drop brackets

[XJedi23]

It really seamed like the upper hole was nearly 1/2" off. will every thing align properly once its tightened. Also the 2 "shim" bolts were going in at about 15 degrees off horizontal. Tolerances definatly out the window!

 

[jeepcomj]

have a bent frame (unibody)? someting you should consider

 

[XJedi23]

I would think that the area between the Upper and lower CA mounts would be strong as hell and not as prone to twist. :dunno:

 

[boise49ers]

You would be ok if you have the braces. You won't get as much articulation. Plan on adjustable LCAs at some point.
I have lower adjustables and stock uppers.So they still flex because of how they are made.
I do 835 on an RTI on a 30 Degree ramp.

Because the way the front lower bushing lines up with the Axle mount. With fixed arm they will only drop as far as the mount will allow because the way the bolt runs Horisontal thru the it. With the adjustables they twist and allow it droop more with out binding. If you look closely at the picture of the RED XJ that is on the thread earlier it kind of gives you an idea what I'm talking about. You catuallu have to notch part of where the Trac bar mount on the Passenger side because it catchs on the metal surrounding the mount bracket. I could get some pics probably and show you what I mean for both the adjustables and the trac bar.

 

[Begster]

What you described is due to the Superflex joint, which are found on both RE adjustable and fixed arms. Adjustable crontrols arms only adjust inward and outward, to give you lenght, they do not twist. They have a jam nut that is supposed to be tightened to prevent them from twisting.

 

[boise49ers]

What you described is due to the Superflex joint, which are found on both RE adjustable and fixed arms. Adjustable crontrols arms only adjust inward and outward, to give you lenght, they do not twist. They have a jam nut that is supposed to be tightened to prevent them from twisting.

Oh we have the superflex control arms then. Ours do not have jam nuts and flex with the mount. I think they are Teraflex. My other son has JCRs that do the same thing.

 

[cal]

Because the way the front lower bushing lines up with the Axle mount. With fixed arm they will only drop as far as the mount will allow because the way the bolt runs Horisontal thru the it. With the adjustables they twist and allow it droop more with out binding. If you look closely at the picture of the RED XJ that is on the thread earlier it kind of gives you an idea what I'm talking about. You catuallu have to notch part of where the Trac bar mount on the Passenger side because it catchs on the metal surrounding the mount bracket. I could get some pics probably and show you what I mean for both the adjustables and the trac bar.

I think whats happening here, is you don't actually know what you are talking about.

EDIT: (that wasn't meant to be offensive in the way it probably came out) :EDIT:

You are talking about ARTICULATING control arms, and not ADJUSTABLE control arms. A "adjustable" arm states only that you can adjust the length - and any -quality- adjustable arm will not articulate for the reasons I stated in a prior post on this thread.

For any given arm manufacturer, if you put ther adjustable vs fixed arm on the same rig, they will both flex and droop exactly the same.

Your Tera arms are adjustble yes, but thats really incidental. Your arms have thick acme threads that are designed to let the arm twist, because of the cheap rubber bushings used at both ends of the arm. Eventually those threads will wear out and leave you with sloppy control arms - or the threads will just tear out of the arm entirely. A quality adjustable arm will have a jam nut to stop it from articulating, and then have a flex joint at one or both ends to allow suspension flex. The joints are usually welded on offset to the tube to get more droop without hitting the frame mount as well (something else you brought up), but that is also 100% irrelivent to 'adjustable'.

Look here, the arm is upside down in the picture, but you can see the rubber bushing at the frame end, the flex bushing at the axle end, the offset tube to clear the mounts at the axle end and the jam nut to stop the threads from articulating. This is a rubicon express superflex adjustable.

Here is the same arm in fixed. Notice everything is the same, except you cant adjust the length.

If you feel thats not going to be enough articulation for you, Currie offers adjustable arms (with jam nut) that have flex joints on both ends - but you give up a little comfort removing the rubber bushing.

 

[balloo93]

Because the way the front lower bushing lines up with the Axle mount. With fixed arm they will only drop as far as the mount will allow because the way the bolt runs Horisontal thru the it. With the adjustables they twist and allow it droop more with out binding. If you look closely at the picture of the RED XJ that is on the thread earlier it kind of gives you an idea what I'm talking about. You catuallu have to notch part of where the Trac bar mount on the Passenger side because it catchs on the metal surrounding the mount bracket. I could get some pics probably and show you what I mean for both the adjustables and the trac bar.

