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Desperate: No start

Does it have a 'light ring' around the ignition key lock. That is a Jeep.

And I used to work for pepboys, I quit after getting into these type of service arguements with the shop manager.
 
I feel your frustration!! I know some fellow Jeepers in the Richmond area that might be of some help. If interested send me a PM and I will give you the link to their forum. Good bunch a guys over there!

~Michelle~
 
Could use a good homecooked meal and some beer BUT like so many others I am long distance!! If ya are ever in Crawlorado for some fun holla at me! Good luck on your repair!!
 
94 has the GM Column.

It sounds like the fuel pump to me. They are pretty easy to replace. The last one I did took about 45 minutes from start to finish. You only need a few basic tools and either a brass or wood punch (to not cause spark and blow up).
In a 94, the pump is on the rear of the tank and the tank does not need to be dropped. There are two hoses and some wires that have to be disconnected and then you just have to beat the retaining ring around until it lets the pump come free. At that time the whole assembly will come out of the tank...just be gentle not to break it---and don't lay where the gas will go in your eyes. You will have to take the pump out of the assembly and you also need to replace the "sock" (the mesh thing on the bottom that filters the crap before it goes through the pump). I have learned from experience you should replace the large o-ring that goes between the tank and pump assembly also (I lost alot of gas because I didn't...it was about $5 from the dealer). Then just put the assembly back in the tank and get it to seat in the correct location and replace the lock ring, hoses and wires.

Good Luck!!!
 
Jess said:
In a 94, the pump is on the rear of the tank and the tank does not need to be dropped. There are two hoses and some wires that have to be disconnected and then you just have to beat the retaining ring around until it lets the pump come free.
Click to expand...

This is what you're talking about right? On the front side of the tank where the hoses and retaining ring are. Beat on the ring with a non-sparking object (brass or wood) till it rotates and the pump comes put.

1760084560_cc922788c0_o.jpg
 
sjkimmel99 said:
This is what you're talking about right? On the front side of the tank where the hoses and retaining ring are. Beat on the ring with a non-sparking object (brass or wood) till it rotates and the pump comes put.

1760084560_cc922788c0_o.jpg
Click to expand...

That is it! It also sometimes helps to lift the vehicle from the "frame" to allow the rear axle to droop allowing more hand/arm room to the pump.
Remember to use jack stands so it doesn't fall!!!
 
thats good news...you are making progress.... what makes you say coolant temp sensor? ....I don't think that comes into play much when trying to start up... more likely you have a problem with the CPS (crank position sensor) .... it tells the computer when to get the whole spark/ignition and fuel injection process in motion...
 
Went by today. Fuel system seems to be ok. Plenty of pressure and it ran until it just flat shut off. It ran for a good 10-15 minutes, or possiblely until it warmed up - ?? no gauges just idiot lights. No warning or stumble. Just shut off. Had a code for Coolant temp sensor voltage being off. I know of another one of these around town and it seems to be a sign of major computer probs. may need a new computer after the sensors are tested.
 
That seems pretty odd, to have an ECU failure and no codes. When it dies, do you still have the 5 volt supply to the MAP sensor?

When it dies does it still have spark, coil could be bad.

I would be pretty reluctant to blame the ECU.
 
Just thinking out loud here...So does this sound correct?... it starts right up and is running ok in open loop mode ... warms up after about 10 -15 mins...Coolant temp sensor tells ECM he is ready to run in closed loop mode...and then by your description, motor shuts down as if ECM told ASD relay to kill motor, or ECM lost ignition sense...and it leaves behind a coolant sensor DTC code in memory...
Or maybe it was just a coincidence that it died right around the time it would switch from open to closed loop...
Need more data...can the problem be reproduced if you clear the codes, cool it down, and run it again?
I hope your sensor check/test shows up something for you...maybe you can read the sensor voltage as it warms up to see what its sending back to the ECM...

McQue
 
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