 3rd gear just for dyno use.
My 99 had this speed sensor in the front part of the case. The earlier trans unfortunately did not, which meant I had to pull the oil pump and OD planetary to be able to safely drill the case. The case does have tapped threads however for the sensor, so I just needed to drill the through hole. I also needed to swap the clutch pack housing as the late model has a tone ring welded to the outside. This was simple enough, but did require the swapping of the new clutch pack.
The tail shaft speed sensor is different as well. The early model uses a two tabbed tone ring, while the late model uses a four tabbed tone ring with a circlip. Because of this, the early model output shaft doesn't have a groove for the circlip. Luckily they both use the same woodruff key and are the same diameter, so I simply drilled and tapped the late model tone ring for a set screw to hold it in place.
Early:
Late:
Tone ring installed:
The rest of the swap pics:
lines tucked nice along the inner frame rail
For the past 6 months or so I've been nursing a slipping trans. The stock trans seemed to hold up great over the past couple years until I noticed a slight slip one day on the 1st to 2nd shift. After that it was slipping every time I hit boost. After talking to Chad at Fringe Development, I decided to try out his built trans that he documented here on naxja. Along with the trans I had him build me one of his valve bodies along with the full transgo shift kit. The trans was an OBD1 however, so I did have to do some fab work to make the swap into my 99 which I'll outline in the pictures below. Overall it was pretty straight forward, and the trans has been working great. No slippage and the shifts are nice and firm. 1st gear lock works great as well, and should be fantastic on the trail.
While I was at it, I added a Transdapt filter setup to the cooler circuit mainly for the piece of mind. The tricky part however was trying to find a location for it. With all the turbo stuff and hidden winch setup, there was little to no room in the engine bay so I was forced to go the other direction and place it back near the transfer case. In it's current position it's pretty vulnerable to rocks, but I have a belly skid in the works. In prep for the belly skid, I also clocked up the transfer case a good ~10degs or so using IRO's drill jig. The shift linkage is now even more crap, so I'll be getting novak's linkage kit here soon. I did also have to cut off the casting "ears" of the case to clear the floor pan.
As for the Dyno, Marty pretty much summed up the issues. One solution I've looked into is the radesigns shifter, but it appears the 98's and up will end up getting a CEL. I may end up just fabbing some simple switches to hold 2nd and 3rd gear just for dyno use.
My 99 had this speed sensor in the front part of the case. The earlier trans unfortunately did not, which meant I had to pull the oil pump and OD planetary to be able to safely drill the case. The case does have tapped threads however for the sensor, so I just needed to drill the through hole. I also needed to swap the clutch pack housing as the late model has a tone ring welded to the outside. This was simple enough, but did require the swapping of the new clutch pack.
The tail shaft speed sensor is different as well. The early model uses a two tabbed tone ring, while the late model uses a four tabbed tone ring with a circlip. Because of this, the early model output shaft doesn't have a groove for the circlip. Luckily they both use the same woodruff key and are the same diameter, so I simply drilled and tapped the late model tone ring for a set screw to hold it in place.
Early:
Late:
Tone ring installed:
The rest of the swap pics:
lines tucked nice along the inner frame rail
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
I'm sorry for the horrible cell phone pics as well, but here's some more:
Since I had to drop the suspension, I threw on some new RS heims as well.
All back together after two very long weekends at the shop:
Since I had to drop the suspension, I threw on some new RS heims as well.
All back together after two very long weekends at the shop:
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
http://montanafab.com/products/
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1010278
Didn't know if everyone had seen this, but I thought I'd toss it out there.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1010278
Didn't know if everyone had seen this, but I thought I'd toss it out there.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Nice! As far as I know, you are the first person to modify a 97- AW4 to work with a 98+ TCU without a CEL. I researched the parts catalogs and a couple FSMs to figure out what I thought was necessary but it's good to see the actual parts and have them line up with what was in my head.
Can't wait to hear how it does with a built transmission!
Can't wait to hear how it does with a built transmission!
Rainman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
love your work.
Last edited:
jeep-power
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Plainfield, NJ
Nice drivetrain work!
Mine is coming along. What you think?
Also ended up modifing the motor mount
Boostwerks- what year power steering bracket are you using? The one i have will not work. It hits the exhaust manifiold. Will you post a few pics of yours, please?
Mine is coming along. What you think?
Also ended up modifing the motor mount
Boostwerks- what year power steering bracket are you using? The one i have will not work. It hits the exhaust manifiold. Will you post a few pics of yours, please?
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Looks great! Fantastic job on the dump tube. It starts to get cramped in there really quick!
I'm using the factory 99 XJ bracket. I'll snap some pics for you later tonight. What model/year bracket is yours?
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
Also ended up modifing the motor mount
Nice job on moving/lowering the motor mount. That really open up the area before the turbo intake. More room for elbows and connecting hoses.
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