I think you are thinking of the JKS adjustable arms that do twist. Great design and they flex VERY well. Most other amrs use jam nuts to lock the bushings into postion.

I run the Currie arms and they do give up quite a bit of comfort. My XJ isn't really a daily driver though so it's not that bad for me.

 

[boise49ers]

I think you are thinking of the JKS adjustable arms that do twist. Great design and they flex VERY well. Most other amrs use jam nuts to lock the bushings into postion.

I run the Currie arms and they do give up quite a bit of comfort. My XJ isn't really a daily driver though so it's not that bad for me.


cal

submariner
wrote:I think whats happening here, is you don't actually know what you are talking about.

EDIT: (that wasn't meant to be offensive in the way it probably came out) :EDIT:

Yep JKS. The Tera's have seen some pretty wicked trails and are still stout as hell. I'm sure if I beat them every weekend they would start to show wear. But they do flex more then RE and lengthen when you let them out. Yes you did offend me with the post CAL. Go to the link below and make your assumption that I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm not real offened just I have had similar accusations over HELP threads where I was
vindicated, then you never hear another word about it.
Driveline angles ! But hey aint' that big a deal. Oh I haven't added the families last 2 Jeeps either. Daughter 07 Liberty and youngest son with the Red90 XJ got an 89 MJ he is building too. He may strip down the Red XJ and put it all in the MJ.

http://myweb.cableone.net/cherokeexj/

 

[boise49ers]

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16190_009.htm

Hey look what Quadratrac calls these silly things ? Ours came off a TJ too so they are just like this.

 

[Kittrell]

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16190_009.htm

Hey look what Quadratrac calls these silly things ? Ours came off a TJ too so they are just like this.

You're right it is adjustable, in that when it is off the vehicle, you can turn the arm for length. But when it is affixed to the mounts it is now a torsion style arm, "flexing" with the vehicle. Which is why Tera calls it a FlexArm. The arm twists when the suspension cycles. A standard "adjustable" arm does not.

 

[cal]

I can live with a non forum supporter who is putting out bad information through the confusion of terms being offended. It doesn't change the fact that you are wrong, adjustable control arms has NOTHING to do with this.

The fact is you are talking about arms that *articulate*, and their being adjustable is 100% incidental.. as has been stated a couple of times now. I even brought up pictures of adjustable and fixed arms of the same brand - show me how the adjustable ones are going to flex better?

Or admit that you freaking meant to use the word 'articulating'.

 

[boise49ers]

I can live with a non forum supporter who is putting out bad information through the confusion of terms being offended. It doesn't change the fact that you are wrong, adjustable control arms has NOTHING to do with this.

The fact is you are talking about arms that *articulate*, and their being adjustable is 100% incidental.. as has been stated a couple of times now. I even brought up pictures of adjustable and fixed arms of the same brand - show me how the adjustable ones are going to flex better?

Or admit that you freaking meant to use the word 'articulating'.

Dude calm down ! Yes I meant Atrticulate. I wasn't here trying to pick a fucking fight. I was just trying to give some info about the way mine was set up. I don't have 3600 post so don't use it as much as you and right now I'm lucky to make my mortage with the way things are going. I'm about done here. No wonder Okie Terry and them started a different forum.

 

[cal]

Dude calm down ! Yes I meant Atrticulate. I wasn't hear trying to pick a fucking fight. I was just trying to give some info about the way mine was set up. I don't have 3600 post so don't use it as much as you and right now I'm lucky to make my mortage with the way things are going. I'm about done here. No wonder Okie Terry and them started a different forum.

I wasn't trying to pick a fight either, nor was I out to offend anyone, and really I don't care of your a forum supporter, member, or not. Anyone who's been here a while will tell you any of the above.

I was getting frustrated that after having the mistake (in terms / ideas) pointed out to you in post 38, you continued to run with it and confuse the original poster through 2 (i think?) more posts, arguing that you were right and ignoring what started off as a (semi) polite correction.

:beer:


Back to the original poster.

Yes, drop brackets are the way to go. Yes, you can run them with fixed lowers and adjustable uppers. I did exactly that at 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7 and now back down to 5.75 inches of lift (after springs have settled). I went that route because I didn't want to have threads / jam nuts to drag over the rocks, but still wanted to be able to adjust my caster.

