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How the hell do i get to the CPS
- Thread starter victor_s
- Start date
magimerlin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flatonia, Tx
x2 a swivel head might help also
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Ujoint type head, and a bunch of extensions.
I got to it without dropping the crossmember.
Lie perpendicular to the length of the jeep, with your head by the driver's door.
It might be easier to remove the front driveshaft, but I didn't and still was able to replace the CPS.
DO NOT drop the bolts into the bell housing!
I got to it without dropping the crossmember.
Lie perpendicular to the length of the jeep, with your head by the driver's door.
It might be easier to remove the front driveshaft, but I didn't and still was able to replace the CPS.
DO NOT drop the bolts into the bell housing!
greychalet
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- MI
I did my '95s with a 1/4" ratchet with extensions as the smaller shaft size helped.Do not lose the original bolts I don't think anyone mentioned that U need them for alignment purposes.I also used a swivel just before the socket.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Simple - about three feet of extensions (if you can get them in a single piece, so much the better!) and a short 7/16" or 11m/m socket with an inbuilt universal joint.
Don't take the screws all the way out - loosen them, and the bring the socket back down and fill it with grease. Remove the screws - the socket should hold the screw (there are also magnetic inserts, but I've not tried them and therefore can't tell you how they work.)
If you search around here, you should find illustrated information on how I've notched the CPS bracket to make it easier to install and remove the next time - since you won't have to remove the screws, merely loosen them...
Don't take the screws all the way out - loosen them, and the bring the socket back down and fill it with grease. Remove the screws - the socket should hold the screw (there are also magnetic inserts, but I've not tried them and therefore can't tell you how they work.)
If you search around here, you should find illustrated information on how I've notched the CPS bracket to make it easier to install and remove the next time - since you won't have to remove the screws, merely loosen them...
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
The bolts will center it correctly.
Notching just makes it so you don't have to remove the bolts entirely to remove the sensor.
Although I'm not sure if I like that idea considering that somehow I assume the sensor wouldn't be perfectly in alignment if it slid out a tiny but upon installation or what not.
Notching just makes it so you don't have to remove the bolts entirely to remove the sensor.
Although I'm not sure if I like that idea considering that somehow I assume the sensor wouldn't be perfectly in alignment if it slid out a tiny but upon installation or what not.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
victor_s said:
You'll see long shoulders on the screws - that is what will align the sensor for you.
I don't have a link (and I plan to do a better writeup one of these days anyhow,) but you're essentially going to open the bottom screw hole toward the end of the bracket, and top one toward the "inside" of the curve. This allows you to slip the sensor in place onto the lower screw, then pivot it down onto the upper. Rest a long stick of metal or wood on top of the thing to hold it in place (it really doesn't take much,) and then tighten the screws - bottom one first. Remove the stick and drive away.
Yeah - I don't have a picture anywhere handy, or I'd link to it. Someone else might - I know that the small mod has caught on with some around here (they also seem to like it,) and I've posted it before, so it should still be somewhere...
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Blaine B. said:
I know - that's why I try to leave at least one small "nipple" (don't know what else to call it) that will latch onto the screw when I open up the holes. There's usually a soft "click" when I push the sensor in place. (I thought of that when I first did the mod, which is why I do it the way I do. One of these days, I'll get a decent writeup with pix posted...)
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
victor_s said:
Sorry. You have to remove the screws the first time - what you're doing is opening up the hole for access later. That's why I mentioned the grease thing - it usually works for me (in a pinch, bubblegum will also work - but keep the socket separate until you get home. Put it in the freezer overnight to freeze the gum, and it pulls right off. I've even removed gum from paper that way without serious damage.)
McQue
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Plainville, Connecticut
Set up your CPS this way, for the next time you have to change it...
http://www.floridajeepers.net/viewtopic.php?t=20947
http://www.floridajeepers.net/viewtopic.php?t=20947
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
5-90 is suggesting that you make sideways cuts in the CPS bracket, to turn the holes into slots that open from the side. This allows you to screw the bolts in lightly first, then hang the CPS on the bolts. I haven't tried this myself, because the CPS replacements I have gotten came with a new plastic dust cover that does not allow sideways movement. I found that if you snap the dust cover in first it helps hold the CPS in place while you put the bolts in, and it also helps prevent accidentally dropping the bolts into the bell housing. If you have no dust cover, notching is probably worth trying.victor_s said:
You may have missed the part in 5-90's removal, where he says first to loosen the bolts, then use some kind of retainer (grease in his version) before removing them all the way, so that they don't fall into the bell housing. He's not leaving the old CPS in, nor the old bolts unless he's replacing one that he already had notched.
As an alternative to grease or magnets, you can also take a little piece of plastic, such as from a grocery bag, and place it over the socket. When you jam the bolt head in, it stays but it pops right out when you need it to.
edit: I guess I missed 5-90's prior response.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
I like 5-90's idea better than the picture.
About cutting the lower hole differently so you have to pivot the sensor up.
Sounds like it would do a better job at aligning the sensor than cutting the sensor like in the pictures.
What about warranty though?
About cutting the lower hole differently so you have to pivot the sensor up.
Sounds like it would do a better job at aligning the sensor than cutting the sensor like in the pictures.
What about warranty though?
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Blaine B. said:
Haven't run into warranty issues - mainly because I haven't had to warranty a CPS.
The difference between my way and their was is that in my way, the hole at the bottom of the sensor (as pictured,) would open downwards, rather than to the right (as shown.) Opening the holes in different directions allows the sensor to stay put a bit better, I find.
I took my cue from the ANL style fuse -
