different crossmember idea

[RCP Phx]

Actually thats about the narrowest mounting Ive seen.If they both mounted to the same point there would be "ZERO" bind.Rusty's and a couple others have much wider mounting create much more "twist binding".

 

[whitneyj]

that's what I had originally intended to do, but I ended up getting a set of radius arms that I knew were way to long, but I'm dealing with that later. I eventually ended up wanting to incorporate a tranny skid all the way to a tcase skid. after some measuring, found out the arms had to be mounted on the bottom of everything and that pretty much made the decision to go the whole 9 yards.
rock monkey: how'd you get you arms so close together? cut your wedges off and grind and relocate?

 

[whitneyj]

housedivided: anything involving a 4 link calculator is quite a project. This isn't that hard. it may not look good, or be very light, until more experience comes into play, but not that difficult.
I'm also only using a 7"grinder, tape measure, drill, and a 110V welder with flux core. Not alot to work with yet . . .

 

[RCP Phx]

Does any one have any good pics of a TnT set up,there web site does not?

This is a really good thread!
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=950424

 

[RockMonkey]

RockMonkey how do you deal with the angles of the Y arms wanting to be different when the suspension articulates? Won't that twist the axle?

Yes, all radius arms try to twist the axle during articulation. That's why Bronco nerds do "wristed" radius arms, and that's why XJ nerds do a radius arm on one side, and a single upper or lower on the other side. That is why I've triangulated the radius arms toward the center. It minimizes this effect. The triangulation combined with the rubber bushing at the axle end will work together to make this suspension flex like a champ. It will have 14" coilovers and will flex enough to max out their travel.

 

[RockMonkey]

rock monkey: how'd you get you arms so close together? cut your wedges off and grind and relocate?

The wedges on the axle are stock. I cut the radius arms right at the mount (so all I had left was the "C"), and rebuilt them with 2" x .250 wall DOM tube, 1.75" x .120 wall tube, and some 1/8" plate.

 

[RockMonkey]

Actually thats about the narrowest mounting Ive seen.If they both mounted to the same point there would be "ZERO" bind.Rusty's and a couple others have much wider mounting create much more "twist binding".

They're pretty much as narrow as I could get them, and still be able to get the bolts out.

 

[RCP Phx]

Yeah,thats pretty much how I settled on mine(way before the other kits came out).As narrow and high as I could reasonably get them(bolt access does become an issue)!

Whitney,I still dont get where you plan to mount the arms and end up with any usable "up" travel?
Actually I dont recall you posting what lift height your even designing this for?

 

[whitneyj]

That's one of the things I'm working on now. I'm going to have to mount the arms behind the tcase and below the skid. . . I'm toying with the idea of cutting the extensions and drilling and tapping the solid stock extensions for a male heim to get a more reasonable mounting location. Once I finish welding up the xmember/skid I'm going to mock up some mounts and see where I can mount them that won't effect up travel. When I first drew everything up and measured everything, the arms were going to be close to clearing the tranny, not sure where everything is going to end up being. I'm pushing my front axle forward about 3" so that'll help.

 

[winkosmosis]

Yes, all radius arms try to twist the axle during articulation. That's why Bronco nerds do "wristed" radius arms, and that's why XJ nerds do a radius arm on one side, and a single upper or lower on the other side. That is why I've triangulated the radius arms toward the center. It minimizes this effect. The triangulation combined with the rubber bushing at the axle end will work together to make this suspension flex like a champ. It will have 14" coilovers and will flex enough to max out their travel.

Gotcha. Never thought about it before. If both arms attached at one chassis ball. it would be a triangular link and the twist wouldn't matter.

Is there any downside?? I can't visualize any

 

[RCP Phx]

Gotcha. Never thought about it before. If both arms attached at one chassis ball. it would be a triangular link and the twist wouldn't matter.
Is there any downside?? I can't visualize any

Yes,it puts a tremendous stress on the frame mount(s) and even more on the trackbar(better not be Rusty's or Rough Country's,or any simular cheap trackbar). Definately need a TB brace to help hold things in place,thats another reason why most go hydro also!

 

[RockMonkey]

Yup, what he said. The crossmember needs to be strong. Mine, as pictured, is not strong enough. It needs some additional support behind it to take the stress. Once it's all put together, with everything built properly to take the stress, it will perform better than most suspensions that are possible to fit in the front of a Cherokee. The track bar is critical. It won't work at all without it, and it takes ALL the stress of centering the axle. The track bar mount is built to take the stress, and the track bar will be too, once I build it. Here's a pic of the track bar mount. The frame is plated on the both sides and the bottom.

 

[RCP Phx]

Yup, what he said. The crossmember needs to be strong. Mine, as pictured, is not strong enough. It needs some additional support behind it to take the stress. Once it's all put together, with everything built properly to take the stress, it will perform better than most suspensions that are possible to fit in the front of a Cherokee. The track bar is critical. It won't work at all without it, and it takes ALL the stress of centering the axle. The track bar mount is built to take the stress, and the track bar will be too, once I build it. Here's a pic of the track bar mount. The frame is plated on the both sides and the bottom.

Thats really nice work,we did all the same(simular) "cheese" work on my sons SAS conv(toyota)!! I LOVE DRILLING HOLES!!!
I would still tie it back to the other side like RE(I think you can handle it!!)

 

[RockMonkey]

This thing ties both sides together nicely.

Dimpled holes are the coolest. party1:

 

[RCP Phx]

This thing ties both sides together nicely.

Dimpled holes are the coolest. party1:

Yeap,just saw your other thread,nice work.Back at you!
http://hometown.aol.com/vwfreak59/page3.html

 

[whitneyj]

So what do you guys think about using a dimple die to lighten my skidplate? think it'd be worth it?

 

[RCP Phx]

1-You cant lighten a tank
2-Not the best idea on skid plates

 

[whitneyj]

So, I'm a tank?

 

[RockMonkey]

So what do you guys think about using a dimple die to lighten my skidplate? think it'd be worth it?

Dimple dies do make parts lighter (since you are removing material), but the real advantage to using flared holes is that they actually add strength, by making a two-dimensional part three-dimensional. I would not use dimpled holes in a skid plate for a couple reasons. You want your skid plate to be smooth and flat. Putting holes in it will give rocks a place to hang you up. Also, you want your center of gravity as low as possible, so if there is one place on your chassis that a little extra weight doesn't hurt you, it's the skid plate. I make my skid plates as thin as possible while still being strong enough to do the job, as flat as possible, and as smooth as possible. YMMV.

 

[whitneyj]

The only thing I'm concerned with is strength right now. . . It's all 1/4" plate, but flat with the ribbing welded in for support, I'm just not sure it's enough for the radius arms mounted to it also. I'll probably end up running some 1/2" plate under the tcase, to recess the bolts, and to beef up where the mounts will be. If you don't mind me asking a couple questions about your build, what angle are your arms at? I'm was thinking of quietly stealing your idea. Also, what's the distance from your front spring hanger to the center of your front axle? I lost my measurements on the location of the stock front axle and don't want to push it to far forward. I was shooting for about 3" forward. thoughts? help. . .