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Gear Swap on D30, Necessary in D35?

the 8.25 is found in xj's, and doesnt explode as easily. things that make the d35 include weak ring gear and a wet noodle housing, aftermarket shafts wont fix that!

you can fiind one cheaper then $450, it seems you found the most ridiculous priced one, and stoped looking.... i picked one up for $80 last year, keep looking!
 
Holy hell. Actually I saw some 500 and 550. Does car-parts find a U-pull J-yard or a J-yard that does their own (or mine rather) dirty work. ??

Also, according to Rocky-Roads disclaimer things that have to be manufactured, like axles, are non-refundable. That pretty much means either I can use them or not. (because Why would I sell them to someone else on here if I woulnd't use it myself?).

Here's what I'm going to do. I'm going to use the S35 until it breaks, at which point I'll stab in the stock one for the time being and find a chrysler. I'll keep looking around and if I find one before that time for a decent price I'll pick it up. Does that make you all happy? I hope you're all satisfied with making me look out for my XJ's welfare/my convenience. :dunce:

Also, if I buy the correct gears with a master install kit... how much time would it take to install it myself assuming I have never even seen a gear... but had a write up. ?? And all the correct tools before hand. ??
 
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xcm said:
the 8.25 is found in xj's, and doesnt explode as easily. things that make the d35 include weak ring gear and a wet noodle housing, aftermarket shafts wont fix that!

you can fiind one cheaper then $450, it seems you found the most ridiculous priced one, and stoped looking.... i picked one up for $80 last year, keep looking!
Click to expand...

...weak ring gear? as in the ring that's with the pinion I will be replacing? And by wet noodle housing do you mean the diff-case (inside) or the axle housing?
 
Come to think of it that ring and pinion in and of itself would cost more than the chrysler axle you bought by 2-3 times. I think this is starting to make logical sense. Even if I had to drive halfway across the state I would still save more money.

I guess I should start searching on ABS deletion now.
 
HttpWayne said:
I hope you're all satisfied with making me look out for my XJ's welfare/my convenience. :dunce:
Click to expand...

I vote that you should really show us a thing or two and run that Lock-Right in a stock D35 on 33s. We'd sure learn our lesson then!
 
casm said:
I vote that you should really show us a thing or two and run that Lock-Right in a stock D35 on 33s. We'd sure learn our lesson then!
Click to expand...

I already am. And when it doesn't break, or until, I will have a unique XJ. 33x1250 with 4.10's and a locker on a D-35. I think I'm going to make it my life long goal now to make rig-of-the year with a D35.
 
HttpWayne said:
33x1250 with 4.10's and a locker on a D-35. I think I'm going to make it my life long goal now to make rig-of-the year with a D35.
Click to expand...

Live the dream!
 
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Actually come to think of it I wouldn't be very useful in a jam trying to tow someone. I mean, I can't expect a D35 to help me get the stuck hummer out of a 1 foot ditch. BTW, if I did upgrade to an 8.25, what would be it's limitations as far as tire size? Would I be able to two another XJ with my 33's without any risk of breakage?

Then again, I would really "show you" if I happened to be on the same trail you were stuck on but I couldn't help you because I had a D35. HA.
 
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Stockaxle syndrome... its like stockholm syndrome but can be cured with some thought and a trip to the you-pull-it for a $130 29 spline 8.25.

When you are dropping hundreds on parts, the sane thing to do is to drop a little extra for an axle that is known to stand up to your tire size before doing it, so you don't throw good money after bad. But hey, do whatever you want, it's a free country. I do suggest that you think about what will happen if you blow a shaft though - hint: your wheel falls off if that happens to you on a d35. If the wheel falls off, so does the brake drum. Ever try stopping when nothing is holding one of your brake cylinders back and you're on 3 wheels?

But hey I don't know anything, I haven't personally broken a d35. For me, watching them suck on other people's rigs is enough for me to not run one (to quote a friend of mine.)

I'm probably beating a dead horse here since you appear to like your d35 as it hasn't kicked you in the balls yet - but hey, if it gets you thinking and you go with an axle that isn't known to suck as a result, it was worth it.
 
Can anyone here tell me they've broken a super 35 axle? I am yet to hear anything of this nature. The one I have is forged, not cast, with SAE-4340 alloy steel on rolled splines, not cut. 30% stronger steel shafts with 35% stronger spline design from stock. Numbers don't replace quality. I prefer a 65% increase in strength to 3 splines.

So I know if people can run stock D35s with 35" tires, probably because they're intelligent and know their limitations, then I should be safe with 33's since. I've owned another jeep cherokee with completely a completely stock dana 35 with 31x10.50's and have used it like a trophy truck out in the hills of 29 palms, and on plenty of trails in big bear mountain without fail. I know I'll be just fine with this setup since I won't be doing with this what I did with that.
 
