Front camber angle, offset balljoints?

[kastein]

If you feel like it you can pull the axle housing out of the vehicle (or drop it down enough to remove the coil springs) and use a BFH to pound on the inner Cs and bend them outwards a tiny bit. It won't take much to correct your camber.

I did this on an axle that came into my possession with 3+ degrees of camber on each side from a few awesome Dukes of Hazzard jumps by the previous owner, and have run it for something like 25-30 thousand miles now with no adverse tire wear (on two separate sets of tires, both back when it was stock height still and after lifting it and putting my 33s on it.)

I wouldn't bother though. You're close enough to spec that it shouldn't really matter that much unless it has some screwy handling characteristics.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Camber*** Kastein edit your post before mass confusion arises lol

 

[kastein]

doh. Brainfart, done.

I got it right on the second time I said it :gee:

 

[GoBlue]

With camber, you are correct. If the C's were truely 100% vertical (0.00 degrees camber), then it would not change when rotated. Since this is not true, when you lift the vehicle it becomes exponentially worse. Some cases less than others. Out of the 8 or so cherokee I've aligned, none of them had perfect camber. None.

If it's really that worth it to you, go ahead with the balljoints. Of course get the hubs done first and re-check. I know my front camber is off pretty hard on my left front, so I just rotate my tires religiously every 2500 miles. If the edges start feathering more than my liking, I'll dismount all 4 and flip them (No white lettering )

Good to know all of this. So, as said a few posts ago, cant I just adjust my control arms to make up for the rotation? I cant imagine it would be much more than a few turns. Maybe Im lucky to have it only off by .25.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Yes, you can. The joy of adjustable control arms. In your case your to-do list should go as follows:

-fix hub

-decide on a final lift height. If you don't plan on messing with your setup for a while, proceed. Otherwise hold off until you're at your final height.

-have it realigned. set caster by adjusting control arms (here you want as much positive caster as possible, before you get front pinion vibes)

-decide if the camber issue is still an issue, and address accordingly with ball joints.

-set your toe.

Around here we have a 1 year unlimited alignment for around $100. This is a steal if you can't do your own, and need things dialed in. It can take some trial and error, but a well aligned jeep is well worth it.

 

[GoBlue]

Yes, you can. The joy of adjustable control arms. In your case your to-do list should go as follows:

-fix hub

-decide on a final lift height. If you don't plan on messing with your setup for a while, proceed. Otherwise hold off until you're at your final height.

-have it realigned. set caster by adjusting control arms (here you want as much positive caster as possible, before you get front pinion vibes)

-decide if the camber issue is still an issue, and address accordingly with ball joints.

-set your toe.

Around here we have a 1 year unlimited alignment for around $100. This is a steal if you can't do your own, and need things dialed in. It can take some trial and error, but a well aligned jeep is well worth it.

Thank you, that is great info, especially the unlimited alignment...

I have a quick question while were on topic. I put a set of 31's on that are slightly used. One in particular, has wear from improper toe-in (shoulder wear), and it has since been flipped on the wheel.

This might sound stupid, but when I drive, the worn side (inside now) shows dirt on the tread, kind of like its not touching the ground. With a good alignment on a worn tire this is what is supposed to happen, right?

 

[bigdummy30]

bumping this...

i had a high pinion 30 CAD in my xj with a single hole mounting point and swapped to a low pinion out of a tj with the slotted mounting point....i have clayton long arms with about 6.5"s of lift and 35's ...my problem is when i swapped axles my CAMBER changed dramatically to the point that its causing very offset wear....i know my toe in/out is off which will be getting adjusted when i put my new clayton trackbar in and the axles gets recentered ...

ive read on other forums about adjusting the frame mounted end of my long arms will affect the camber and im sure the slotted axle ends will do something ..will adjusting the radius arms do anything?? what should be my plan of attack for gettign rid of my christmas tree wheels /-\

 

[rockthrasherxj]

1a auto has a pair of hubs for less than 100 shipped i did mune about 2 months ago and no complaints from it easy fix and both cost a lil more than one at vatozone

 

[DanMan2k06]

The ONLY thing that will affect your camber (in terms of adjustment) are offset ball joints. The new axle you swapped in probably had worse angles in the "C" than your old one. Trying to adjust mounting points, whether its axle side or frame side, will do nothing. You need balljoints.