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Heater control valve delete help

I also got a 5/8-5/8 adaptor and a 3/4-5/8 adaptor ($4 total) to use with the 5/8 hose that was between the HCV and the core. it is a perfect U to use in case it was too hot in the cab and the core needs to be bypassed. I can just pull the lines off the core and plug the bypass unit in (the adaptors plugged into the old HCV line). Doesn't look like I will need to go that route though. Thank you all for the input.
 
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I just ran two lengths of 5/8" hose (in both my 88 MJ and my 00 XJ). Work fine, one size, a little dish soap on the larger fittings does the trick. Been like that for a few years now.

And I don't get any extra heat in my cab, but the MJ also doesn't have A/C.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
I just ran two lengths of 5/8" hose (in both my 88 MJ and my 00 XJ). Work fine, one size, a little dish soap on the larger fittings does the trick. Been like that for a few years now.

And I don't get any extra heat in my cab, but the MJ also doesn't have A/C.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Why am I not surprised?
 
I just ran two lengths of 5/8" hose (in both my 88 MJ and my 00 XJ). Work fine, one size, a little dish soap on the larger fittings does the trick. Been like that for a few years now.

And I don't get any extra heat in my cab, but the MJ also doesn't have A/C.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Mocked that up with the old 5/8 line When I was brainstorming options but was worried about it splitting down the road due to being over stretched.
 
I saw a vague mention of vac line plugs. I plugged the line going to the HCV and I still only had defrost. Is that the suggested fix when deleting the HCV? It's possible I have a break in that line somewhere and just need to cap it off closer to it's source if the vents are supposed to work correctly after deleting that HCV.
 
You must have good solid vacuum, probably 15 inches at the HVAC vac lines, both, going into the firewall near the heater core connections for the damper doors to work.

Sounds like you still have a leak somewhere.
 
Found my issue. Seems like the fire caught the vac line going across the firewall from driver to passenger and melted a little 1/4" gut in it. Taped it up and now I get my vents the way I want. I knew I was running rough but assumed I hadn't torqued the new motor mounts down enough since I had my normal 15 in/hg at the brake booster line. Now I'm hoping that the oil pressure wire somehow runs along that same path and was taken out too since the gauge is now pegged like it would be if disconnected.
 
I had a hidden (hard to find or see) melted 1/4" hole in the same line on one of my jeeps years ago that I found one day in a vac line by vac line hand search. No isea how it got there, must have been prior owner...history??? Congrats. I also had a brand new rubber vac hose leak that perplexed me that turned out to be deformed, not round, inside the hose and so it did not seal on the male plastic tubing. New does not always mean good.

Found my issue. Seems like the fire caught the vac line going across the firewall from driver to passenger and melted a little 1/4" gut in it. Taped it up and now I get my vents the way I want. I knew I was running rough but assumed I hadn't torqued the new motor mounts down enough since I had my normal 15 in/hg at the brake booster line. Now I'm hoping that the oil pressure wire somehow runs along that same path and was taken out too since the gauge is now pegged like it would be if disconnected.
 
FWIW, I can tell its hotter with the AC off now. Off to figure out if blend door is out of whack. Seems like it's closing completely when I move the selector from hot to cold so who knows.
 
FWIW, I can tell its hotter with the AC off now. Off to figure out if blend door is out of whack. Seems like it's closing completely when I move the selector from hot to cold so who knows.

On Max AC the blower should speed up and the outside air damper should close so circulate inside air only (too stay cooler). The vacuum valve actuator is at the bottom of the AC box near the passenger side door. Mine went bad and would only let in outside hot air. Took forever to cool down
 
I just purchased '97+ hoses from Autozone and swapped them in place of the entire hose and valve setup in my '96. Heat and AC both seem to be operating as usual.
 
Hi, sorry to necro a "less recent" thread, but I'm curious as to how to ensure the blend door is working on my 96 Country. Planning on doing the HCV delete and just want to make sure the blend door seals tight before doing the delete. I get heat and AC just fine, so it's working it seems, just not sure how to verify it seals as it should. I did a google search and couldn't find anything and same result in looking at the Haynes manual.

Thanks!
 
Hi, sorry to necro a "less recent" thread, but I'm curious as to how to ensure the blend door is working on my 96 Country. Planning on doing the HCV delete and just want to make sure the blend door seals tight before doing the delete. I get heat and AC just fine, so it's working it seems, just not sure how to verify it seals as it should. I did a google search and couldn't find anything and same result in looking at the Haynes manual.

Thanks!

Poke your noggin up under the passenger side dash.
Move the hot to cold lever on the dash and observe the movement of the cable where your noggin is poked. The cable has a stop. You'll get it when you see it.
 
Noggin, LMAO, have not heard that one in a coons age. :laugh3:
 
Thanks guys. Put my noggin up in there and when I select heat all the way it hits that stop. Is that good to go to make sure that the AC will work good with the delete? Thanks!
 
AC will work well either way. If the door doesn't close all the way, you may get some heat in the cabin even with the heater control knob pushed all the way to cold.
 
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