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GM 5.3/4L60E/Klune/Stak 300

Great price and condition!

If/when I do my swap I've gotta get something from down south shipped to upstate NY. Similar mileage engines up here are all flaky grey from corrosion already.
 
Ok, I'm considering engine mounts. I like the MORE mounts for the 4.0 in xj's and was thinking of building something similar for the 5.3.

The JM600 units
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/BombProof MM/bombproof.htm

I am thinking of using these sleeves:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...ode=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SLCAS&Category_Code=

and these bushings:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...ode=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SRCAB&Category_Code=

I would have to build some flat four hole plates to fit the engine and connect the engine to the bushing with 2x2 box or something. Then weld some tabs to the frame. What do you all think? Would these isolate the motor enough as well as provide ridgid enough support? Like I said, the MORE mounts worked well in the old XJ. I don't really like the Novak or AA mounts and they'll end up being all customized anyway. Jeff
 
lI like the jm600 mounts and fab some 2x4 frame mounts. I would look at the 4.0 stock engine side mounts for possible remount to the 5.3. We used the advance ones and they are close to the stock exhaust manifolds that may deteriate them faster than normal time will tell.
 
Jeff, check out some of the buggy builds on Pirate with Chev V8's. There are pics of some pretty simple mounts that should work for you.

Damn, great price on a good engine. That's going to be a sweet sounding MJ.
 
All the buggys I found use tubing welded to a sleeve that a poly bushing fits into. So, I went with my plan to basically copy the Mountain Offroad motor mounts that use XJ lower control arm bushings as I think the rubber will soak up more vibrations than poly. I purchased four bushings and the sleeves to press them into from Iron Rock Off Road in Minneapolis, MN. They had the stuff at decent prices, so I went ahead with the order. I'm thinking I'll use two for the engine mounts and perhaps use two for the tranny mount. They'll all be the same hardness and perhaps I'll be able to mount all four the same distance apart as that seems to be the proper way to do it. Jeff

P4190155.jpg
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
Well, I found an engine...in Texas! I had it shipped to northern WI for $165. I didn't think that was too bad. It's an '03 with 35,000mi. and includes all accessories and the engine wiring harness. I paid $650. Now I've got my work cut out for me. Jeff


P3220189.jpg




Jeff, those manifolds look a "little" wide for the XJ. Any ideas on how to solve that issue? Here in Calif you have to run the stock manifolds to get past our SMOG laws.
 
I'm not sure on that yet. I have a set of firebird manifolds, but they are quite possibly wide too. I have seen a set of Sanderson block hugger headers that may work. I'm not too worried about smog here in WI. Jeff
 
Here's a link to the Sanderson headers I was talking about. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/product_info.php?products_id=173

Here's another set:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ryZ33631QQihZ012QQitemZ220180212505QQtcZphoto

A set of Hedman headers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ryZ33631QQihZ012QQitemZ220180572980QQtcZphoto

Hey, I found the one I was really thinking of:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/4614,281_LS1-Tight-Fit-Headers.html I guess that is a center dump though where the Sanderson units are offset for better access to the motor mounts.
100_4248.jpg

100_4249.jpg

100_4256.jpg

100_4254.jpg


Here's the AA slick fit headers:
Chassis_021.JPG


Here's the crossover the guy was making to pass in front of the rear sump oil pan:
Chassis_022.JPG


I'm sure there are other options too. Jeff
 
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Those look nice, but notice how high the engine is mounted? Way above the frame? With the XJ, the engine sets quite low, placing the widest part of the exhaust between the frame rails. That's why, with the older Chevy's, the Ram's Horn exhaust manifolds are so popular--the tubes are above the plugs, resulting in a much tighter exhaust configuration, down, next to the frame. Now's the time to really "measure twice and cut once".
I built a mock up of my block, and bolted the stock '94 truck exhaust manifolds to the mock up. It was invaluable in indicating where I had to cut out the frame rails to clear the exhaust. Use of Ram's Horn, or early truck/Camaro manifolds did not require the frame surgery; however, Calif made me do it:flamemad:
 
I'm trying to "finish" the frame plating before trial fitting the engine in place. If I have to make some cuts, so be it, but I'll be cutting THROUGH my initial frame plate. :) I hear what you're saying, but I just haven't gotten to that bridge yet. We'll see about crossing it when I get there. Jeff
 
i have a set of ram horn manifolds, they worked awsome and there are some of them that have the smog ports as well, with the smog ports it is smog legal, i am running the block hugger headders now so if you know someone that wants the manifolds, let me know.



p.s. i also have the AA bell housing and transmission with every thing needed to install the SBC, clutch, slave cylender, pressure plate, the works! all for sale at a really low price!! ( just to put it out there )
 
Rams horns will not work with Gen III and Gen IV engines. They only work with the "antique" SBC.

Look at the exhaust port configuration - completely different.
 
Root Moose said:
Rams horns will not work with Gen III and Gen IV engines. They only work with the "antique" SBC.

Look at the exhaust port configuration - completely different.
that's good to know, i have an engine from a 1976 mercruiser, yes, a boat motor, works awesome and lots of torque, all i need now is fuel injection.

DSCN0274.jpg
 
Mr.OverKill said:
that's good to know, i have an engine from a 1976 mercruiser, yes, a boat motor, works awesome and lots of torque, all i need now is fuel injection.

DSCN0274.jpg

Got any pics of the engine with the block hugger headers and how they clear the frame rail? Jeff
 
I started looking a little closer at how (or if) this thing is going to fit. I measured about 16" from the closed hood to the frame rail.

P4250181.jpg


I measured about 16" to the bottom of the exhaust ports from the top of the engine.

P4250183.jpg


I measured about 23.5" between the narrowest portion of the frame rails.

P4250182.jpg


I measured about 21" between the heads.

P4250184.jpg


How exactly am I going to be able to fit an exhaust manifold of any sort on this thing?!!!

I removed the '03 Silverado exhaust manifolds and compared them to a set of '01 Firebird exhaust manifolds. The drivers side manifolds appear to be the SAME casting.

P4250176.jpg


P4250178.jpg


P4250179.jpg


The passengers side are different though.

P4250172.jpg


P4250174.jpg


P4250175.jpg


P4250180.jpg


I guess actually trial fitting the engine/tranny/Klune/Stak 300 in is needed before I get too worked up. :) Jeff
 
You know, after looking around more, I think that drivers side manifold I got through ebay before I even had the engine is NOT a Firebird unit. I think it IS a Truck manifold. The Firebird unit should be a mirror of the passengers side manifold. Oh well, they were cheap. Jeff
 
with the rear dump exhaust one of the things you run in to is the control arms ( ie.. upper ) mounting and arc of travel. i solved this by using the center dump and radious arms from my tranny mount cross member, clears like it was designed that way ( i did it on accident :wierd: )

i will take some pics of the block hugger headders this afternoon and the ed hanson exhaust system i had built to this setup
 
I want to run a long arm 3 link with the single upper on the drivers side above the driiveshaft, so arm clearance on the drivers side is critical. The front wheel drive LS4 engines actually use a manifold that exits in the "rear" with a crossover just behind the engine OVER the tranny. I might actually see if that's a possibility. I don't know if I'll be able to fit any exhaust tubes from the exhaust port down past the frame rail for a center dump. I might experiment with some sort of manifold installed upside down too. I might have to position the engine higher than what I was thinking and either use a hood scoop or switch to a lower profile car intake manifold. I guess we'll see clearer when I get the engine in the bay. Jeff
 
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