For those with 35's on 4.5

[x2elite]

Do you have any pics of your current setup?
and is your backspacing 4"?

I believe my current wheels have 3.75" backspacing. Here is a photo.

 

[TNT]

I believe my current wheels have 3.75" backspacing. Here is a photo.

I find it very hard to believe that you don't rub with 33x12.50-15's with 3.75" of backspacing running 4.5" of lift with only 1-2" of bumpstop and uncut fenders. There is no way you can fully stuff and steer from lock to lock without rubbing in the front. The rears won't stuff no way no how...

:looney: I say BS... :looney:

I ran 33x10.50-15's with 4" of backspacing on 15x7 rims with 5" of lift. I had 11" of travel in the front and 12" in the rear. To keep the tires from rubbing I ran 3.5" of bumpstop in the front and 3" in the rear. I had to cut front fenders and raise my front flares to the bodyline. In the rear I had to cut and fold the seams and stretch the rear flares as wide as possible.

Here's a picture of the front tire fully stuffed. I can steer from lock to lock without rubbing.

Here's a picture of the rear just touching the bumpstop.

 

[x2elite]

Fully stuffed my Rears will rub a little, but I hardly ever notice. My Fronts don't rub anywhere, but on the control arms at full lock. My tires measure out at 32.6", my lift is a 4.5 inch lift, but if I had to guess I would say I actually got around 5-5.5 inches of lift over stock.

 

[TNT]

Then I must have longer travel shocks that allow more droop. The increased droop allow the other side to stuff farther.

I still find it hard to believe because I needed 2.5" bumpstops up front with 9" travel front shocks and my cut fenders to keep from rubbing. If my swaybar was hooked up then clearance is no big deal. I ran the 33x10.50-15's with no lift the way the fenders are cut and the fronts would only rub with the swaybar disconnected.

 

[JasonCherokee]

Here is a pic of mine at 4.5" of lift, lots of fender trimming and no front bumpstops with 35" swampers.

Here is the rear with no bumpstops and normal rear fender trimming. The back would just start to rub so I added some rear bumpstop to stop my flex right about the time the rear leaves would flatten out.

 

[x2elite]

Thats awesome. So with BW flares, and bumpstops I should be just fine. Thanks for the pics man.

 

[cloudswimmer]

Fully stuffed my Rears will rub a little, but I hardly ever notice. My Fronts don't rub anywhere, but on the control arms at full lock. My tires measure out at 32.6", my lift is a 4.5 inch lift, but if I had to guess I would say I actually got around 5-5.5 inches of lift over stock.

What kind of lift kit is it?Again my Rubicon Express 5.5" Extreme Duty lift kit would not clear 33x12.50 tires on 4" bs rims and stock fenders and flares.Your 4.5" kit must be taller than my 5.5" kit.

 

[Trail-Axe]

What kind of lift kit is it?Again my Rubicon Express 5.5" Extreme Duty lift kit would not clear 33x12.50 tires on 4" bs rims and stock fenders and flares.Your 4.5" kit must be taller than my 5.5" kit.

When you say; "would not clear," you are talking about when it flexes right? What did you do to gain the added space needed? ...BW flares, raise your stock flares, or something else?

Thanks bro,
Gar

 

[cloudswimmer]

When you say; "would not clear," you are talking about when it flexes right? What did you do to gain the added space needed? ...BW flares, raise your stock flares, or something else?

Thanks bro,
Gar

Yes when it flexes.What I ended up doing is raising the lift more, 1.5" blocks in rear with a traction bar to control axle wrap from the blocks, and JKS ACOS up front.There was still some very minor rubbing when flexing and turning, so I added the JKS bumpstop system that lets you add or subtract aluminum 'pucks' to fine tune bumpstop height.This is why I find it odd that the OP has no problems with 4.5" and 33x12.50's on 3.75" backspace.

 

[x2elite]

What kind of lift kit is it?Again my Rubicon Express 5.5" Extreme Duty lift kit would not clear 33x12.50 tires on 4" bs rims and stock fenders and flares.Your 4.5" kit must be taller than my 5.5" kit.

I find that odd..... there are tons of people on here running that kit with 33's and no rubbing issues. I am telling you, I can probably run the 35's on the street without even trimming, as long as I slow down for the big bumps. I run 33's with quite a bit of room to spare.