When I rebuilt my housing, I moved the upper control arm mounts forward a little to get the upper and lower lengths closer - so my pinion angle doesnt change as much during articuation now, and so I dont have my arms adjusted down to their absolute shortest setting.

 

[boise49ers]

You're right it is adjustable, in that when it is off the vehicle, you can turn the arm for length. But when it is affixed to the mounts it is now a torsion style arm, "flexing" with the vehicle. Which is why Tera calls it a FlexArm. The arm twists when the suspension cycles. A standard "adjustable" arm does not.

Correct !

 

[boise49ers]

I wasn't trying to pick a fight either, nor was I out to offend anyone, and really I don't care of your a forum supporter, member, or not. Anyone who's been here a while will tell you any of the above.

I was getting frustrated that after having the mistake (in terms / ideas) pointed out to you in post 38, you continued to run with it and confuse the original poster through 2 (i think?) more posts, arguing that you were right and ignoring what started off as a (semi) polite correction.

:beer:


Back to the original poster.

Yes, drop brackets are the way to go. Yes, you can run them with fixed lowers and adjustable uppers. I did exactly that at 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7 and now back down to 5.75 inches of lift (after springs have settled). I went that route because I didn't want to have threads / jam nuts to drag over the rocks, but still wanted to be able to adjust my caster.

When I rebuilt my housing, I moved the upper control arm mounts forward a little to get the upper and lower lengths closer - so my pinion angle doesnt change as much during articuation now, and so I dont have my arms adjusted down to their absolute shortest setting.

Fair enough. Like you I was just trying to help. I don't know if I even seen those other posts. Sometimes I skim thru and don't read them all. Sorry for the mix up. One good thing about those teras is they don't have threads showing or jam nuts to hang up. They are tapered to so they don't hang. The brackets used to hang on everything until I went 6" of lift w/35" tires and shaved about an inch off them. Now just when I have a real extreme drop off. I miss going out. I haven't even did rocks since August when I flopped at the State Fair. To damn broke. See yuh !

 

[RCP Phx]

But a trackbar suspesion needs 3 dimensional movement.The Tera arms are some of the worst out there,they run an extremely hard urethane thats been know to rip the mounts off!Currie "nailed" it as far as "no-binding" goes followed by RE.The JKS arms are quality but still dont really address the issues.

 

[boise49ers]

But a trackbar suspesion needs 3 dimensional movement.The Tera arms are some of the worst out there,they run an extremely hard urethane thats been know to rip the mounts off!Currie "nailed" it as far as "no-binding" goes followed by RE.The JKS arms are quality but still dont really address the issues.

Mine are reinforced top and bottom. I ripped one off before putting in the braces. Then braced it and reinforced the brackets and welds. The bottom have JKS skids that box it in and reinforce it onto the axle on the front. No matter what Arms you use make sure you have the braces. I ran about 4 years without , but I didn't rock crawl. When I started doing rocks they lasted about 6 months until I had to get yanked off a rock backwards. You are correct they do have hard urethane bushings. I'm going to have to replace my bushing soon any way , they had to be shaved to fit in the brackets and they aren't wearing very well. I wonder if you can get a rubber bushing pressed into it ? I have to think about how I can remedie that one. I hate that part of those too.I bet some one has came up with ideas already. Research time. Thanks

Hey if you could explain the 3 dimensional movement part so I'd understand better. Link maybe ! I'm lost with what you are saying about it not addressing the issue. My front end is tight no death wobble, no issues at high speeds and it articulate real well. So I'm confused on where my problem is that I haven't noticed. I'm really not trying to be a smart ass I don't know what you are talking about. This is probably the same issue Cal was trying to bring to my attention. It is built and is a daily driver also. So hopefully you understand why I'm confused about something not working right. I just haven't noticed. Maybe it comes with time and wear on parts.
Please explainify for me Thanks !

 

[XJedi23]

It really seamed like the upper hole was nearly 1/2" off. will every thing align properly once its tightened. Also the 2 "shim" bolts were going in at about 15 degrees off horizontal. Tolerances defiantly out the window!

Thanks for the info on the DB. I am still curious if I should ^drill the holes out ^ or just attach them loose and tighten. I know a previous poster mentioned a twisted frame but my rig is a 2000 with moderate wheeling. :wierd:

 

[cal]

attach them all loose. start with the big ones and work smaller, snugging but not tightening. then go back and tighten them.