How the hell do i get to the CPS

[PhotographerMike]

1) My original "bad" sensor read correctly when cold but lost all resistance when warmed up. I popped it in a 200 degree oven, no resistance, cooled it off, just fine.

2) So I got a new one from NAPA, cut the 5-90 slots, installed it, no good! Returned for exchange (had my meter to prove it was bad if necessary), no problem with returning the modified part.

3) You might only need flex for the last few inches at the upper bolt. I used 3 extensions to get close and finally a 12 in. "wobble" extension, 3 inch ext. and u-joint short socket. You start feeding the extensions from behind the top of transfer case. My lower bolt came out with a stubby rachet worked from the front of the trans. Don't forget to grease the sockets.

 

[sharq]

ill tell you what, its hella easy to get at without the intake manifold in the way. not saying you should remove it. just saying.

 

[5-90]

1) My original "bad" sensor read correctly when cold but lost all resistance when warmed up. I popped it in a 200 degree oven, no resistance, cooled it off, just fine.

2) So I got a new one from NAPA, cut the 5-90 slots, installed it, no good! Returned for exchange (had my meter to prove it was bad if necessary), no problem with returning the modified part.

3) You might only need flex for the last few inches at the upper bolt. I used 3 extensions to get close and finally a 12 in. "wobble" extension, 3 inch ext. and u-joint short socket. You start feeding the extensions from behind the top of transfer case. My lower bolt came out with a stubby rachet worked from the front of the trans. Don't forget to grease the sockets.

You only really need flex right behind the socket - everything else should be rigid (too much flop, and you won't be able to even hit the damn screw...) I use the 11m/m socket with the inbuilt universal joint, and it just strokes at the job (I tried doing several extensions and several flip joints before, and it was a bigger pain than it was worth. I found a 30" or so extension at a tool shop for ten bucks, and it's the best ten bucks I spent on the rig! Straight shot, flip joint at the end, and call it good.)

Testing it before you cut it is probably a better idea, but I'm glad you didn't have any trouble with the return. It's more of a pain on RENIX - since you can't really test the thing without function-checking it...

 

[victor_s]

Alright so i got the bottom one off but the one to the top i have no idea how to get there...any tricks?

 

[5-90]

Alright so i got the bottom one off but the one to the top i have no idea how to get there...any tricks?

Long extension. Flex socket. Always worked for me.

 

[PhotographerMike]

Long extension. Flex socket. Always worked for me.

2X see above

Testing it before you cut it is probably a better idea . . .

Good idea, but "new" parts should work out of the box, I'm sure glad the fuel pump did.

P.S. we won't go into my dropping the T.C. & skid the first time I took the CPS out . . .

 

[5-90]

2X see above



Good idea, but "new" parts should work out of the box, I'm sure glad the fuel pump did.

P.S. we won't go into my dropping the T.C. & skid the first time I took the CPS out . . .

They should, but they sometimes don't. In this case, I think Gorbachev said it best - as I recall the original Russian, it went something like "Noviry v proviry." Translation? "We trust but we also verify." If I can test the part before I put it in, I do so. Saves me trouble that way - I consider it five minutes well spent.

 

[victor_s]

shouldnt that be...veru v proverku

 

[victor_s]

endded up being the fuel pump relay

 

[cracked-butt]

i got ya a better way of gettin it replaced.....




:smoker: get a buddy to do it for ya while yer at work!!! :worship: :worship: :worship:


(he saved my butt that day from a good 5 mile hike home!!!) :scared:

 

[5-90]

shouldnt that be...veru v proverku

Possible - my Russian is more than a little rusty (it's been a dozen years or so, and I've been hit in the head too many times...)

Do you speak Russian? If not, I'm sure we could get Andrey (Slonopotam) to clear that up for us both.:lecture:

 

[victor_s]

yea i speak it lol i am russian

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

As Blaine mentions, you can gain lots of accessability by unbolting the rear of the driveshaft and moving it out of the way. This gives room to get your fingers up in there to grab the sensor and bolts. Only takes an extra 5 minutes to remove the four bolts at the U-joint; and run a piece of masking tape around the U-joint caps to keep them in place.

I had trouble getting the top bolt out of mine. The bolt hole is open toward the front of the bellhousing, and corrosion had built up there. A squirt of penetrating oil helped to get it loose.

 

[PhotographerMike]

I had trouble getting the top bolt out of mine. The bolt hole is open toward the front of the bellhousing, and corrosion had built up there. A squirt of penetrating oil helped to get it loose.

I almost forgot about that, that's why I dropped the T.C. mount a bit the first time. Really didn't want to drop the trans and re-tap the hole.

The hole for the bolt goes all the way through to the front of the bell housing, so you can squirt it from the front and back.

 

[shroomdog]

i found out in my 1990 that removing my auto trans linkage bracket allowed more room to access the cps. it really helped me alot.

 

[in2fords]

this is what I had to do when I installed the np435, not the best way but it is the easiest.