dana 60 not just broke, it broke-broke!

[C-ROK]

I would be very wary of using this method. Unless you run a jig rod and pucks through the carrier bearings and through the ends, you will NOT get the ends aligned perfectly. You will likely end up with a nastly wobble that will kill your hub and carrier bearings. I did a lot of research on this before I did the 14B ends on my 9" and I did it right with the help of a local guy (CJ66Dean on PBB).

SeanP

Does this imply then that the tubes are not aligned to begin with?

I wouldn't think you would get a wobble unles the shaft itself is bent. I could see getting premature carrier and wheel bearing failure if the housing ends are misaligned but not an actual wheel wobble.

For the jig you're talking about, would that just be a turned shaft to run through the carrier bearings and wheel bearings? I like the idea and it's pretty simple too.
I would still do the turned internal tube sleeve for additional strength at the joint, rather than just a butt weld.

 

[CRASH]

Most of the aftermarket bearing cups fit inside the existing tube, so you wouldn't have to butt weld.

If you want FF, cut the last 2 inches off of a FF axle, turn it down on a lathe until you get to the proper diameter, and insert it into your 9 inch tube.

CRASH

 

[Beezil]

that thread is pretty neat.

reading that helps me understand where you guys are going with this....

makes what you were saying crok crystal clear.....

but it leaves me with more questions than direction.....

so, i'll probably let that stuff bounce around in my head, I've already thrown a stock shaft back in, so I'm ready to go.....

I don't know if I'm ready to start tearing into the axle right now.

gotta get some more seat time.

 

[CRASH]

You know, you could always just get some 30 spline alloys.

35% to 40% stronger than stock, you get to keep your TAD and housing as it is.

Dutchman makes alloy FF shafts.

CRASH

 

[C-ROK]

You know, you could always just get some 30 spline alloys.

35% to 40% stronger than stock, you get to keep your TAD and housing as it is.

Dutchman makes alloy FF shafts.

CRASH

Stop being silly CRASH :twak: :twak: :twak:

If you're going to buy new shafts, go 35 spline and be 100% stronger. Alloy smalloy. Go big or go.....

His TAD is welded spiders. Not much investment there. A 35 spline 60 spool is like $150 and you could probably get an open 35 spline carrier (to weld up again) for near free.

On the bearing cups: I knew that new cups are made to insert but I'm looking at using the whole tube stub end cut off a used housing.

I do plan on doing this exact mod at sometime. When I snapped my old 9 housing I cut the ends off and saved them. I figure I can pick up an empty 60 housing for $100 or less; shave the bottom of the housing, get an ARB and 35 spline shafts. I can re-use my existing discs and be complete at somewhere near $1000.
I'm also hoping I can recover most of that by selling my existing 9 and 40 spline shafts.

Locker and gear stuff aside, it's actually a real cheap way to get a semifloating 35 spline 60.

 

[CRASH]

Gawd, I thought he had a real TAD in there.

It's all starting to become clear to me.....

...the beauty is only skin deep and the emporer has no clothes.


CRASH.......mixing metaphors is fun.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Very good info in that thread, it pretty much covers it.

One thing to consider is that some are building trail only rigs (always trailered) and some will drive to the trail. A different level of safety is required with each. Personally, I don't think .20" spindle wall thickness is enough for the long haul, but it might work in most cases depending on the usage.

The info about some D60's and 14 bolts having a 2.25" inner bearing diameter makes a lot of sense. That makes the inner spindle thickness .325" and the outer thickness .20", definitely better than .20" all the way through.

But a d70 with 1.5in shafts like mine has the same outer diamater at the slindle on a dana 60. The d70 is a reliable axle, the spindle is not a concern of mine..

boreing out a 1.4in ID d60 spindle makes the spindle as thin as a d70. Yea a d70 is larger/stronger in other ways.. but the spindle should not be your issue..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/D70/D70.htm

If I was gonna do it on a budget Id probibly try the hand adjustable reimer, or find a shop to drill it out with a large bit. I would not cut the spindles off, machine them, then re-weld them on. I trust my welds but would avoid doing that...

have fun.