Good headlight harness?

[fallacist]

well, i got the the bulbs are autopal, like the housings- i got them both from ebay.

i never handled the bulbs.

So i went out there and turned the lights on, no passenger side low beam, both high beams. gave the front grill a whack near where i have the relays, and got both lights working. whacked it a bit more, jumped up and down on the front end, switch back from high to low, and both lights stay on the whole time.

the relays are brand new. if it was a loose connection, you would think the light would have turned back off soon as i gave it additional shaking

 

[NW99XJ]

I'd say check your grounds. Also look at the terminals at each light, they "female" ends may be a bit stretched out/oxidized. Just do a good inspection, and it would be a good idea to have a logic probe or a volt meter on hand if the problem persists, that way you can accurately identify where your loss of ground/voltage is and where in the harness you're loosing it from.

 

[N8N_99xj]

I THINK I saw somone say some manufacturer runs those type of relays, like honda or toyota.

does this help?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...292qCw&usg=AFQjCNGdiRU6SH_zHB5dq7-iXbfjKPMW3w

I think that the ones that I am using are the "mini" relays and the ones that the Putco harness uses are possibly the "micro" ones, which it does appear that Hella makes. So if you already have a Putco harness and need to fix it up for cheap, maybe try to source some Hella micro relays?

here's a SPDT one:

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H415240..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327153679&sr=1-1

which looks like all that Hella offers. I guess you'd have to check your wiring to see if that's what it's intended for; if not, you could pick the terminals out of the connector and rearrange them as appropriate.

Now what's tempting to me is this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU5IZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm thinking of using one relay for each headlight filament and a multi-position fuse box so that I'll be taking power from the PDC, fusing each filament individually, and relaying each one individually. Yeah, it's massive overkill, but a) it will allow me to run ludicrous bulbs should I choose to do so, b) it will prevent a total failure of headlights should a wiring fault blow a fuse or a relay go bad (I have actually had that happen to me before, of course it was my low beams going out at 0-dark-hundred on a road with no lights) and c) if I buy a fuse block slightly larger than I need, I can then just add another relay block should I add any more lights (fog, driving, etc.) in the future. I also like that there's a splash cover over them, as I'm thinking they will be mounted on the inner fender near/behind the battery; even though I'll be putting silicone grease on all the connections, a little extra protection never hurt.

What I'm starting with is a Susquehenna Motorsports H4 conversion harness, but the one thing that I really don't like about it is that there is only one 30A fuse on the common power lead for the whole harness; I really would rather have at a bare minimum the highs and lows fused separately - especially since I do not have any fog or driving lights currently. Yeah, I know, if you do it right nothing should fail... but emphasis on *should*.

 

[lathode]

I'm having trouble understanding what relay to use. I found this one: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070 but from what I can find online I think it is 87/87a. How do I search for the correct part?

edit: also this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P61E36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[lathode]

I just went a head and bought the Painless harness. Pretty pricey at $115, but looks like real good quality and has sealed relays. I didn't want to take a long time tracking down all the quality pieces and maybe not doing a great job putting it together. I took care of my factory fog light issue by bending one of the fog light relay posts. Looking at another post it looks like I might run into an issue with the sockets being a bit long for the XJ housings. I'll make em work.

 

[fallacist]

well, i got the the bulbs are autopal, like the housings- i got them both from ebay.

i never handled the bulbs.

So i went out there and turned the lights on, no passenger side low beam, both high beams. gave the front grill a whack near where i have the relays, and got both lights working. whacked it a bit more, jumped up and down on the front end, switch back from high to low, and both lights stay on the whole time.

the relays are brand new. if it was a loose connection, you would think the light would have turned back off soon as i gave it additional shaking

sorry for not following up sooner. it was the bulbs. those crappy autopal bulbs. replaced em with hella 80/100's and ive been good to go since

 

[tigerchief]

I THINK I saw somone say some manufacturer runs those type of relays, like honda or toyota.

Yes, someone else linked it here. It's the same relay used for 2003-2008 Honda Pilot Fog lamps.

If you want to replace these relays, search for:

Pilot PL-RY1



You can get them at a lot of places for as low as $5 each.


This has been such a pain in the ass to source, I'm going to replace the female connector to something more standard. They're just simple relays, after all.

 

[tigerchief]

Some links:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLT-PL-RY1

http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-PL-RY1-..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1338240640&sr=1-1

 

[steveareno]

Had a after-market, Big Offroad I think, IPF lights, Fat Boy bulbs and Piaa little ones hooked to high beam. Kept burning relays when going to high beam, Pilot type relays. The funny thing is that the PIAAs are not hooked to the Big Offroad wiring, seperate relays through high beam switch. Anyway, tired of messing with it, went to ARB which has three-five pin relays instead of the two-four-pin. Works much better, worth the $100 to me.
The old, still functional harness, with new relays is availabe free to Member, plus postage. Email @ svb7001@humboldt. Must bemember.