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How much money to build a nice stroker?

I built a stroker from the ground up. It ran a bit more than a standard overhaul since I did a Clifford Header and a Crane cam. New water pump, alternator, oil pump, etc. The single most expensive part was the machine shop. I had the block decked, the valves reamed out and sleeved, etc. I figure that the machine work was around $1000, which included them assembling the long block so that they would warranty the engine. I have around 120k on the engine to date. I spent around $2000 in total.

It was the single best upgrade I have done. It is a joy to drive on the highway. I can pass almost anybody on the freeway, especially in the mountains. I get 21mpg on the highway. The low end torque makes is great for pulling my trailer and even better on the trail.
 
Ford 8.8 is by no means a bolt in affair.

You'll be fine driving an autolocker on the street.
 
Are those axles a bolt-on affair or would there be a lot of other stuff I'd have to change in order to make it work?/QUOTE]

The 8.8 is not bolt in, but it's a common swap. They sell bracket kits to make them fit. You would need to remove the old brackets and weld on the new stuff to make it work. No mods to the vehicle, just the axle itself. Would also have to do some work to get the disc brakes hooked up since you currently have drum brakes.

Another option would be to find a Chrysler 8.25" at a junkyard and have it geared 4:10 when you regear the front. Personally, I wouldn't spend a dime on that D35 you have. Your ABS will not work with the Ford 8.8 or the Chrysler 8.25. Stock Cherokees with 8.25" rear axles did not have ABS. To me, no ABS wouldn't be an issue, but it's your call.

Even if you gear and lock both axles, you'll be in it less $$ than a stroker motor.
 
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go 4.56 if you are paying to do gears, or go cheap and get a 4.10 LSD 8.8 and a 4 cal 4.10 dana 30 and call it good.
 
I'm going to start looking in junk yards. Maybe I can find a set of 4.10 axles from a 97-01 Cherokee with a 8.25 rear. That would save me the cost of having to buy the gears and then I wouldn't have to waste money on this shitty D35.
 
go 4.56 if you are paying to do gears, or go cheap and get a 4.10 LSD 8.8 and a 4 cal 4.10 dana 30 and call it good.

yes^^. deeper gears have always always been better in my experience. for highway or offroad. especially when you're looking for power over fuel economy. or if you can snag some axles that are already 4.10 that's a good option too
the cheaper the better. but if you're paying for it go with a deeper ratio
 
Just to re-iterate, if you get rid of the D35, you will not be able to keep your ABS. It's not a big deal to get rid of and lots of us who wheel have done exactly that, but it's something to be aware of.

XJs with factory 4.10s are rare so keep that in mind when looking.
 
Just to re-iterate, if you get rid of the D35, you will not be able to keep your ABS. It's not a big deal to get rid of and lots of us who wheel have done exactly that, but it's something to be aware of.

XJs with factory 4.10s are rare so keep that in mind when looking.

Well, I got lucky. Found a local 8.25 rear axle from a 1999 Cherokee 4 cylinder. It has the 4.10 gears already in it and they only want $175. I think that's a pretty fair deal if you ask me. Then all I would need is 4.10 gears for the front, a rear disc conversion, and some lockers and I'd be good to go.

I like the idea of 4.56 gears but I think that might be a little to extreme for highway driving / fuel economy on 31" tires, no?
 
That's a great/rare deal.....go for it if you're set on 4.10's.
 
try to find a HP30 with 4.10s if possible
 
Will the Dana 30 front axle (with 4.10 gears) from a Jeep Wrangler TJ fit without any modification or is it different?

EDIT: Never mind, I realized the Dana 30 on the TJ is not a HP so forget that.
 
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Shameless plug here, but...... I have a brand new yukon air locker for sale that would fit nicely in that D30 you have up front. This is assuming you decide to go with selectable lockers.

PM me if you are interested.
 
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