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Flat towing an XJ with another XJ

Yeah, I decided against it. Although probly wouldn't go through Dallas, was going to use the back roads going down near abilene. The tow bar is minimum $100+. I was going to use this as an excuse to buy one so I could tow in the future too. Driving both rigs to go offroading is not that great. My wife and I both love to wheel but she doesn't want to drive if we're going more that an hour or so away. and since her's is in better shape (interior wise, its a limited) we take hers. Really frustrating when Mine is the bigger one and it doesn't ever get wheeled.
 
If you do decide to try the tow, I would usse your wifes since it has smaller tires. this would be easier on the tranny and brakes. Another thing to consider is a late night drive. My girlfriend and I went to SC from Ohio and we didn't want to run AC or get into traffic so I left around 6 pm and got there about 3 am was a great drive and the motor and tranny stayed very cool in the appalachian mountains.
 
Blaine B. said:
Pull the driveshafts, sometimes if you leave the transfer case in neutral it locks both driveshafts together in neutral.

Espeically essential if using a dolly.
Click to expand...

They are both 98's, the owners manual specifically states t-case in neutral, trans in park or gear.

Everyone is so quick to suggest pulling d-shafts, but I have pulled a 95 yj from CO to NY on a dolly, and the recent pull of a 2000 XJ for 90 miles on a dolly, both per factory recommendation without issue. From what I have read, some older jeeps had an issue with this??
 
I posted this a while back from my 1988 owners manual....I would think it applies to the newer models as well. It was taken word for word from the manual.

B.RAIDER said:
Recreational Towing
(Behind Motorhome, etc.)
Use the following procedure to prepare your vehicle for towing.
Selec-Trac
Caution: It is necessary to follow these steps to be certain that the transfer case is fully in N (Neutral) before recreational towing to prevent damage to internal parts.
1. Shift transmission into N (Neutral).
2. Shift transfer case lever into N (Neutral).
Note: The FULL TIME light will stay on.
3. Shift transmission into D (Drive) and make sure there is no vehicle movement.
4. Turn ignition key to the unlocked OFF position.
5. Shift transmission into P (Park).
WARNING: With the transfer case in N (Neutral) position, the vehicle could roll unexpectedly. The parking brake should always be applied when the driver is not in the vehicle.
6. Attach vehicle to the tow vehicle with tow bar.
Caution: Do not use a bumper mounted clamp-on tow bar on your vehicle. The bumper face bar will be damaged.

Command-Trac
Caution: It is necessary to follow these steps to be certain that the transfer case is fully in N (Neutral) and that the axle is completely disengaged before recreational towing to prevent damage to internal parts.
1. Shift transfer case to 2H and check that the PART TIME light goes out.
2. Drive vehicle 10 ft. (3 m) rearward and then 10 ft. (3 m) forward to make sure the axle is disengaged.
3. Shift transmission to Neutral.
4. Turn off the engine with the ignition key in the unlocked off position.
5. Shift transfer case lever from 2H to N (Neutral) position.
6. Shift manual transmission into gear or automatic transmission into P (Park)
WARNING: With the transfer case in N (Neutral) position, the vehicle could roll unexpectedly. The parking brake should always be applied when the driver is not in the vehicle.
7. Attach vehicle to the tow vehicle with tow bar.
Caution: Do not use a bumper mounted clamp-on tow bar on your vehicle. The bumper face bar will be damaged.
Click to expand...
 
This issue always gets complicated because some time in the mid 90s the T-case neutral was changed. The older ones would not allow you to dolly tow without removing the DS because they didnt have a "true" neutral (the front and rear drivelines were connected when in N ). The later models were changed and they have a "true" neutral in which the front and rear drivelines are not connected, so no need to remove the DS. It doesnt help the issue that the owners manuals were not updated when the t-case was changed so its not always accurate. I wish I could say exactly what year the change was. I can say that my 96XJ has a true neutral, my 95YJ and my 99TJ also have true neutrals. If you want to know for sure, put your t-case in N and jack up just the rearend and see if you can spin the rear DS with the frontend still on the ground.
 
My 1987 NP231 is true Neutral. Rear shaft spins even with front on the ground and vice versa....

Funny thing is, when I tow I put the trans in neutral too.....I wonder why AMC wants mine in Park......
 
poorboy_616 said:
My 1987 NP231 is true Neutral. Rear shaft spins even with front on the ground and vice versa....

Funny thing is, when I tow I put the trans in neutral too.....I wonder why AMC wants mine in Park......
Click to expand...

Yours has a front axle disconnect, I'll bet your front DS is spinning when the rear one is, your front wheels dont turn though because of the disconnect.
You put the tranny in P to keep the input shaft on the t-case from spinning at all. There will be some spinning of the input shaft even if the t-case is in N because of the friction of the fluid. With the tranny in gear, it keep it from turning.
 
TO revive an old post and ask another question:

I finally got a tow bar and the mounts bolt through the bumper. So the stock bumper is strong enough for this? I'm kinda worried the btock steel isn't up to the task. THen could I use the mounts as a recovery point?
 
I have flat towed my xj for roughly 18,000 miles. Never have I ever had to pull a drive shaft for anything. Even with 4:10's the transfercase stays nice and cool. Never had brakes either. Towed behind my exploder, the truck and the motorhome never a problem. But behind another XJ I would do a dollie for the brakeing.... It's not the go part to worry about it"s the stop part.
 
Blaine B. said:
Pull the driveshafts, sometimes if you leave the transfer case in neutral it locks both driveshafts together in neutral.

Espeically essential if using a dolly.
Click to expand...

now why would you pull the front shaft when the front end is on the dolly???? pulling the JUST the back shaft would make way more sence..
 
If you are towing flat (not using a dolly) then yes you would want both driveshafts removed. Safest way. Sure you can leave the transmission in park and the transfer case in neutral (if flat towing and rear driveshaft is removed) but what about the slim chance that it pops out of neutral?

Removing both driveshafts removes this worry entirely.

Depends on how long your trip is and how much risk you want to take, I guess.
 
Blaine B. said:
If you are towing flat (not using a dolly) then yes you would want both driveshafts removed. Safest way. Sure you can leave the transmission in park and the transfer case in neutral (if flat towing and rear driveshaft is removed) but what about the slim chance that it pops out of neutral?

Removing both driveshafts removes this worry entirely.

Depends on how long your trip is and how much risk you want to take, I guess.
Click to expand...


Do not put the transmission in park. The front tires still turn to follow you. If for some reason the ignition gets turned off the wheel will lock. Not a good idea
 
itbrokeagain said:
Do not put the transmission in park. The front tires still turn to follow you. If for some reason the ignition gets turned off the wheel will lock. Not a good idea
Click to expand...


yes, put the trans in park, otherwise you risk smoking the trans. without putting some kind of resistance on the tcase when its in neutral it will start to spin the output on the trans and since the pump is on the input of the trans you get no lubrication

owners manual even says to tow with the tcase in neutral and the trans in park (or in gear for a manual)
 
my uncle has flat towed his xj 17,000+ miles with no issues, you just have to have a head on your shoulders and double check everything...t-case in neutral, trans in park, steering unlocked
 
so far no one has raised any issues with the strength of the stock front bumper for mounting the tow bar brackets. Not going to use them for recovery points of course since I managed to get a tow hook mounted up front.
 
About to do this with mine. The front bumper is not strong enough (IMO) to handle the tow. the metal is too thin. remove the front bumper and mount the tow bar clips to the frame rails.

have an AM bumper on mine, so going straight to it, but if i didnt, the above is what i would do
 
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