- Location
- Roanoke VA
Nope, I'm not messing with it! We have two seasons here, hot and cold so this easy "twice a year" switch works for me.
I'm sure that is the issue though, or the seal. This XJ has 300k on it so it could be anything
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Heater control valve delete help
- Thread starter Ridered4583
- Start date
Nope, I'm not messing with it! We have two seasons here, hot and cold so this easy "twice a year" switch works for me.
I'm sure that is the issue though, or the seal. This XJ has 300k on it so it could be anything
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I assure you it's the adjustment on the door.
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
I think this is the route I will end up going. Keep the core bypassed then hook it back up with no HCV in the winter. It takes literally 30 seconds to do. But I will try it straight just out of curiosity and see if it has an effect on the inside temp in MY opinion. My original question though was if I should worry about the direction of flow through the heater core.
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
This would give a nice factory look but I am going with bulk hose. looking at like $12 total vs $20 each at my local parts house for the factory hoses. Functionality will be the same and I will have money left over for some frosty beverages. :cheers:
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Flow direction isn't super important. Should be able to determine that just looking at it now.
Just make sure the blend air door is shutting completely.
Just make sure the blend air door is shutting completely.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Now, THAT makes sense!!!
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
That is why I am confused. the flow in a pre 97 goes in the bottom out the top. 97+ goes in the top out the bottom. seems like the same core so it must not really matter. I will probably just run it in the 97+ configuration (5/8-5/8 3/4-3/4) for simplicity. To run it as factory I would have to cut and adapt each hose. I will just give the core a good flush so I don't break a bunch of junk loose into my system when I start running coolant in the opposite direction.
lawagoneer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fordoche, LA
When I worked on ambulances and RVs we would install valves in the heater hoses. Close them in the summer when heat not needed, open them in the winter when heat was needed. Just make sure that your antifreeze is good before you close off the core. The anticorrision properties protect the core during the idle times.
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
So the heater core line can be safely blocked? the coolant in that line flows to nothing else? That is why I have it bypassed rather than plugged I assumed it was needed for proper flow throughout the engine.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
The coolant needs to circulate or else it will boil on the hot spots in the engine. A hole in the thermostat is all you need, but that will circulate through the entire system and may bring other problems (eg, long time to reach operating temp)
I used a vacuum valve and fabricated an H bypass from some reduced tee fittings. When valve is open the coolant flows through the core, when the valve is closed the coolant takes the turn through the bypass.
I used a vacuum valve and fabricated an H bypass from some reduced tee fittings. When valve is open the coolant flows through the core, when the valve is closed the coolant takes the turn through the bypass.
Transpoquick
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
39.5, is that degrees?
Wow, what do I have to do to make my a/c run that cold?
Sheez.
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
I hope it isn't to convert to R134A.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
That's on 134a.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Is your thermistor broken?
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
Here's kind of a stupid question but I need to ask to be be sure. It still fits in this thread since my HCV is leaking. Since the valve is leaking very slowly, could that be reducing the pressure just enough in the system where I will start to get temp creep only when climbing up long grades?
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
Be careful. I had mine start heating up when coming to a stop. It was weird but as I would stop (under braking) the temp would rise. take off and it would go down. my HCV had been dripping for a while. Kept checking the reservoir,it was going down slowly but I kept topping it off. However this time the HCV leak had increased and the radiator was almost empty even though here was still fluid in the tank. Check the level in the Rad. and replace or bypass the valve asap.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Cooling system is not holding the proper pressure if there's a leak.
Get ready for that POS valve to let go and discharge all your coolant real soon.
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
It's already in the trash
Perfect.
Ridered4583
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
HCV Delete complete! So here is the report so far. Just ran bulk hose 5/8 from the water pump to the 5/8 core port and the 3/4 (11/16 factory) from the Thermostat housing to 3/4 core port. Total cost $12 that included a pack of vac line plugs. In cab temps and the temp out of the vents with A/C on seem very similar if not the same as what I am used to but I didn't take any actual readings. The only difference I noticed is the engine ran several degrees cooler! Which to me is a plus but that would suggest that there IS some heat transfer at the heater core but I haven't noticed the difference in the comfort level.