Fine... ok... I will tell you exactly what you want to hear.

D35s will stand up to your tires! You can do whatever you want and it won't break! They are even higher clearance than better (I'm sorry, worse in your case) axles! Put 36s on it and lock it! Have a blast!

Happy now?

Note: not a single thing I just said is true. But, it is what you want to hear and have been trying to convince yourself of since you started this thread. We are not trying to get you to spend money for no reason.

Oh, and remember that many mechanics will charge less to gear an axle if it is not in the jeep, because it is more comfortable to work on a bench. If you get the 8.25 cheap enough you may even save money or break even by having it regeared and installing after vs having the 35 regeared in the jeep.
 
You deal too much in opinion and hearsay of others. Just because everyone else does it another way doesn't mean that every OTHER way is the WRONG way. You make it sound like it's your way or the highway. It's my XJ, not yours. I'm just presenting facts. No need to get pissed off because there are other viable options that you don't agree with simply because "I've seen 35 axles break." Or you know someone who has. For all this talk and banter about the axles breaking, ONLY the axles break i've heard so far. I don't see where the logic in a super 35 axle is wrong when other people have suggested it to be the strength of a D44 cast at 4340 which would in theory make it stronger than the 44. Especially since the stock 44 splines are cut, NOT rolled.

About the only flaw I see in a D35 that's been re-geared with stronger axles and a locker is that the axle tubing could hit a rock and break. But that doesn't really apply to me since I try to stay away from them since I've hit my rear axle a couple of times in my old cherokee on some solid rocks. It never broke anything but it was enough to make me realize that I should probably keep away from them.

I already said I would keep in the market for a cheap 8.25 when one pops up, but until them I'm running the super 35 until it breaks. Because it CAN'T be returned, and how would I sell it when it's an obvious subject of flaming on this site? I'm not. That leaves two options: use it, or junk it. What would you do $400 of axle that you can't return or sell? If you chose the ladder I'd say you were mentally challenged.

And FYI I'm actually swapping down to 32x11.50's in the near future as well because I like the stock fenders but I don't like the rub I get. The lift is slowly starting to lower.

Don't assume. It just ... well you know.
 
I think you should ditch the 33's and get some 35's or 37's. Your axles will be much better off with the extra rubber reducing stress.



[/BS]
 
I honestly feel I Must post. For others that might read this and seem to feel that maybe your right, but your not...

You want real world experience?

I have been building Jeep axles and Gearing for years. I specialize in JEEPS...

I can recall 7 (and If I went thru invoices I am sure this is about 1/4 of the actual total over the years) D35 axles from TJ's and XJ's (Same gears, axles, tubes, etc) that have been brought to me to remove pieces of ring & pinion gears from inside the diff, and rebuild. 2 of which were brought back a second time (same syndrome that you have currently I think), to be rebuilt again due to breakage.

A dana 35 has a Very small R&P set. Then add in to the mix a lower ratio, which reduces that even further and multiples the tq even further and you get significantly increased chances of R&P failure.

Then add in the small 27spline axles (YOUR "super 35" axles are not Super 35 axles, they are alloy stock sized) and your axle diameter is so small that it makes the D35 a very weak assembly there also. Yes your aftermarket axles you bought might help a bit, but in my PROFESSIONAL JEEP experience, is a waste of money if not a increased spline size/OD.

Then do the worst thing you can to the D35 and add in a auto locker like the lockrite, spartan, or aussie (even a Detroit) and you really increase the chance of axle breakage.

If you have never driven a auto locked rear axle vehicle then you won't get this, and you should listen to reason here and professional advice, if you have driven a locked rear rig, then you will understand this...
Take a glass coffee table (dana 35) and put say a 75lbs weight on the center of the unsupported glass top (power being applied to the D35 axles), your prolly ok right? Prolly at this point... BUT then take a key in your hand and strike the glass near that 75lbs weight (the locker mid ratchet engaging) and the table top shatters (the D35 axle breaks). Shock loading...

Mix that with a 4.6 stroker (if you really have one) and your pushing that D35 beyond its limits without even a bigger tire or lower ratio gear set.

Do what you feel is best for you. If thats spending money now and paying for experience, then so be it. If its listening to 95% of Everyone here, and spending your money on a assembly that will not fail at some point and not wasting your money for experience, just reliability, then so be it...

Good luck.
 
I couldn't agree more with ROBERTK!

Wayne, you have come here asking for advice and we have given it. I feel that you have spit in everybody's face with your indignant attitude. If you don't like the advice of seasoned offroaders, you don't have to take it! BUT, don't be surprised if things don't turn out the way your "newb-logic" thinks they should. Good luck with your project and keep us posted on how the destruction goes.

