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Full bodied MJ on 42.5 boggers

So the bed and cab are mated together via the boatside? Any detail shots on this, as well as how you modified the lower door?
 
SkinnyRidgeMJ said:
My rear leaves are from a Chevy Tahoe because they are the same length from the center pin to the front eyelet but 5 inches shorter in the rear and has the same spring rate. That allowed me to bob the rear 13 inches and still keep the springs from hanging out past the rear bumper.
Click to expand...

quoted for excellent tech info and to subscribe
 
I don't have any good pics from doing the boatside. Basically I welded a 1/4" x 2" strip along the body line, cut just below it, then cut along the pinchweld on the floor. The hard part was cutting the lines connecting them. I used 1/4" x 8" plate on the sides. I just cut through the doors and everything, tacked the plate on and cut the door out. If you cut it right there are no gaps after its welded up. Then I welded a 1" x 1" square tube along the bottom. Ill try n get some pics tomorrow. I decided to connect the cab and bed for two main reasons. One: There is no support for the boatside on the bed portion. Two: I could not get the bed and cab to misalign, even on a rti. After two years of wheeling it, it has yet to crack.

 
Yeah those boatsides are pretty sick....but how thick?

EDIT: just saw that last post with the 1/4".....how'd the hell you weld that to thin sheet?
 
DeftwillP said:
Yeah those boatsides are pretty sick....but how thick?

EDIT: just saw that last post with the 1/4".....how'd the hell you weld that to thin sheet?
Click to expand...
you start the weld on the 1/4" and bring it into the thin stuff
 
Here are a couple of building my flares.
I had the main shape bent up at the local steel shed as my bender wouldn't make short radius bends.






A little paintable seam sealer spread on the fender to flare seam with my finger and it looked good.
 
Redneck Military wrap. I ran a support to the front leaf bolt because I don't think the factory built the sheet metal spring mount with 42.5s and 190:1 crawl ratio in mind...

 
Do my hood vents look familiar? They cover the speaker on the front door panel of a early xj. And way easier to find than Lebaron vents.



This was right before paint.
 
Ran my front brake lines today. I was having trouble getting the lines to reach at full droop without having a big coil that hit the tire or shock at ride height. So I ran the line down the front control arm and split it at the axle. I used a stock rear xj hose on the axle and a 60s mustang front hose to go from the body to the control arm. All 3/16 double flare.

 
I will probably do something like that... but I would go on the upper arm to keep it away from rocks and such a bit more, having it down there makes me nervous.
 
That's why I put it on top of the control arm. My upper arm is real close to the exhaust and bell housing. Rocks should be ok but ill have to be careful of big sticks and branches. I still think it will fare better than the lines coming off the frame to each wheel.
 
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