 

[Trail-Axe]

I find that odd..... there are tons of people on here running that kit with 33's and no rubbing issues. I am telling you, I can probably run the 35's on the street without even trimming, as long as I slow down for the big bumps. I run 33's with quite a bit of room to spare.

Slowing down for the speed bumps at the mall is not what we were talking about brother.

 

[Kejtar]

Slowing down for the speed bumps at the mall is not what we were talking about brother.

I got 4.5" coils up front with a spacer and 4.5" RE packs with the RE shackle in the rear and I rubbed on 33's and I rub with 35's. I just trimmed more when I went to 35's..... Oh yeah, and flex is kind of good in both directions not only one

If you want to run 35's just be ready to do some more hacking

 

[cloudswimmer]

I find that odd..... there are tons of people on here running that kit with 33's and no rubbing issues. I am telling you, I can probably run the 35's on the street without even trimming, as long as I slow down for the big bumps. I run 33's with quite a bit of room to spare.

Rubicon Express even states in their catalog 33's will require trimming with their 5.5" kit.You have definitely more than a 4.5" kit if you can fully flex, turn your wheels, and not rub anything, either that or really stiff springs .I'm curious what axles and gears your going to run the 35's with?

 

[TNT]

Here is a pic of mine at 4.5" of lift, lots of fender trimming and no front bumpstops with 35" swampers.

You may think you don't have bumpstops, but you are bottoming out your shocks making them you're bumpstops. Your shocks are longer then stock shocks are so they limit your uptravel.

You should add bumpstops so they contact just before you shock bottoms out. Otherwise you run the risk of destroying your shocks.

If 33" or 35" tires would fit without bumpstops they would fit with no lift and just some fender trimming.

I can stuff 33" tires about 2"-3" further into the wheelwell then your 35's are. I relocated my shock mounts 2" lower then stock because of the added shock length when fully compressed. This allows for more up travel but I still can't use run without bumpstops because my tire would compress about 2" beyond the bodyline(my shocks would bottom out first thou).

Take off your shock on the side thats compressed to see how far they really stuff. Your coil springs will probably bind before you reach full compression.

 

[x2elite]

My xj sees more offroad than on thank you. I'll be running an 8.8 and 30 for now. Locked rear with 4.56s.

 

[HeavyMetal]

35s on 4.5 long arm works 100% with no issues to speak of

 

[cloudswimmer]

Ok 35's on 4.5" of lift obviously will give you lower center of gravity, but aren't you also decreasing approach and departure angles, and more prone to hanging up on your rock rails and belly skids?What would be considered a sweet spot lift height for running 35's in the rocks?

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

i think 4.5 with 33's or 35's is perfct, your high enough to go over 90% of stuff and low enough not to be tipsy, with that bein said, when my jeep is done this spring ill be runnin 4.5" with 35" Claws, just trim and bumpsop till she dont rub

 

[TNT]

Ok 35's on 4.5" of lift obviously will give you lower center of gravity, but aren't you also decreasing approach and departure angles, and more prone to hanging up on your rock rails and belly skids?What would be considered a sweet spot lift height for running 35's in the rocks?

My opinion is 5"-6" of lift and tons of fender cutting. But I have a shortbox MJ that will be on 65" wide axles... I like uptravel because I like to go fast besides crawl. On a XJ about 5" is perfect.

Here's a picture of what I call cut fenders and raised flares. Thats 6" of lift with 33" tires. There is 11" between the tire and the flare.

 

[ktm racer 419]

Ok 35's on 4.5" of lift obviously will give you lower center of gravity, but aren't you also decreasing approach and departure angles, and more prone to hanging up on your rock rails and belly skids?What would be considered a sweet spot lift height for running 35's in the rocks?

i run 37's with 4" of lift. after running loads of black and many red rated trails including a competition my approach/departure angle has never slowed me down. sure i hit my bumpers at times but it only ends in a scratch.

as far as hanging up on rock rails goes, i dont have rock rails... teehee. but in every situation where i was on my rockers... well doors in some cases or belly skid or frame, with lockers i was always able to drive off it.

with that being said, i would rather scratch a bumper or use a skid plate than end up on my roof with my tires in the air.

oh.. and got flex?