PS. Next time, please do a little research and at least learn the terminology of the questions you are asking. I quit reading your long, rambling posts when I realized that I couldn't make heads or tails of what you were planning to do
 
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kastein said:
Stockaxle syndrome... its like stockholm syndrome but can be cured with some thought and a trip to the you-pull-it for a $130 29 spline 8.25.

When you are dropping hundreds on parts, the sane thing to do is to drop a little extra for an axle that is known to stand up to your tire size before doing it, so you don't throw good money after bad. But hey, do whatever you want, it's a free country. I do suggest that you think about what will happen if you blow a shaft though - hint: your wheel falls off if that happens to you on a d35. If the wheel falls off, so does the brake drum. Ever try stopping when nothing is holding one of your brake cylinders back and you're on 3 wheels?

But hey I don't know anything, I haven't personally broken a d35. For me, watching them suck on other people's rigs is enough for me to not run one (to quote a friend of mine.)

I'm probably beating a dead horse here since you appear to like your d35 as it hasn't kicked you in the balls yet - but hey, if it gets you thinking and you go with an axle that isn't known to suck as a result, it was worth it.
Click to expand...
they 8.25 is c-clip as well... a broken shaft would result in the same head ache as a 35. but the 8,25 is indeed stronger. thicker shafts, thicker/bigger splines. bigger housing, carrier, and ring gear.

HttpWayne said:
Can anyone here tell me they've broken a super 35 axle? I am yet to hear anything of this nature. The one I have is forged, not cast, with SAE-4340 alloy steel on rolled splines, not cut. 30% stronger steel shafts with 35% stronger spline design from stock. Numbers don't replace quality. I prefer a 65% increase in strength to 3 splines.

So I know if people can run stock D35s with 35" tires, probably because they're intelligent and know their limitations, then I should be safe with 33's since. I've owned another jeep cherokee with completely a completely stock dana 35 with 31x10.50's and have used it like a trophy truck out in the hills of 29 palms, and on plenty of trails in big bear mountain without fail. I know I'll be just fine with this setup since I won't be doing with this what I did with that.
Click to expand...
the shafts you have are not "super 35", they are not from superior ring and pinion, and they are not 30 spline. in their description they even say, "we retain the stock spline count and shaft diameter so you dont have to replace bearings, seals, carrier, etc..." thats BS, its no a super 35 shaft, its an aftermarket chromo with a fancy well known name, meant to fool people.




as far as the "car-parts.com" questions...
- "grade A" means exactly that, its prime, in good condition, and ready to bolt in.
- ring/pinion and master install kit for the 35 will cost you 200-$350 depending on what you get. if you find a 8.25 in that range with the gear ratio you want, then scoop it. another nice thing to think about... you mentioned this is your DD and you dont want it down for long, thats why you wanted to keep the 35. buy a JY axle will give you the opportunity to gear it and rebuild it (brakes, seals, etc...) on the bench while you can still drive your jeep.
- plug in your area code and sarch for a "dana spicer 44" out of a '87 cherokee. i found an XJ44 in my area for $250. you may get lucky.

some info:
to be honest... especially in an axle like the 35, i would WANT my shafts to be the weak link. if you spend good money on gears, then throw in chromos, your making your ring and pinion your weak link. the housing and carrier are known to be weak and flex, this deflection causes most ring and pinion failures. for the price to properly build a 35 to remedy all of these problems (sleeved, trussed, full case locker, heavy duty diff cover, 30 spline chromos) you could easily build an XJ D44 and spend less money.

and im going to be rude here, but dont do the install yourself. take it to someone that warranties their work. and while your there ask them what they think of the 35.
 
yep the 8.25 is c clip too... but you aren't going to break a shaft in it with 33s. You will with a d35.

Frankly I am pretty sure this is a hopeless thread. I realized this when he said that his super 35 (but not really) shafts that were "cast at 4340" are theoretically as strong as d44 shafts. I should have realized it far earlier, too.
 
ya know what I just realized, and thank the OP for this tread since I never noticed before.

I thought Rocky Road was a decent company, I never ordered anything or heard complaints, but after review of thier site, I see they think that only Newbs would be looking at thier crap.

the first and foremost questionable claim on thier site:
[SIZE=+1]All Rocky Road built products are proudly...[/SIZE]
​


I CALL BS! Unless thier mean ONLY a few items which are literally "built" by someone they know local.

Cause those shafts that the OP bought are NOT MADE IN THE USA, I can guarantee that!... Not to mention 400$ for a set of alloy shafts? OUCH! we sell em for 299 and thats even a High GP...
 
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